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Post by Deleted on Feb 25, 2018 21:13:21 GMT
Hi Bryn
Thanks for thinking of me, I haven't decided on which direction to take re the boiler yet..I'm still a way off the boiler stage so have put it to the back of my mind for now.
kind regards
Pete
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2018 11:15:18 GMT
Good day everyone After chatting to Adam on FB this morning I felt guilty about making no progress on 4472 since Xmas, very bad of me so need to get things moving again. All being well I'll be back in action this Thursday once my 'grandfather' duties for this week have finished. Hopefully I'll start posting progress soon after, posting this here will give me the kick that I clearly need to get on. I have made a start this morning, I've removed the dust covers from 4472 and cleared the bench ready for work, first job will be to remove the saddle from the smokebox (IIRC 56 8BA bolts) and machine the steam openings ready for the middle cylinder, basically, continuing from where I left off before Xmas.. and look i even have a picture to show that I have done as described.... expect an update soon chaps....  cheers...  Pete |
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Post by springcrocus on Apr 9, 2018 18:33:50 GMT
Seems we've both been gone for about the same amount of time, must be something to do with the weather. Welcome back, Pete.
Regards, Steve
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Post by Deleted on Apr 9, 2018 18:38:48 GMT
Thank's Steve....yes..I read your post earlier and thought...ahh it's not just me.... Pete |
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Lisa
Statesman
Posts: 806 
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Post by Lisa on Apr 10, 2018 7:27:59 GMT
At the other end of the thermometer is me, I also took a break from the workshop at the start of the year, but in my case because it was too hot!
Good time of year for plotting indoors it seems, no matter where you are.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2018 16:26:39 GMT
Afternoon guys... Well i didn't manage to get back onto 4472 when planned, the joys of owning a classic car got in the way yet again. Anyway I have now spent a little time and feeling my way back into things...I have had a change of plan though and will explain. As you may recall I was in the middle of the center cylinder having completed the main bore and facing of the 6 faces, this left boring of the steam chest and copious amount of 6BA mounting holes to complete the biggest operations involved. I have also turned up the end cover for the main bore although not drilled any of the mounting holes yet. There's of course lot's of smaller jobs to do but this should give those in the know a rough idea of what stage I am at. I thought first job would be the mounting holes which would then allow me to work out the positions in the smokebox saddle for the steam exhaust/outlet holes and the area which needs cutting away to allow for these two to meet. On looking at this it's clear that the cylinder sits lower than i had first thought, in fact lower than what it seems to show in the model photo's shown in Don's 'words and music' I think that i may have made reference to this before? Needless to say this is a critical part of the build what with the 2:1 gear that connects all 3 cylinders and it needs to be right. Also before I can mount the cylinder I need to remove the outside cylinder mounting flanges and also the (not yet finished, following Don's advice) outside motion brackets. I also had in mind that i want to get the frames in paint before August so that i have something a bit more advanced to show at this years Bob Todd memorial meet at the NLSME this summer. Therefore I have decided to strip the chassis down, finish off all the 'half done' jobs (lots), get the frames in paint, finish the middle cylinder with hopefully it's motion including the 2:1 gear, smokebox machined to sit above middle cylinder, fabricate the sand boxes and various plumbing, also the oil way plumbing for the main axle boxes and a 101 other small jobs that need to be done between the frames. To be honest the list is immense, far more than what i have listed here and somewhat daunting but it's got to be done and I don't want to have to take things apart again if possible, best get it over and done with now. So there may be a fair bit of activity over the next few months, how much i achieve before august is anyone's guess but I'll do what i can. I'm actually looking forward to seeing 4472 with some finished sections. Onto the little that i have done, well I have removed the smokebox, running boards, cab and front buffers. I have cut all of the permanent running board 10BA screws to length so that they are flush with the bottom of the side valance angle. I have also made note of a few of the removable 10BA screws that are used to hold the entire running board sides (single piece) in place that i wish to also make permanent fixtures, what I mean is only a few select removable screws will be actually holding the running boards in place, less than 30. The other few hundred will never need to be removed and thus the paint won't get damaged along the main outside line of screws in the future if the boards have to be removed for maintenance. All of the 8BA side valance bolts will remain removable. So only one picture to show of how far I have got but things should get fairly active again in the future updates. The cylinder needs to sit perhaps 1/4 inch or more lower than seen here, i haven't actually measured anything yet, things will be much easier to work on once i have stripped the chassis down much further. Currently it's as low as it can go due to the vacuum cylinder stay top corners getting in the way, it's no big deal to get the cylinder lower, there's plenty of space, i just need to work out exactly how much lower keeping an eye on the line up of the steam chest with the 2:1 gear stay, I haven't machined an opening in the back edge of this yet so that's yet another job that needs doing. as can be seen the buffers have been removed, I have left them in sight to show the design for anyone not familiar, these follow very closely the IIRC Spencer type sprung buffers, no springs involved here.  