Chassis Pics

[ron]

Thought I'd post a couple of 'progress so far' pictures.
The first one is the wheels getting quartered using the coupling rod blanks

The secong is the coupling rods machines and fitted c/w bronze bushes, I have put a half nut to secure the rod on the trailing wheel as it doesn't specify anything on the drawing but it doesn't really look right, what is the normal way of doing this, the crankpin is threaded 5/16" as per drawing. I've also left the coupling rods 'as machined', is it convention to leave them like this or should they be polished up with emery?

I'm pleased with the result, a bit tedious getting there but it all turns over smoothly with no binding or undue stiffness.
Ron

[baggo]

Looking good Ron

A bit of cleaning up with emery, or even easier, a drum sander in a mini drill to remove the laser marks on the rods would improve the appearance. A few photos of Simplex show a half nut on the trailing crank pin but a more 'realistic' approach is to machine a special 'top hat' shaped nut with two spanner flats milled on it:



In full size, the nut would be drilled through the flats and the crankpin and a taper pin fitted to prevent it coming undone.

John

[spurley]

Hi Ron

That looks fine to me, I agree with 'Baggo' a light rub with emery to remove any machining marks will do the job. I think Chris Vine has recommended 'Scotch Bright' to produce a satin type finish which looks quite lifelike.

Just a point looking at the pictures you've posted; is there a knuckle joint on the centre axle? It is possible that the rods are forked and I cannot see it? The knuckle joint is essential to allow each axle to move independantly of each other, without such a joint there is a very good chance of a derailment or the rods bending.

Cheers

Brian

[ron]

Hi John
That nut with two flats looks better I'll try something like that.
Hi Brian
Yes, there is a knuckle joint on the centre axle, Mr Evans claims this is easier than the conventional method of a joint outwith the main crankpin, can't say I found it particularly easy but then again I've never made a conventional one!
Ron

[Laurie_B]

Looking very good indeed Ron.I like your rolling road set up too.
I'd agree with the others,a 'satin' finish is probably best,bit of draw-filing and emery should be ok.I sometimes use some steel wire wool rather than emery paper,might be worth a try in the latter stages.
Look forward to seeing more pics.

[ron]

Hi Laurie
The rolling road cost about a tenner, pack of bearings from Ebay and a bit of angle iron from B&Q, the other bits and pieces I already had, some sort of home made spit would be very handy as well, it's getting a bit heavy for manhandling.
Ron

[Steve M. W]

Nice work ron please keep the pics coming.

Steve

[starspider]

Very nice Ron , I also liked your rolling road. please keep the pic's coming

[ron]

A couple of pictures of the motion brackets, I took Jo's advice and avoided the cast ones, these are fabricated from Malcolm High's lazer cut parts, even using the laser cut parts there is a full afternoon of fairly tedious work in each.

[Shawki Shlemon]

You doing well Ron , keep up the good work and enlighten us . Looking forward for more soon .

[jones]

Great stuff Ron, inspirational

[ron]

A little anomaly I've come across, on the original drawings the distance from pivot centre on the link bracket to the face of the motion plate is shown as 1 3/32" on the modern drawings it is shown as 1 1/16", the reason isn't mentioned in the articles 'Improvements to Simplex', I've made mine to the modern drawing, I suppose if there is a problem I can fit 1/32" packers.
Ron

[spurley]

Hi Ron

Sorry to get a little out of phase with the postings, I must say how jealous I am of your workshop! It looks lovely, all wallpapered and the glass fronted display case is very posh ;D ;D The benchtop is one of the cleanest I've seen

Cheers

Brian

[ron]

Brian
I've got what Noddy wants [general chat] a very tolerant wife
Ron

[ron]

A picture of progress so far,haven't been doing so much recently due to the usual summer distractions but there has been a bit of work done, the combination levers and anchor links are made as well.
Picture taken with my new all singing, dancing digi camera which is giving me a sore head trying to remember how to work it, as inevitably everything is different from my old one
Ron

[Shawki Shlemon]

All very nice . One point ,not a criticism just what I always was told and done is making the eccentric rod in walchart valve gear last to get the correct length .( I must admit I made it first on the KING as it is the only way one can get access to it ).Good luck .

[ron]

Hi Shawki
Unfortunately I found that out after I had made them
The arc of the expansion links looks to be fairly equal so fingers crossed, if not I'll just need to do them again.
Ron

[ron]

James
How about a picture of it?
Ron

[spurley]

Hi James

Firstly you will need to place any photographs you wish to post on a host website, I use photobucket like many others on here. Free to use just create an acount for yourself. Then you need to copy the URL of the picture you wish to post, use 'ctrl c' for ease, then when you come to write the message you will notice an icon above the 'smileys'which looks like a picture 4th from the left bottom row (it shows 'insert picture' when you hover your cursor over it). When you click it you get two sets of square brackets []with img in each. Simply place your cursor between the two sets of brackets and then paste the URL in between, use 'ctrl v'. If you want to check that it's done, use the Preview button below the message pane and you should see your message.

Hope this helps?

Cheers

Brian

[14xx]

could some let me have the web address for Malcolm High's lazer cut parts