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Post by Deleted on Jan 2, 2011 21:06:50 GMT
Pic117 The pins where done as pairs, one piece of brass bar cut over-length with the brass rods( used earlier to space the door hinges) silver soldered on each end. The pic shows a simple jig spacing the hinges at their correct positions holding them against the tender. These where then soldered on taking care not to let heat get to the locker doors. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Jan 2, 2011 21:10:48 GMT
Pic118 The pin bar was then cut, reversed in jig and then the other side was done, here both doors are tried in place. Later I'll give the effected area a good clean and ensure the doors hang correctly. So that's one extra bit done, now where next?...... :-) Pete Attachments:
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Post by drjohn on Jan 3, 2011 8:04:46 GMT
You don't half move along Pete - I wish I had a 10th of your enthusiasm and energy.
DJ
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2011 12:44:19 GMT
I just received in the post a belated Xmas present "The World's Most Famous Steam Locomotive, Flying Scotsman" I'll digest it's full contents later but it has fantastic photo's with one in particular being a god send. Theres a very clear photo of the A1 cab right hand drive which is how I wish to build her, with some help from another forum it looks like I will have to build her as she was in late 1938/39. This seems to be the only era when she had the non-corridor high sided tender and still in LNER green. Early 1938 she still had the corridor tender and when war broke out she was painted black. Now I still need to clear something else up that maybe someone here may be able to help with. The Banjo dome fitted to the A3's, I need to make sure that only the A3's had this and not the A1's that had been modified. What I mean is you have the A1's, the modified A1's and then all were converted to A3's ,was the Banjo fitted only at full A3 status or perhaps at modified A1 status. Basically I need to know if Flying Scotsmans banjo dome was fitted before being converted to an A3 in 1947? Sorry for the long winded way of trying to explain myself...  Pete |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2011 15:27:54 GMT
I thought I would share this picture of the A1 backhead with you guys, it may be of help to anyone else building an early A1. The picture is credited to P N Townend collection, no mention of copyright so I'm hoping it's ok to show it. Anyway this will be how mine should look, I'll give this to the boiler maker when I get there for reference as I intend to replicate it in it's entirety . Naturally some items will be dummies and I need to research the placement of the items near the roof due to the cab being lowered after this picture was taken. BTW according to the books Chronology section the FS wasn't painted black until it's general repair at Doncaster 27 February- 3 April 1943, so that now gives me a window of 5 years. Although she was converted to A3 early 1947 the banjo isn't mentioned till 1948 and she wasn't converted to right hand drive till early 1954. Good fun this R&D stuff isn't it.... Pete Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2011 17:57:20 GMT
Hi Pete
Your work so far looks fantastic, and you seem to be making rapid progress. I enjoy your updates, all inspiring stuff, unfortunately my workshop time is zero at the moment, as I am busy at work and have a 3 week old baby to keep me busy!
As regards FS, I don't think the banjo dome was introduced until the later batch of A3's. As far as I know no A1 boiler was fitted with a banjo. I will have a look through the books that I have to try and comfirm this 100%.
Regards
Trevor
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2011 18:13:32 GMT
Hi Trevor
Good to see you, a 3 week old baby?.. Wow you'll be very busy then, congratulations mate.
Thanks for those kind words on my build, a lot of it is due to your help with those photo's for which I am very grateful.
Regarding the Banjo , yes I also believe it was only on A3's but always good to check.
Again Thankyou for all your help, it's much appreciated.
Pete
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2011 18:28:18 GMT
Hi Pete
The first A3's were built in 1928, the banjo dome was introduced with a new batch of A3's in 1934. Once the A3 boilers had been introduced there wouldn't have been any new A1 boilers built, so no A1 boiler would have had a banjo dome.
I think you can be sure that FS didn't have a banjo dome until it was rebuilt as an A3 in 1947. FS had a corridor tender between April 1928 and October1936. I have a picture taken in spring 1938 when she was still an A1, but with a GNR tender. Not sure when she got the non corridor high side tender.