I should have the next update up by the weekend, a good few hours of dismantling yet to go and then I can get my head around the center cylinder's position. Or should I say i hope so... cheers Pete |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 25, 2018 16:36:26 GMT
I hadn't expected to be posting again so soon but think it may be wise to take plenty of images as I strip the chassis down as reference for when re-assembling, they will also help me find where I have put things. First up a tray of small parts, steps, mudguards, vacuum cylinder stays etc, I will also make note here for myself that I have put all of the front detail parts, running boards, buffers etc into the top 'Doncaster' draw....hopefully i'll remember but just in case it's now recorded, I just need to remember where?...  Here we have the larger sub assemblies laid out roughly in order, most of these will need breaking down for painting, I'll cover that when I reach each one in turn, there's still plenty of things to do around most of these parts before I can paint them.  Finally the chassis nearly fully stripped, this is pretty much how it will be for painting, the front buffer beam with buffer housings is far too involved to remove for painting. It would make lining of the buffer beam easier but since some of the counter sunk screws will be under the red paint I've chosen to leave in place. At this stage the chassis is much lighter and relatively easy to manipulate so shouldn't be too much of a problem, the brake trunnion bearings will also need to be removed, as will the main horn stays, I'll leave that till later. One other part to remove will be the outside motion brackets, I need these for now for the next job which will be to plot, drill and tap the mounting holes for the front sandboxes. Part of the sandbox back plate straddles the motion bracket mounting flange in a 'dogleg' type fashion so I'll need them where they are for now, well at least until tomorrow as drilling/tapping these 8BA holes will be my next job. Once that is done I'm going to go over all of the drawings to see what other holes if any might need doing. I will then go through all of the frame bolts, a good few hundred of them, trim any that need it to length and refit each in turn tight using thread lock to secure, I expect this to take me at least a day or two. I will then take a look at doing the 6BA mounting holes to be transferred to the middle cylinder. With the chassis now stripped I took a look at the middle cylinder position and it looks like it's not going to foul the vacuum cylinder bracket as I first suspected. I'm still not 100% convinced about it's position in relation to the 2:1 gear stay, still looks a little low to me but to be fair I haven't studied the drawings for the 2:1 gear much yet so will also take a close look at the linkage from the middle steam chest to the 2:1 gear itself.  So lots to keep me busy , I'll see how much I can get done by Friday evening, if I make good progress i'll give a report... Thanks for looking in guys.... Pete |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 27, 2018 16:42:16 GMT
Afternoon chaps and chapette's Well the last couple of days have been productive, I've had my hands full that's for sure. As planned I have removed most of the frames bolts, cut to length where required and secured using Loctite thread-lock, things are looking much neater. I have left the inside motion stay and expansion link brackets unlocked for now, the motion stay until I have the middle cylinder and slidebar completed and the expansion bracket until I have turned up the weighshaft trunnions which I'll do very soon along with the weighshaft itself.. With that lot taken care off I got on with the remaining holes to be drilled/tapped into the frames, this was less work than I had first thought. I spend a few hours going over Don's words and music, I've lost count how many times that I have now read through these pages... I spent most of my time reading what i considered the most likely candidates requiring mounting points, that being the gravity sanding gear, lubricators,ash pan dampers and drain cocks. The gravity sanding gear rods/pivots are all on the driver's side running board, so nothing to do there. The lubricator's seem to be driven from behind the expansion link pivot, I have no recollection of this but must have been aware as i have taken a few so close ups of the 'drive arm' for the linkage that sits behind the expansion link bracket driver's side, looks straight forward although requires a slot cut into the expansion bracket (that won't be fun) and a very close fitting between wheel and behind the expansion bracket, should be fun...I hope.. The 'ash pan' damper system seems to be all contained within the ash pan itself, so nothing to do there. The drain cocks are bowden cable operated, these will require a number of clips to secure the outer cable to the frames, I'll go through that in more in a minute. One thing that I did need to do was to finish off the mounting of the sandbox back plates to the frames, you may recall