Smifffy
Statesman
Rock'n'Roll!
Posts: 943
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Post by Smifffy on Feb 6, 2011 9:43:05 GMT
Very, very nice.
Smifffy
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Feb 6, 2011 10:01:13 GMT
Very good progress and fine quality of work , I am sure the result will be great and satisfying .
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2011 11:00:01 GMT
Looking first rate Jim...  Pete |
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Post by ukjimoo on Feb 20, 2011 22:10:24 GMT
Hi all, just a few more photos to share... In case of any major problems with our design, we have decided to only build up one chassis from here on, at least until it is running ok on compressed air.  A pair of split big end bearings being squared up in the milling vice. These were sliced from round bar and faced to correct width. Then they were cut in half and mating faces machined flat before soldering together. The bore was produced in the lathe to fit the crank journal and the solder released before proceeding with the squaring up as shown.  Here are the completed big end bearings assembled in their straps. The straps were milled from solid Mild Steel.  |
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Post by ukjimoo on Jun 5, 2011 20:41:10 GMT
Hi all Its been a while so i thought i would post an update.... 2 sets of assembled con rods  2 sets of crossheads  The eccentrics now complete with fork ends     I think its nearly time to lock the wheels to the axles for good! I was wondering what Loctite other builders use for this. I was thinking that 638 High Strength Retainer would be good as it is virtually permenant - no chance of a wheel coming adrift there! Then i thought what if i need to remove a wheel to change the axle bushes? Maybe 641 Bearing Fit would be better because the wheels could be pulled off with a puller. But is this enough strength??? I would be grateful for any suggetions on this. Cheers Jim |
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Post by Deleted on Jun 5, 2011 21:27:31 GMT
Hi Jim Looks fantastic... Can't speak from any experience yet but can say that I've used 638 for my tender wheels and will also use it for the loco too. Having said that though I'll probably follow others who do have the necessary experience and pin the main wheels for safety. IIRC 638's bond can be broken by heating to around 250c Great work Pete |
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Post by ukjimoo on Jun 5, 2011 21:38:48 GMT
Thanks Pete Unfortunately i dont think heating to 250degC will be an option in our case as we have used a fair amount of high build primer on the parts of the wheels that are left 'as cast' to try and get as good a finish as possible  Jim |
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Post by welshy on Jun 5, 2011 23:11:34 GMT
Yes 638 can be broken down by heating to 250C. It gives a very strong joint. If you are carefull you could be able to heat the joint abd break it down before it did too much damage to the filler and paint.
Mike
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Smifffy
Statesman
Rock'n'Roll!
Posts: 943
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Post by Smifffy on Jun 6, 2011 9:32:31 GMT
Lovely work!
I've had my wheels on and off their axles more times than I care to mention, but with heat as mentioned above.
Cheers
Smifffy
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Post by ukjimoo on Jun 7, 2011 7:04:08 GMT
Thanks all
Smiffy, was that with 638?
Cheers
Jim
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Post by ianmcgoo22 on Aug 19, 2018 4:37:09 GMT
Hi guys,
Sorry to drag up this old thread, but I'm a new member from Canada and I also hope to build a 7 1/4" gauge Jinty. Does anyone know if UKjimoo ever finished these two models? They look very well built and I'd love to see pictures of the complete engines. Thanks!
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Post by Deleted on Aug 19, 2018 7:11:01 GMT
Jim's last visit to the forum was 4 years after his last post here and that was 3 years ago from now so 7 years in all....alas I don't know what happened? I hope he finished the loco and is doing well but have to accept that few of us in this hobby are spring chickens..perhaps someone else may know the facts?
Pete
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Post by ianmcgoo22 on Aug 19, 2018 14:28:24 GMT
Thanks Pete, I too hope that someone knows Jim. And I spent half of last night on your Flying Scotsman build thread. Beautiful! However, I'd better start with something smaller! |
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