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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2011 15:25:43 GMT
Pic122 Front view , there is still a lot if work to do here such as upper door clasp, handbrake assembly, water valve assemblies , water level gauge, various piping and I also need to do some negatives for the photo etching of a number of plaques giving water levels at various heights on the front locker panel. Not to much to do then....  Anyway before I vet started on all of that I'll return to the chassis probably starting with the oil trays which still need there oil blocks etc fabricating. Back soon guys.. Pete Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2011 20:25:46 GMT
View from the rear, note none of the bolts have been primed as these will be changed for stainless later. Were you trying to prime them when the uncamouflaged kamikaze plane struck?!? JB |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2011 20:43:55 GMT
ahh.. yes JB it was a close call but luckily it missed, BTW thats my sons powered glider, he learnt to fly on that a good few years ago now... BTW does anyone know why the pictures haven't loaded up directly.. is there a limit on each thread or something? Pete |
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pondok
Part of the e-furniture
My 5" gauge SAR class 15F
Posts: 359
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Post by pondok on Jan 10, 2011 16:09:30 GMT
Hi Pete, I was reading the whole thread to pass the time at work (I'm sure no-one here shares my hobby), and very interesting it is. A good lesson to others like me who are not methodical enough. I spotted this: "Pic48 Here is something that I later changed, I had planned to have the water filler top plate removable as can been seen by the temporary hex head bolts put in place( these would have been changed to counter sunk later once I had some). Of course once I had rolled the sides I could see a panel this size would never be able to slide out, I originally planned to have this removable in case it needed a hand pump later. It has now been brazed into place taking Don at his word when he says to quote: a hand pump on a loco this size is undignified and with two injectors fitted if they both pack up then maybe so should the builder? Who am I to argue I know little of these things but I do wonder just how you get water in the boiler to start with, perhaps someone can explain the workings of this just for my peace of mind... Pete" There does seem to be a bit of a debate between those who insist on a manual means of getting water in and those who see injectors as being reliable enough to do away with the traditional method. I admit I am more in the latter camp, as my two injectors have never failed once in the last 5 years, just as well too as there is no other means. I've no idea whether it's just the injectors themselves being very good or whether it's my habit of pouring a sachet of the liquid "oust" kettle descaler into the tender each and every time I fill it at the beginning of the running day. I fancy it helps to keep the boiler clean too but as I have no real way of getting a good look in there other than what you can see through the dome (looks ok to me), I really don't know. Never had any problems with priming either. I also squirt WD40 through the injectors after every run so maybe that helps too, but as I've never once had one not pick up first time (barring low tender water!), and so never had to remove them for cleaning etc, I'll not be changing my method any time soon.... As for filling the boiler, I had a blowdown valve pipe modified with a threaded pipe nipple for a piece of tube with various rubber sections to adapt to different clubs' sizes of steaming bay water supply nozzles. Very good when their mains pressure is good. Looking forward to the next instalments.. cheers andy |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2011 16:40:50 GMT
Hi Andy thanks for the info and taking the time to pass it on. Yes there does seem to be some debate on this subject and I'm too new at this to make much comment than I already have. Having said that others on the forum have also given me their views on this which agree with your own. My gut instinct is to build as to Don's words and music ,ie no handpump. So that is what a shall do and I intend to make my own injectors and learn from that how to make them work in a reliable manner. I'm not one to be afraid to tackle something new, after all my daytime job basically requires me to be able to build prototypes each and every day at a very fast speed and they have to work first time. I guess after many years living in that type of environment you get to trust all will be ok and just go for it. Hasn't let me down so far, again thanks for the input, very much appreciated... Pete |
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Andrew C
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 447
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Post by Andrew C on Jan 11, 2011 17:19:02 GMT
Pete A really inspiring peice of work. You were asking about the Banjo on a Gresley A1. Not as far as I can see. Scotsman is recorded as being reboilered to A3 and therefore getting the banjo dome in Jan 47. This is from an interesting book called East Coast Pacifics at work by Peter Townend. He was the shed forman at top shed (Kings Cross) for many years. isbn 0 7110 1170 2 It was published by Ian Allan in 1982. Some of the illistrations in the book were produced in the Perminant way office at Kings Cross when I was working there. we were all steam mad to some extent! They were fun times Keep up the good work! Andrew |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 11, 2011 18:24:49 GMT