that I have already done the steam operated sand box back plate mountings which sit on the inside of the frames near the expansion link brackets. These i did using a very crude 90 degree drill so all i needed to do now was the front gravity sandboxes which sit on the outside of the frames forward of the outside motion bracket. First picture shows one of the plates so fitted, I had to remove a little metal from one of the rear mudguard brackets, one thing that's clear is it's going to be tight running the pipework from the bottom of the sandbox to the leading coupled wheel with the mudguard in place, I'll see if I can run the pipe without and modifications to the mudguard itself. Perhaps this is why Don didn't specify the rear bogie mudguards on his drawings, sating just one pair for the front bogie wheels? Anyway, no big deal, it works on full size so will work on the model, just a little tricky perhaps, but then so's the whole model when adding prototypical extra's. Both sides are now completed, I elongated the dogleg plate holes near the motion bracket to make life easier I'll make up the sandbox units themselves later, I think that I have more than enough to be getting on with for now.  Next i took a look at the drain cock cable route, i'd be very interested in hearing from anyone with first hand experience of this on the full size loco, as to whether what i plan is close to the prototype or not. I have a few hundred photo's to dig through which may help, I'll go through these over the weekend but is anyone can help guide me I'd be most grateful. The picture shows approx what i plan to do running the cables down the inside as this makes the most sense to me, Don states to use piano wire with small bore tube, I'm going to use bowden cable (wire rope which should work better around the pulley's), not decided on size yet but I have found wire rope as small as 0.5mm OD which will fit easy enough, I can probably go larger if need be, it doesn't need to be rigid as it's a 'push,pull' system. You can see in the picture two coloured wires running what looks the best place to me, I have placed a no.22 drill into one of the holes through the frames for the main pulley shaft to show where the cable terminates. This shaft sits directly under the middle cylinder and with other linkages operates all 3 cylinders together. I'm looking forward to this part, I love details...  So, that's it for this week, there are other things to consider, such as the many oil lines and steam line to the whistle where ever I decide to put it and perhaps things that I haven't thought off. Most of these things will be pretty rigid and thus not need any real support but I think that when I drill the mounting holes for the bowden cable clips next week that i may add a few for future items, as i said i plan to spend the weekend going through my photo collection for the frames, I'll make notes of which piping that i would like to include, be it real or dummy....more on this next week chaps.... Pete |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2018 18:23:47 GMT
Good day all.. I have a fair number of photo's to show today although in physical terms not a lot of progress has been made but it's an important step that i'm working on and so will try to show how I'm dealing with it. I am of course referring to the positioning of the middle cylinder, I'm not there in machining terms yet but have hopefully covered most of the ground work ready for fitting. There is very little info given in Don's words, in fact unless I've missed it all he says is to drill the holes, either for bolts with nuts on the back to secure or to be tapped 6BA, I'm going for the tapped option,purely as I don't fancy in any future maintenance having to fiddle around with nuts in hidden places. There is very little on the drawings either but the one measurement that is given is to be honest all that's required, it took me a few looks to find it so would have been nice if Don had mentioned it in his words, after all, the positioning of the middle cylinder is fairly critical to a smooth running 2:1 gear. I have included a picture of the drawing as a visual aid to describe what I'm on about. The top left drawing you will note the measurement from the center flange to the most forward of the mounting holes, that being 1 37/64, probably not that best of things to measure from, that being a rough casting but that's what the man says and who am I to argue, I guess the position isn't as critical as i had assumed?  The next thing to check is the height of the cylinder, the known hole gives me both axis required as the top edge of the cylinder flange runs parallel with the frames so it's just a matter of pivoting the front upper right-hand corner (looking from the right hand side) to get it's position, basically that one hole and the angle of the top edge is my datum. This picture shows the underside, it's all pretty tight here, the bar that I've pushed through is the main cross shaft for the drain-cock apparatus, there are in fact two crosshafts, but these details are for another day. Note that the hole for the shaft is just below the line of the bottom row of mounting holes for the middle cylinder, as i said, very tight, clearly a section of the cylinder middle flange will need removing when it comes to fitting the pulley for the bowden cable to operate, I'll need to remember that before final fitting of the cylinder.  