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Post by steamer5 on Aug 9, 2017 11:41:46 GMT
Hi Jim, Looking good! on the filter front, have got a pet shop in the area? could be worth a check to see what they have. Some of the foam they use looks like it has big holes but they way its arranged gives good filtering. I was browsing one of ours awhile back & got a couple of non-return valves for the vacuum brakes on the trolley, for $2 (I think) not worth making them!
Cheers Kerrin
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Lisa
Statesman
Posts: 806
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Post by Lisa on Aug 9, 2017 12:21:28 GMT
Jim, try inline garden hose filters from bunnings et al (such as this), just pull the filter out, it's a nice sturdy tubular plastic thing you can make a brass holder for that drops into your tender water filler. As an added bonus the inside of the filter is slightly conical, so a standard hose pipe will stay put and doesn't needing holding while the tender's filling (a good time to oil round). Can also put one (or more) under the tender, to filter the water again before it gets to your injectors.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 9, 2017 12:25:49 GMT
I plan to use inline filters for 4472, I have looked at various inline R/C fuel filters which should fit in the space that I have, I can always change the gauze if required...I'll worry about this later..
Pete
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Post by Jim on Aug 9, 2017 13:18:32 GMT
Hi Pete, It could be worth looking at John Johnson's (Britannia Builder)Blog where I think he was supplied with very neat fuel filters. If you don't have the link though I'm sure you would, anyway if not you can find it here: www.britanniabuilder.com/ I'm currently considering small scale expanded mesh safety tread sold in hobby shops for detailing O gauge diesels. It's an interesting issue and one we would all encounter at some stage. Jim
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Post by Cro on Aug 9, 2017 13:29:18 GMT
Or you could put one filter under the filler cap and filter all the water entering your tender??? I have some nice filters at home just for this job I grabbed at a show for a bargain, will get a photo later for you Jim.
Adam
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Post by Jim on Aug 9, 2017 13:49:50 GMT
Thanks Adam, this is getting better by the minute.
Now it being midnight and winter down here where we all sleep upside down I'd best off to bed.
Jim
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Post by Deleted on Aug 9, 2017 13:56:26 GMT
Or you could put one filter under the filler cap and filter all the water entering your tender??? I have some nice filters at home just for this job I grabbed at a show for a bargain, will get a photo later for you Jim. Adam I was trying to think of any cons for this idea...I can't... as the filler neck is the only place where coal dust etc could contaminate the water supply...assuming that is that you only use dummy vents....I like this idea...I'll give it some thought later in case I'm missing something...nice one Adam.. Pete
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Lisa
Statesman
Posts: 806
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Post by Lisa on Aug 9, 2017 15:25:51 GMT
Or you could put one filter under the filler cap and filter all the water entering your tender??? I have some nice filters at home just for this job I grabbed at a show for a bargain, will get a photo later for you Jim. Adam We always did both, filtering water going in at the filler cap, and again when going out of the tender. Might be overkill perhaps, but running loco's for a living, one tends to be a bit paranoid at times.
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Post by Cro on Aug 9, 2017 15:33:16 GMT
None of Grandads locos have fitlers at all and never had a problem but the 9f has them on each filter box and the Black 5 has one on the sump which feeds both injector valves. The good thing about the ones on the filler point is you can take them out and clean them easily.
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Post by steamer5 on Aug 9, 2017 15:34:44 GMT
Hi Pete, You just have to make sure that the coal dust cant get in to the water tank by any other means! An old friend had issues with blocking injectors & use to curse & swear every weekend about them! He would take it home for cleaning each week. Then one weekend he emptied the coal bunker & lifted the rear top plate off the tender, after taking over 1/2 a cup of coal fines out of the water tank & flushing it out, he had trouble free steaming!!
Cheers Kerrin
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Post by Deleted on Aug 9, 2017 15:43:49 GMT
Hi Pete, You just have to make sure that the coal dust cant get in to the water tank by any other means! An old friend had issues with blocking injectors & use to curse & swear every weekend about them! He would take it home for cleaning each week. Then one weekend he emptied the coal bunker & lifted the rear top plate off the tender, after taking over 1/2 a cup of coal fines out of the water tank & flushing it out, he had trouble free steaming!! Cheers Kerrin Thanks, Kerrin...mine is a sealed unit so hopefully, this shouldn't be an issue...guess I'll find out one day.... Pete
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Post by Jim on Aug 10, 2017 6:45:28 GMT
Thanks Adam, Kerrin and Pete for you thoughts. I will be going with Adam's suggestion and fitting the filter under the filler cap. I'm also conscious of the possibility of bits and pieces landing in the tender's water tank and for this reason I have decided to spray the interior of the tank a light Killrust Cream. It won't ever be seen unless the rear deck is removed but it will show up any foreign matter should it get into the tank. All this reminds me of a friend who took his 3" Burrell Traction Engine to a public display and was horrified to spot a little 3 yo happily pouring sand into the engine's water tank via the filling point on the side of the tender. All this happening as he explained the engine's workings and construction to the toddler's father. Jim
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Post by steamer5 on Aug 10, 2017 10:48:07 GMT
Hi Jim, Now IF that had happened back in the day....... saw my dad lift a kid off the ground with his size 8 boot! Resolved there & then NOT to p**s him off after a long trip on a hot day.... or learn to be real quick on the feet! (Cann't remember what the kid did but his mother then clipped him round the ear....)
Keep up the good work!
Cheers Kerrin
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Post by Jim on Aug 11, 2017 8:10:14 GMT
Slowly getting there with the first of the right angled elbow joints completed and fitted to the water valve. The flexible black tube will run forward under the tender floor to the point where it connects with the loco when it's all coupled up. I also primed the floor of the tender ready for a final coat of Killrust spray epoxy. Jim
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Post by Jim on Aug 13, 2017 1:15:08 GMT
Both water valves are now completed and ready to be fitted when the tender is reassembled but first there's the small matter of rivets and lamp irons, oops nearly forgot the frames to the two windows on the front of the tender which have yet to be added. The list never ends. The operating shafts for the valves will be adjusted to their final length when I have the rear deck and removable water dome in place. Jim Jim
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Post by Cro on Aug 13, 2017 17:35:39 GMT
Looking good Jim, little trick for the water pipes.... Untitled by Adam Cro, on Flickr The little ring around the end of the pipes just helps keep them on. Adam
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Post by Jim on Aug 13, 2017 22:07:43 GMT
Now that's a very neat idea Adam, thanks for the heads up.
Jim
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Post by arch1947 on Aug 13, 2017 23:20:43 GMT
Hi,With respect to filters, I use the sintered brass mufflers used to silence the exhaust air on pneumatic cylinders. They are finer than gauze but still have a very large surface area. I have used these on my Bridget and Virginia with good effect. Cheers, Arch
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Post by Roger on Aug 14, 2017 6:19:24 GMT
Hi,With respect to filters, I use the sintered brass mufflers used to silence the exhaust air on pneumatic cylinders. They are finer than gauze but still have a very large surface area. I have used these on my Bridget and Virginia with good effect. Cheers, Arch I like this idea very much, and had a similar one myself using those sintered ceramic 'bubblers' used in fish tanks. These long ones with flat bottoms appeal to me. It might be necessary to replace the plastic fitting with a Brass one though.
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Post by Jim on Aug 14, 2017 6:23:42 GMT
Thanks Roger for the link.
Looking at the photos the flat bottomed ones would fill the bill perfectly.
Jim.
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