Thanks for the info Andrew and many thanks for the kind words of encouragement. Sometimes I wish I was a little older so that I too could have fond memories of the steam days, an era that alas shall never be seen again. My favourite point in history is the golden age of steam during the 20's and 30's. It must have been a wonderful time to be alive and not just for trains ... Pete |
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Andrew C
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 447
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Post by Andrew C on Jan 11, 2011 23:03:39 GMT
I was only 12 at the end of steam so missed most of the fun. I joined BR in the 80s. But was surrounded in kings cross by photos of A4, A3 etc. Peter Townend was a regular visitor while he was writing his book and we had the details of the A3 banjo regulator around and other parts for weeks.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2011 20:39:36 GMT
Good day gents Well I've been busy with the oil blocks over the last few days which are reasonably simple little things but hard work due to their size, or at least I found do with my big fingers.. Pic123 This shows a length of 7mm square steel bar held in the angle vice having the face that the oil hole goes into being machined. According to Don's words and music this should be 5/16th square brass bar. Well first of I didn't have any of this in stock but also scaling from the pictures that I have of Mallards tender axle boxes this would have stuck out to far so I took the decision to use the smaller size in steel. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2011 20:44:37 GMT
Pic124 Here I have already silver soldered a length of suitable copper tube to the 7mm steel for the hinge. Also ready to be soldered is the brass strip and copper tube which will form the oil way block hinge. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2011 20:45:19 GMT
Pete, I have found that most of the sizes encountered on my drawings are OTT, and a reduction usually means less work, and a bonus: it often looks better!
JB
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2011 20:48:45 GMT
Pic125 Here the oil way block has been cut to size and is now having the oil hole drilled. Due to the angle this was given a good hit with hammer and punch for the drill bit to get a good purchase on the angled face. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2011 20:51:24 GMT
Pic126 Finished block now filed to shaped, sanded and then polished. Next job is the lid and then to solder each block to it's oil tray. Pete Attachments:
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6233
Hi-poster
Posts: 156
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Post by 6233 on Jan 14, 2011 21:05:21 GMT
Hi Pete,
As always this is first class again. I plan to have Tornado finished for the end of Sep 2014, she will then go on show at the Midlands ME show before running. so you have a date, both at the show.
Mark
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2011 21:15:21 GMT
Hmmm 2014? Well you never know Mark but so far I've been doing reasonably straight forward stuff, the loco itself I anticipate to be a lot tougher due mainly to it being so alien to me in as far as it's workings is concerned. Naturally I will take things at a slower pace to avoid costly mistakes, well that's the plan anyway...:-)
Pete
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6233
Hi-poster
Posts: 156
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Post by 6233 on Jan 14, 2011 21:19:34 GMT
Looking at your work Pete you have nothing to worry about on the loco. I would say the most important bit is setting the crank pins and the crank axle, after this you will have no problems trust me. My friends first Model Engineering project was a Duchess, took him 11 years. His second was a Princess and this involved doing all the drawings as well, took 6 years.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2011 21:22:00 GMT
Hey JB, sorry mate I hadn't noticed your post in between my uploads. Yes I've found things to be a little on the large size a number of times now. The general rule of thumb within the film industry and modelling in general is to make things smaller as they look more to scale in front of a camera.
Pete
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Smifffy
Statesman
Rock'n'Roll!
Posts: 943
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Post by Smifffy on Jan 14, 2011 21:34:56 GMT
Nah Greenglade, that's not the way to go! Dive straight in, work fast. You'll get to make everything at least twice and get twice as much experience and twice as much fun ;D
Works for me.......
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2011 21:35:04 GMT
The general rule of thumb within the film industry and modelling in general is to make things smaller as they look more to scale in front of a camera. Pete Unless Jordan and her accoutrements are concerned of course......! |
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Post by Deleted on Jan 14, 2011 21:35:49 GMT
Thanks for the words of encouragement Mark, I'll keep plodding along. When I first started this project I was of the mind that this would be a one off due to how much work is involved. Having got this far I realise it's not that bad and I'm already thinking ahead for some Gresley teak coaches to go with the FS.
Who knows what I'll do after that...:-)
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