The final thing to check here was the position of the steam chest in relation to the 2:1 gear stay and the outside cylinder steam chests as they all need to be at the same height and parallel, this check is the last to show that the cylinder is at it's correct height and things begin to become clearer in ones mind, or should I say i breathed a little easier. Anyway, the picture shows the cylinder in position with a length of BMS bar pushed through the as of yet un-machined steam chest as a visual check on how things are looking, I also checked with one of the outside cylinder flanges in place and a cylinder casting held by hand to see if anything looked amiss, all looks good, needless to say i couldn't take a picture with all of this for obvious reasons..  One thing that has become very obvious is that I still have a fair bit of material to machine off the top edge of the cylinder flange I tend to leave such things oversize anyway to play safe, especially when there are no overall sizes given for the flanges in the drawings, i hadn't realised though that it would be as much as it actually is, more of that later. first job though is a little more machining of the saddle. I hadn't finished machining the bottom flange edge yet nor had I drilled the holes for the steam inlet/exhaust pipes, I had left all of these until I was sure of the middle cylinder's position. with the cylinder's final position known I could line up the saddle on the frames and plot exactly where I needed to drill the two holes. Before starting these I machined the lower edge of the side flanges and back edge too , IIRC this is about 5/16 from the lip that sits on top of the frames, with this done I could now work out how much needed to come off of the cylinder flanges, hope you guys are keeping up, I'm getting lost just writing it... Picture was taken as I made a start on the exhaust passage from cylinder to blast nozzle. Now the drawing states that this hole is 2 1/2 inches (REF) back from the exhaust hole from the outside cylinders, those who have been following me from the beginning may recall that I have positioned the saddle 1/8" back from that shown on the drawing, this is to keep it closer to the prototype ref photo's that i have and IIRC to match Don's GA. I did go into this in more detail some time ago but basically I think the error, if you can call it that, comes in due to the re-positioning of the front bogie from when it changed from swing-link to side-control types, the bogie yoke is actually moved 1/8" due to this change and perhaps why it looked wrong?  Here I have machined down the flange to 5/16 from the lip as mentioned and also finished the two steam holes, the exhaust in the centre and the steam inlet to one side, the drawing states to drill the inlet to 13/16, I haven't done that, I'll wait until I know the exact size of the pipework that connects here, the smaller the hole the easier to seal for a vacuum is my way of thinking. I will most probably make up some stainless baffle plates to go around the pipes ho help with this, Don just states to fill with asbestos or today's safe variant but I like the idea of fitting baffles, final decision on this will be when I know how much room I have to play around with inside the smokebox to be able to get to the fixing screws for the planned baffles, that's another on of those jobs on the back burner... Note that I have also cleaned up the inner edge of the flanges and reduced both the bottom area around the exhaust hole and taken out a section of the rear flange for the exhaust passageway to fit. Not very pretty but it's all going to be buried and out of sight so not a concern, well not to me, I have plenty of bits to do that will be seen..  With a little trial and error I got the saddle machined enough for the cylinder to sit on, now I have more to do here but will leave it until I have finished machining the cylinder flange down to size in a hope of keeping the fit between them as good as possible. The pen marks are from earlier when I was trying to get some idea of how much metal needed removing , it's not as much as it looks here and yes I know that the line isn't running parallel to the blue dots, it was just a rough guide, clearly the cylinder had moved during marking.  Here you can see how much does need to be removed form the cylinder side flanges, I'll need to re-jig the casting for this, that's a job for Thursday..  A view from above, the rectangle shape in the casting around the rear exhaust hole is roughly what needs to be removed for the saddle to sit down lower onto the cylinder..  Another to show that the steam inlet lines up...  Final picture for tonight is just me double checking that things are as should be, with the middle cylinder in place and parallel to the top of the frames i wanted to see if the main bore was still sitting at the required 7 degree incline. For this I pushed a length of 1/2" BMS into the piston gland opening, calibrated the gauge to be zero on the top of the frames and placed it onto the BMS bar.. ok you can wiggle it + or - 0.1 degree due to the play in the gland and length of bar but it's where it needs to be which is nice too know...  So, I know what I'm going to be doing this week after completing my grandfather duties, first will be to machine down the top edge of the cylinder side flanges, that drill/tap all of the 6BA holes, the forward of which are shared with the outside cylinder flanges, I tell you things are certainly close fitting on this design.... With all of that done I will re-check the frames for required holes (still need to do the bowden cable clip holes, will make a jig for those) and then I may be able to take a look at a good clean up and getting some paint on the frames, now that I am looking forward too.... thanks for looking in guys.. Pete |
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Post by simplyloco on Apr 30, 2018 18:35:17 GMT
Good to see someone else making up for lost time!
