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Post by Jim on Apr 3, 2011 8:15:55 GMT
Wise words and very true Shawki.
Jim
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Post by Deleted on Apr 3, 2011 11:36:42 GMT
Thanks for the support guys and Shawki I agree with you each model is different as is each model engineer who's making it. I wouldn't say my work is better than anyone else here though, I just love fine detail and I look at the other build threads both here and elsewhere and just admire the craftsmanship that's out there. Well done to all you guys building projects out there whether they are loco's,stationery engines or traction engines they all deserve applaus. Happy building...  Pete |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2011 16:43:26 GMT
Evening guys Pic222 Spring buckles, here a length of 9/16x3/8 BMS bar has been set in the 4 jaw, faced and then one end turned down to 5/16 over a length of 1/8. After centre drilling a No.34 drill is used to a depth of 5/16 which later is tapped 4BA. Last job here is to part the job at 3/4" along the bar not including the turned spigot. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2011 16:47:28 GMT
Pic223 After all lathe work had been completed the buckles were chain drilled in the machine vice as a first step to the leaf spring slot. Next an end-mill was used to machine out to the scribed lines and then finished with files. Finally the spigot that fits into the spring plate was tapped 4BA. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2011 16:54:25 GMT
Pic224 Here is an assembled spring, once the leafs have been fed into the slot and centred they are held in place with the 4BA grub screw. Now although I haven't finished the others yet I decided that the springs would be to strong as originally intended so I replaced another two leafs with tufnol. I won't know if this is enough until all springs are assembled and the chassis is fully loaded but so far all looks good and with a little weight put applied the spring does sit as it should for a fully loaded tender. Hopefully over the next few days I'll get the others finished and set the chassis up properly even though the shock absorbers aren't built yet as these shouldn't make any difference to the ride height. Back soon Pete Attachments:
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Post by davebreeze on Apr 5, 2011 23:11:57 GMT
Looks good.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2011 20:01:31 GMT
Pic225 Just one picture today guys but it's a big step in the tenders construction. I finally got the spring buckles finished so the springs are now assembled and fitted to the chassis. I haven't loaded the chassis yet but the springs compress nicely so I'm confident all will be ok. It's nice to finally have a sprung chassis, it rolls so much quieter now. Last job to do here will be the shock absorbers which won't be a five minute job. A question for you guys who have built springs before, did you paint them as a unit or did you separate them to component parts first? Looks to me that painting as a unit will save a lot of time. All views welcome.. Pete Attachments:
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pault
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,502
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Post by pault on Apr 6, 2011 20:29:31 GMT
Hi Pete,
I can’t speak from experience but I guess the problem if you paint them as a unit is stopping the paint going between the leaves and sticking them together and potentially changing the spring into a solid lump. Just painting the edges would be a pain but possible. On a number of the locos that I look after, that have working leaf springs, the springs are unpainted, probably for the above reasons. You must be getting a kick from seeing the tender almost finished and looking so good .
Regards
Paul
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2011 20:42:38 GMT
Hi Paul Yes I'm happy that the tenders getting there although not sure about being nearly finished. Having said that I am finding myself thinking more of the loco now that the tenders progressing well. Once I've finished the suspension, brakes and water system I'll probably move on to the loco , possibly the bogie first just to ease me into it although there's a hell if a lot of work just in that. I take your point about painting the springs , I won't leave them unpainted though as that wouldn't be following the prototype and since there are both steel and tufnol leafs it would look a little odd. I'll have to start painting soon though or I'll have far to much to do later.... Pete |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2011 19:18:02 GMT
Evening all Tonights update consists of more steps than usual since shock absorbers are fairly involved objects and I thought some of the info here may help others. Of course there are a number of ways of doing things but this is what was quickest and easiest for me. There are in fact 32 shock absorbers on Gresley's Pacific and I guess I should have built them all at once. However on further reading about FS it's come to light that the loco shocks ( except the trailing bogie) have a different shape to the tender, basically rectangular rather than oval so I've left those till later, there's also the fact that I just don't have the energy to do 32 at the same time, my poor fingers are getting very sore. Pic226 Here are the 16 rectangles cut and machined ready for shaping, size is 3/4x1/2x13/32 from BMS. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2011 19:21:50 GMT
Pic227 With the shocks marked out ( easier to do before drilling the hole) they were then drilled in the centre of the 3/4x1/2 face using a No.10 drill. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2011 19:27:46 GMT
Pic228 Next job was to mill out the recess for the rubber to sit into, This needed a 11/32 end mill, yeh right??? So I used a smaller one first ( only had a plain shank of the required size hence why I'm using a drill chuck) and then finished with the correct sized slot drill using the proper chuck. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2011 19:34:31 GMT
Pic229 Now to tackle the shape, here you can see the top template and the shocks lined up having already had the required shape scribed on to their sides. The top has to be done first as I need a flat service for each stage and wouldn't have this due to the 5 degree taper on sides and ends. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2011 19:36:54 GMT
Pic230 The top now roughly shaped using the band sander, to be finished off later using files and sanding pads Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2011 19:40:49 GMT
Pic231 As mentioned the ends and sides have a 5 degree taper so the sander table is set at the correct angle for this and shaping begins. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2011 19:44:40 GMT
Pic232 Since the top isn't flat a template couldn't be used but here the earlier recess comes in handy as it was a simple task to keep checking underneath to unsure the correct shape was being made as shown here. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2011 19:49:46 GMT
Pic233 Next was the retaining plates, again these are shaped using the sander first and filed to finish.. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2011 19:54:13 GMT
Pic234 Don says to use 3/16 rubber sheet or smaller if not available, all I have is the ribbed matting that I use on the the bench as you can see in this picture so I cut some of this up and put the ribbed faces together that is then close to 3/16. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2011 19:57:43 GMT
Pic235 Now the rubber and retaining plates need the No.10 hole drilled for the spring hanger and to me the easiest way of doing this was to assemble the parts first and then drill using the existing hole as a guide for position. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2011 19:59:45 GMT
Pic236 The shock so far , you can just see the rubber inside the recess. Attachments:
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