Hope this helps
Trevor
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Post by Deleted on Jan 5, 2011 18:50:53 GMT
Thanks Trevor Yes the info I have is that she had GNR tender No.5290 in 1936, in 1938 she had high sided streamlined non-corridor tender (as I've built) No.5640 which remained with her through out her BR days until 1963 when she went back to a 1928 corridor tender No.5325. I've been busy just as much with R&D as I have down the workshop... Pete |
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waggy
Statesman
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Post by waggy on Jan 5, 2011 20:25:59 GMT
Pete, It sounds as though the A1 & A3's are very much like the Duchess pacifics, all the same apart from those that are different!!! Grrrrr. Waggy  |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2011 13:39:07 GMT
Pic119 Just one picture for today, mind you there was a fair bit of work involved getting it. First all the bits and pieces had to be taken off, then the body had to be thoroughly cleaned. After that I gave it the first coat of etch primer, then some filling, more primer and then a light sanding. I then masked up and gave the underside and coal bunker area a base coat of satin black. That will probably be it as far as painting on the body is concerned, I will do the various top coats once the loco is ready together using Precision enamels. However the Chassis will be painted fully as soon as it's ready, same goes for the wheels. Hopefully later today I'll seal the tank using petseal, I've not used this product before so any tips would be much appreciated. Also how long should I expect petseal to take to cure, I ask as I'm not a young man anymore and an 8 wheeled tender body in 5" gauge is a fair lump to be continually twisting around while waiting for it to set. Oh and yes I do have an engine stand but no I can't use it to help as it currently has my car engine attached to it where it will probably remain for many months yet....  Pete Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2011 14:20:27 GMT
Pete
I can see that you've taken Chris Vine's advice and adopted a 'Make to Paint' approach! You don't want to rub paint down around a 3/64 rivet.....
JB
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2011 14:49:17 GMT
Spot on JB, I shall be taking a lot of Chris's advice on board during this build. Another thing that is on the list is to build a good spray booth, not such a big deal when using primer but for top coats a must. I also need to fabricate a wheel jig and suitable stands for both the loco and tender to fit my engine stand, when it's free....:-)
Pete
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pondok
Part of the e-furniture
My 5" gauge SAR class 15F
Posts: 359
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Post by pondok on Jan 7, 2011 15:51:14 GMT
hi Pete, may I ask where you got the display track from? if it was from a supplier, could you let me know who? I would ideally like to make one but time is very short right now so would consider buying or commissioning one just like yours. It is in fact for 3.5" gauge but would also need to be around 6'6" long
thanks, andy
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2011 16:48:09 GMT
Hi Andy I built the display track, I used a PNP display kit for the rails and sleepers although I didn't build it according to the instructions. PNP kits have small plates to set the gauge which fit into holes under the rails so not seen. I used those holes as a place to screw the track securely to the boards and thus avoid having any sign of how the track is fixed to the board, gauge was then measured manually and set. The board itself is 3/4" timber planks screwed to a 2"x2" frame. Architrave was then mitred and fixed to the sides leaving a recess at the top for ballast. Everything was glued during this process. The ballast is fine gravel that's used for Bonzai trees, I did some research first to determine size and type and my chosen gravel fitted perfectly. Colour is a light grey with what I can best describe as a hint of pink and it has sharp edges just like the real thing. After that is was a case of painting and weathering, I haven't finished that part yet but will do soon. BTW it's very heavy, had to be since it will have to support 220lbs, it's very strong and can be stood up on end or even upside down without loosing any ballast which is well and truly secured with strong PVA, nearly 5ltrs in fact. Funny you ask about this Andy as I have been asked about building some to commission. Perhaps I should, although I have to say even building one for myself wasn't cheap. Having said that if anyone is interested in such a thing PM me with details of what you need and maybe while I'm not building real miniature sets for films I could earn a little doing something like this.. Pete |
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6233
Hi-poster
Posts: 156
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Post by 6233 on Jan 7, 2011 17:41:38 GMT
Hi Pete, the tender looks first class.
As you have built it out of brass and soldered all the joints there is no need to seal the inside of the tank.
Have you fitted the water valves for the injector feeds as I can't see any handles on the front of the tender?
Mark
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Post by Deleted on Jan 7, 2011 18:00:58 GMT
Hi Mark
Haven't got that far yet, will do the plumbing once I've finished the brakes although I will probably make the water valve and hand brake assemblies at some point during that.
Pete
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Post by Jim on Jan 7, 2011 18:46:06 GMT
Very nice work Pete, very nice indeed.
Jim
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Post by Deleted on Jan 8, 2011 12:12:44 GMT
Pic120 Last night I sealed the tank using Petseal as recommended which went without any problems. I didn't realise that it was so similar to Resin A which I have a lot of experience with ( building such things as 30' stealth boats and 50' submarines ), hence why no problems using it I guess. Anyway this morning I did a water test and I'm happy to report no leaks except where it's supposed to at the water gauge outlet as shown in the photo. Today I'll spend time cleaning out the various holes that where taped over for the sealant process. Then I'll put the various bits and pieces back on once painted, for safety more than anything else, will stop me loosing anything lol. Then I can get back to some engineering, I don't consider construction of the body as engineering, more like..... well bodywork.....:-) Pete Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2011 15:17:56 GMT
Before I move back to the chassis I thought I'd add two pictures of progress so far with the body once all the bits were put back on. Pic121 View from the rear, note none of the bolts have been primed as these will be changed for stainless later. Attachments:
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