John
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Post by ettingtonliam on Apr 30, 2018 19:32:47 GMT
Looking carefully at that drawing, I think the 1 37/64" dimension is to the centreline of the cylinder. If you look you can just see a faint centreline running down from the left hand dimension line.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2018 19:57:11 GMT
Looking carefully at that drawing, I think the 1 37/64" dimension is to the centreline of the cylinder. If you look you can just see a faint centreline running down from the left hand dimension line. It's a good point..., I agree, it may well be the center...there's no way of actually determining where the center of the casting is so perhaps the web was placed to be on the edge of center to help find it?...it's a theory at least... Cheers Pete |
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Post by Deleted on May 1, 2018 19:54:18 GMT
Hi guys... Will I hadn't planned to do anymore on 4472 until Thursday but after finishing my babysitting routine this morning I found myself chomping at the bit to machine the cylinder and saddle until they fitted together, it just had to be done... I machined the top edges of the cylinder side flanges down by 0.220 which was the measured gap between saddle and frame from yesterdays work. With that done i marked out what needed to be removed from the saddle for the two units to meet. I did this in stages trying to keep the hole in the saddle floor as small as possible, the rear wall was just a matter of cutting away until it cleared the exhaust passage to the steam chest. I have two pictures to show, I didn't bother taking a picture of the cylinder set up on it's 7 degree incline jig for machining as it's the same process as shown before. Later I'll also tidy up the ends of the flanges, especially the part that was badly cast, having now sorted out most of what's what, I think that I should be able to loose most of the rough part. First picture taken from the side, I should have taken this looking more from the rear to show the area cut away from the rear wall of the saddle, you can just about get some idea of it from this picture though. Two things that I will need to do, the two blast pipes need to be of the same height, there's plenty of thread on the front pipe so I'll remove some later. Also I need to open up the rear pipe so that the bore is the same size as the front, again, I'll take care of this later. I haven't drilled the cylinder mounting holes yet, I'll leave that until Thursday when I have the whole day to take my time, most important is to remember not to drill right through on the steamchest side which is why I'll start this afresh on Thursday morning. To get the cylinder lined up with the saddle properly I rested the cylinder on the drain cock cross shaft, lined up the forward vertical line of holes (those that share with the outside cylinder flange) with the scribed line marked as described in the previous update and then ensured that the top edge of the cylinder flanges were parallel to the top edge of the frames, so basically 3 reference points were used. I also eyeballed the steamchest to 2:1 gear stay to ensure it's somewhere in the middle height wise. When I drill the holes I'll check that all is set as described and clamp to the frames for transferring of the holes. Hope that all makes sense, once this is done I'll remove a small amount from the bottom of the cylinder so that it's not resting anymore on the drain cock cross shaft, I may also take a look at where the pulley sits on this shaft and remove the required amount from the cylinder's central web.  Not much to add for the second photo other than to say it's taken from the front and that I will remove some metal from around the rear pipe so that I can later fit a baffle plate flat to the floor of the saddle  Anyway that's it for this unscheduled update, I just wanted to share as I'm quite pleased that things seem to be falling in place, this is a little involved and a bit of a head bender, the outside cylinders are pretty straight forward, having no incline and seeing as the flanges are already done, I just need to machine them and then fit accurately to their flanges, should be a piece of cake after this lot.... Friday I should be happy and giving the last update for the week...fingers crossed....see you then... Pete |
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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2018 20:09:20 GMT
