Don't try this...

[SteveW]

Guys,

I've been struggling with spray tin Hammerite smooth for a couple of days now. It says on the tin one can/should re-coat after 15 minutes *but* without specifying ambient temperature. Anyway, I re-coated every half to an hour or so.

Anyway twenty four hours later I thought I'd give the bits a warm up in the oven to finish it off. I set the (her) oven to about 50C and put the bits in on a baking tray for a couple of hours.

Given the the paint had AFAI could determine gone off, hey it's had 24 hours, I expected the heat to confirm this. In the event not so. Nearly every bit managed to melt and weld itself to the baking tray and generally screwed up the entire effect. I've now got a load of red imprints of everything.

I've used the brush/tin white smooth on CH radiators and it's great. You get a hard, brilliant white finish that's really durable.

And another thing, Hammerite seems to need quite a thick coating. The first pass goes very blobby and needs several delayed passes before it all joins up. By contrast I've also used the Plascoat high temperature black spray paint and it's a total joy to use. I went for Hammerite because, based on previous experience, it was very durable, and that's what's needed for a club loco.

[jackrae]

The last job I considered hammerite for (a REMAP job) I needed it reasonably hard in a short time so I phoned the makers to get the ideal baking temperature. They said forget it, baking does not cure the hardening process and it would take 6 weeks to fully harden out. I used POR-15 in the end and it produced an excellent result with a really hard coating within the day.

[ron]

Steve
I think Hammerite is a shadow of what it used to be [even the brushing stuff], although you have been unlucky with the spray. they are reasonably effective and dry quickly but are mega expensive for what they do and they chip far too easy, I would also go for POR-15, it sticks like the proverbial.
Ron

[ericcee]

This little exchange has been very useful. I had been thinking of using Hammerite Smooth on my loco frames (see my thread on the Modelworks Bagnall) but this has put me off it! I googled POR-15 and found the UK supplier, so I reckon I'll be following that up. The only trouble is that there seems to be a very limited range of colours (I'd like a bright red for the insides of the frames).
Thanks for the lead, anyway.

Eric C

[baggo]

Hi Eric,

Looking in my Frost catalogue the Ford Red seems to be quite a bright red but the colour swatches may not be that accurate,

John

[SteveW]

Eric,

I had the frames stove enameled. The Loco has had a good twenty years of wear and tear when the a couple of boiler tubes gave up this spring. Paint chipping and rust was evident and I got the "Ooo! the club loco was sooo tatty" at the last Midland MEX.

I paint stripped the chassis, had it grit blasted and by dinner time (to avoid new rust build up) it was primed professionally in a two part primer. Then a stoved black finish coat.

There was a suggestion of powder coating but more advice suggests it can go wrong and generally wasn't as good as a decent paint job.

The down side was, including smoke box it was eighty quid but hey, you only want to do it once.

I'm glad the above report has been useful to you. I think it's the point of doing this group.

Feel free to come and see how far I got with the nightmare on the CSME stand at the Midland MEX. I'll be there Saturday.

[dinmoremanor]

I have used Plasticote spray paints on my Simplex and the results have been pretty good. I have used there BBQ paint which gives a lovely satin finish for all the black parts, excellent heat resistance and it looks like new still even after a few years. It can be bought for 4-5 quid a tin from the right places. I used the Forest Green for the rest of the loco. Worth a try? A pic of my Simplex is here: mikesolloway.fotopic.net/p27847867.html

[ericcee]

John - POR-15 - I followed the link from the US manufacturer's website to what I thought was their UK distributor who only displayed a few colours (colors?). If I'd looked further down the google list, I'd have come across the Frost link. I ought to have known about this from a conversation I had not so long ago with an acquaintance who is restoring an MG Midget (takes all kinds!). So - I guess you could be right, the Ford Red does seem OK, I think I'll get a copy of their catalogue.

Steve - I'm saving my pennies to have the tank and cab professionally painted. This has worked fine on my Maxitrak Jack.
Unfortunately I'll not be able to get down to the Midland MEX this year, despite the fact that my daughter (and grandchildren) live not too far away, so there's always a free bed. Just too much on - retirement can be very busy!

Mike - Bear in mind that I want to brush-paint the frames. I just don't seem to get on with sprays of any kind on anything other than simple flat surfaces, despite many hours (and pounds) trying! Your Simplex looks good - I wish I had your talent.

... You know - for the wit and wisdom so freely exchanged on this forum, it's as good as getting down to the club for a two-hour chin-wag every day! Great, isn't it?

Eric C