evening all.. I've brought this update forward as it seems I have decking to sort out over the weekend... all's ok though as i got done what I wanted for the end of this week. I have a few photo's for tonight's update cylinder is now where it belongs and i've done a number of other jobs that weren't shown on the drawings. First up the drilling/tapping of the 34 holes for 6BA bolts, I had been a little puzzled getting to this point as there's 38 holes in the frames, things soon became clearer though once the cylinder was in it's correct position and I began drilling the holes. I'll cover the side where all holes are used first, this picture is the right hand side (drivers side), most screws as you can see are CSK, the front verticle row are hex heads as these are the ones that share the same holes as the outside cylinder flange which has all hex head bolts holding it to the frames.  For the fireman's side I needed to be more careful as there are a number of blind holes, Don makes no mentione of this, or in fact that 4 of the holes are redundant due to the proximity of the steam chest, or should I say I can't remember him saying anything about it. To ensure that I didn't drill too far and break through into the steam cheat or an exhaust passage I used a stop on the drill, the stop seen in the picture I ditched as it promptly dropped off when dipping the drill tip into cutting fluid, I didn't bother taking a picture of my final solution which was simply a Dremel sanding drum rubber that was taped to the chuck to stop it falling off, an added bonus was it didn't score the frames either and could be pushed up hard against the frame for each hole.  Here's the other side, the bottom row plus 1 up on the rear are drilled straight through, you can see the 4 unused holes which are where the steam chest runs very close up against the inside of the frames, IIRC along the top row there are 3 straight through, the others are up against either exhaust passages or the steam inlet area. I will admit to giving a sigh of relieve getting to this stage, I don't think that there's anything else in the build which is as taxing to one's mind as fitting this middle cylinder, well not for me at least..  I've included this picture just to show that the part of the casting that I thought was damaged will be fine, now that I know where the bolts are I can machine the edge down to suit and tidy this part up.  Now for the parts that aren't on the drawings, or as I say I've found no reference to then in either the words or music as curly would say. First is the expansion bracket on the drivers side, having taken closer looks at what runs along the frames trying to get them ready for paint I noticed the linkage arms for the lubricators, at first i wasn't sure of I was misreading the drawing which to be honest is very vague in this area. Don has included a drawing of the drive arm and the link's that connect up to both of the lubricators but it's not shown in relation to the other parts around it? When looking close it's clear that the link to the rear lubricator is impeeded but the expansion bracket, luckily I did take some very close pictures of this area which confirmed ny suspicion that there should be a vertical slot in the bracket for the link to pass through, well that's how I see it at least. picture shows the expansion bracket bolted to a right angle for me to drill and then machine the slot, it's actually a 'triangle' section so extra care is needed. I have positioned the slot to be offset from the slot in the running boards which the lubricator arm passes through. interestingly Don has both lubricator links going to the same pivot point on the drive arm, the prototype has two points on the drive arm giving a greater swing to the front lubricator? I could do this or follow Don, i'll make that decision much later, I haven't decided yet as to which lubricator is lubricating which part, something else to ponder over.  another thing missing from the drawings is the access hole/slot in the rear of the 2:1 gear stay for the middle cylinder valve connecting rod to attache to the 2:1 gear lever, So i removed the stay (hopefully for the last time) and drilled a suitable hole (easier than a slot)in the rear of the stay. Looking at the drawing for the 2:1 lever I took the distance from the pivot point to the position that the connecting rod fits onto the inner swivel gear ( my term here, I've forgotten it's name) which is IIRC 1 1/16 towards the frame side, the connecting rod doesn't seem to run parallel with the frame, I don't need to look at this yet. Picture shows the stay held agin on the right angle block.  i took this picture to show that the hole is where it needs to be, I've placed a length of 1/2 BMS bar in the steam chest and pushed through the 2:1 gear access hole, The bar is just resting on the bottom of the steamchest which isn't machined yet, so it looks lower than it would be in the 2:1 gear stay access hole.  A few pictures to show the end result of all this shenanigans.... picture from the top/rear. The cylinder and saddle are both bolted in place, it's getting tight around here, I wouldn't want to build to this design in 3 1/2 that's for sure.. One good thing is now that both parts are in place the height of the two blast pipes are much closer, so not much to remove if anything now. You get a better idea of the cut out on the back wall in this picture.  A view of the underside, I've placed a length of 1/2" bar in the piston gland to check/show the cylinder is running central for the crank.  still in checking mode, a side view to show that the incline is to drawing with the end if the bar being central for the crank axle.. I do like to double, triple check things..  Last picture for tonight of a general view, i have decided not to run the drain cock cables where I had first planned thinking after looking at some reference that they may sit much higher, I have placed a length of copper tube roughly were I'm thinking that they should be. This tube is probably twice the size required but I can easily get two pipe runs along here and down to the drain cock cross shaft under the cylinder with no sudden changes in direction. Note to self, I still need to cut away part of the cylinder lower center web for clearance of the cross shaft pulley'  The frames are nearly ready for paint, you may have noticed that i have removed the running board supports for the front side sections, the 2:1 stay is now loctited in place, I will remove the expansion links and I think that the frames will then be ready, once I have the paint/thinners. They need a good clean first and a little sanding to remove any score marks left over from all of the work that's been done on the., The cylinder/saddle will be removed and the area masked off so that the parts will still fit after painting with minimal damage to said paint. She's getting there.. Pete |
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Andrew C
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 447
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Post by Andrew C on May 4, 2018 9:07:50 GMT
Hi Pete Great work there, nice to see progress once more. even if it's sort of backwards to get paint on to go forwards again. I assume Apple green? I don't want to scare you and I hope that that's a optical illusion but the photo of the frames upside down looks to have a distinct curve to the right coming down the length between the last set of wheels and the cylinder. I'd hate you to start painting and then find you have to straighten something, or even worse find out when setting the timing. Running on Air by the end of the summer? Regards, Andrew |
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2018 9:27:15 GMT
Hi Andrew..thanks for your comment on progress...have no fear the frames are straight....it's not so much an optical illusion as a charateristic of the lens on the phone. I think if you study most of the photo's you'll notice what should be straight lines look curved due to the wide angle lens on the phone. It all varies depending on how sqaure the phone is held in relation to the item being photographed...since most of my pictures are taken at angles you get some strange results..... Cheers Pete |
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Post by joanlluch on May 4, 2018 10:01:27 GMT
Hi Andrew..thanks for your comment on progress...have no fear the frames are straight....it's not so much an optical illusion as a charateristic of the lens on the phone. I think if you study most of the photo's you'll notice what should be straight lines look curved due to the wide angle lens on the phone. It all varies depending on how sqaure the phone is held in relation to the item being photographed...since most of my pictures are taken at angles you get some strange results..... Cheers Pete These optical distortions can be reduced to a noticeable extend by using the zoom feature of the phone camera and taking the photos from some distance. It's a digital zoom, not a proper optical one, so some picture resolution loss can be expected by taking photos this way, but considering the already high resolution of most phone cameras, the loss is not that much and you get the benefit of a more realistic spatial perspective. I suppose this simple tip is already known, but just in case somebody hadn't think on it... I use this sometimes when I realise a photo I'm about to take will have too confusing or strange optical effects. Joan. |
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2018 11:27:08 GMT
Thanks Joan, I hadn't realised that which is a bit concerning considering my trade.. Just in case Andrew was right I put my best meter rule straight edge along both sides of the frames, not easy with so many obstacles in the way but there is a clear path along the entire length just below the expansion link bracket ...yep it was just the lens...phew i was pretty confident that it was the lense as in some pictures taken over the years you can see some real weird curves that are in fact dead straight lines..... Pete |
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Post by Jim on May 4, 2018 11:59:31 GMT
Lens distortion can be a problem in our hobby. I was wearing my multi focus glasses in the workshop and was concerned that every length of steel rod I picked up had a bend in it and had to be put aside, then it dawned on me that it was the lens in my glasses. I wear a pair of reading glasses in the workshop now and all the bent rods have straightened themselves out.  Jim |
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Post by Deleted on May 17, 2018 21:57:34 GMT
Evening guys Weighshaft bearings for tonight, these are one of those many jobs that I have skipped and now need to catch up on, I have more photo's than usual for this update to try and show how I have tackled these. There's nothing difficult about them but they do involve a little thought in which sequence is best to machine them in, or should I say best for me and the tools that I have to hand. They involve part turning and a little fabrication, Don specifies 'steel' for the bearings and silver steel for the weighshaft itself, I'll tackle the shaft another time. I have chosen to use EN8 for this job for no other reason than it's the only stock that I have large enough to do the job, in this case 1 1/2" bar. First picture shows a length being machined down to the required size of 1 1/4" which is for the mounting flange, the widest part of this particular part.  Next is to simply show that the bar was then cut into two sections approx 2" long, the length of the bearing is 1 17/32 plus 1/8 for the mounting spigot on the back to fit the frames, I will make this 1/4" as I have deviated from the drawings in that the hole in the frame is the same size as the hole in the expansion bracket, that being 1/2", iirc the drawing has the frame hole at 5/16" which is the dia of the weighshaft itself, this way I'll have the bearing going straight through the expansion bracket and into frames for extra rigidity.  Talking of 1/2", here I have rechecked that the frames are still square and that a length of 1/2" bar fits through nicely with no binding...i do like to check things..  Back to the two lengths of EN8 now at 1 1/4" dia, I chose to begin first by machining the 1/2" spigot onto each ..  Simple picture to show that both parts fit into the frames/expansion link brackets nicely..  Next job was to step drill right through each bearing and finishing by reaming to the desired size of 5/16"  Then back to the frames and this time with a length of 5/16" bar to again check that all remained square with no stiffness..  I then needed to take care of the various mounting holes that hold the bearing in place, these aren't all on the same arc around the bearing as they follow the expansion bracket more than the bearing, as you can see i clamped each to the frames and transferred the holes into each, not the most accurate method but not important as the spigot does the job of ensuring the bearing sits in it's correct position, the bolts just hold it to the frames, for this reason I opened up the holes a little to make life easier during assembly.  with the holes marked I then drilled each by hand on the mill, letting the drill find the centre of each transfer mark...  things were getting tricky now as i had limited space for this setup, literally no more than a few mm to play with between hitting the chuck jaws and fouling up against the tailstock but we endeavoured and got through in the end. Picture shows the bar now reduced further leaving the 1/8" flange with the drilled holes showing, bar is now 19/32" dia and I have just taken the final cut across the flange face.  back to the frames again to check that the holes line up, as i said i opened them up a little to make life easier. the hole without a bolt is a bit of a strange one as from what i can see this is supposed to have a bolt but it's too close to the bar, interestingly the same hole on the right hand side ( as seem from the camera)is a csk bolt hidden under the bearing flange being part of the expansion link bracket mounting points, I would have thought this one would be too but not according to the drawings? I may just tap it and fix a bolt from the inside.  Last machining jobs were the taper and the 5/64" wide collar that sits on the tip of the bearing, The drawing shows the taper going the full length of the bearing from the collar up to the flange, I have stopped short by 3/16" which is the depth of the braces that need to be brazed on, this makes it easier to fabricate using 90 degree angles rather than odd angles to match the taper, I very much doubt that this would be seen anyway. I used a profile tool for this exercise..The drawing shows the collar as having a round section, I have left a flat edge as the prototype has an oil cap on this collar which I plan to replicate. I was a little surprised that there are no bronze bushes in this bearing, steel on steel seems a little strange to me but will hopefully help a little with the planned oil cap fitted.  Last picture shows the bearings temporally fitted and with the braces silver soldered in place, sorry guys but I completely forgot to take pictures of this stage. To cover the basics I cut 6 triangles from brass sheet,used 0.5mm silver solder wire, held in place with tweezers and brazed in place. I have given them a general clean up but they really need shot blasting to get into the web spaces properly. I have one job left to do and that's to profile the part of the flange that can be seen overhanging the expansion link bracket in this picture.  That's it for tonight, took me nearly as long to write the update as it did to do the machining...lol more soon.. Pete |
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