peteh
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Post by peteh on May 21, 2012 11:47:06 GMT
Bu**er - Just put a cooking thermometer in the oven and with the temperature gauge set at 90 C I was actually getting around 55 C. I have adjusted the temp dial until I get a settled 90 C - and it now reads 170  - not quite Farenheit but almost closer! I'll give them an extra 3/4 hour to be safe I think. Attachments:
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peteh
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Post by peteh on May 21, 2012 11:48:03 GMT
On another point - here's the shaped guide bar brackets - much sexier ;D Attachments:
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Smifffy
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Post by Smifffy on May 21, 2012 21:58:04 GMT
.....errrrrr
:-)
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Post by doubletop on May 21, 2012 23:08:06 GMT
Bu**er - Just put a cooking thermometer in the oven and with the temperature gauge set at 90 C I was actually getting around 55 C. I have adjusted the temp dial until I get a settled 90 C - and it now reads 170 - not quite Farenheit but almost closer! I'll give them an extra 3/4 hour to be safe I think. Depending what it says on the can 90C seems low if its ceramic heatproof paint 200C is more like it. Otherwise it will look good but any oil will take it off. Pete |
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Post by doubletop on May 21, 2012 23:21:13 GMT
Apparently it's some slang Australian technical term along the lines of "Beaut" |
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peteh
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Post by peteh on May 21, 2012 23:55:46 GMT
The can says 200F (93 C). I was a bit surprised at how low the temp was. This was engine block paint, not full on Stove paint.
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on May 22, 2012 9:29:32 GMT
Pete , I feel I must come in on this , Wattle cans high temperature , on the cans it says 540 deg C , that is what I use .
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Post by doubletop on May 22, 2012 10:11:31 GMT
Shawki
Pete and myself had a discussion on another forum. about the 3M high temp cans available from SuperCheap. I had assumed Pete was using the 3M products. They are either 300C or 650C. The 650C cans advise baking above 200C, There's nothing on the 300C cans but I take the view that baking at 200C can't be wrong.
The trouble is SuperCheap are removing 3M from stock so I'm guessing Pete got hold of something else
Pete
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peteh
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Post by peteh on May 22, 2012 12:51:29 GMT
Sorry folks - but Housten we had a problem! Peter could probably hear my screams in New Zealand. Went to switch over to the lathe tonight and nothing happened - checked power and fuse - all OK. Finally got it to work but only intermitantly. Problem is either the stop/go button or the chuck shield interlock switch. Anyone else had this problem? I'll also post onto the tools thread for some enlightenment. Won't be doing too much more until I can get the lathe running reliably. Did however manage to get the piston rod glands finished so not a total waste of a night. I'll check on the paint type tomorrow night. |
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on May 24, 2012 8:50:37 GMT
Pete , I think last time I bought White Knight brand , still 540deg C . Now I wouldn't worry about baking , for smoke box it will bake at first steaming .
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Post by doubletop on May 24, 2012 10:00:20 GMT
I posted a reply to your lathe problem obvioulsy it didn't stick.
I see its a Seig. On my SX3 the grub screw on the cam on the guard microswitch wasn't tight and the cam was in the wrong position. On first switch-on nothing happened.
No doubt they use a similar setup on yours so I suggest you look at that first. You may have just been luck uo to now.
Circuit diagrams were in the back of the manual.
Pete
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peteh
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Post by peteh on May 24, 2012 12:39:23 GMT
Thanks Pete - I did see your reply and after a bit more experimentation I am 90% sure that it is the chuck guard. This is a roller microswitch and plunger which is pressed in when the guard is lifted and released when the guard is in place. The microswitch is slightly sticking but does come good so I can continue until I get a replacement. Regarding the paint - I include a photo of the can and baking instructions. Attachments:
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peteh
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Post by peteh on May 24, 2012 12:42:53 GMT
A bit of hand work today - threading and filing the valve spindles. I have only rough finished the ends short and will finish square when I have the valves finished, so there will be no play on the valves. I did consider threading the rear lengt and using a nut front and back to lock in but thought I would see how it goes first. I am a bit surprised that it did not comprise the normal rectangular nut and thread that most slide valves seem to use. Attachments:
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Post by doubletop on May 25, 2012 7:19:42 GMT
.............. I am a bit surprised that it did not comprise the normal rectangular nut and thread that most slide valves seem to use. So did I until I started to look into doing it that way. There was a reason it can't be done but I can't remember what it was. Maybe it will come to me later. Pete |
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peteh
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Post by peteh on May 26, 2012 14:01:19 GMT
No photo tonight - part way throught the valve spindle forks, hopefully will finish them tomorrow after the clubs public run day - if I can still stand  |
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peteh
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Post by peteh on May 27, 2012 12:10:00 GMT
Here's a photo of the finished valve spindle forks, attached to the valve spindles. Looks like it's getting near crunch time for the cylinders etc - another of those procrastination moments On another note I think my home computers slowly dying - I have a lovely rose hue to everything at the moment. Time to take the covers off and reseat the video board - it may help. If it does die I'll stay in contact through my works machine. Away for the long weekend next weekend here in WA, going north for a rogaine. Attachments:
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peteh
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Post by peteh on May 27, 2012 12:15:20 GMT
On another note I went round 4 stores this weekend trying to get some Loctite 609 for the axle/wheel joint. Not a single store carried it! The guys at our club reckon it's the best one for the job but also reckon it's mainly carried by places not open on the weekend  I think the run day today may have broken our record for passengers, running 5 trains and didn't seem to barely change the length of the que. I have also brought a can of the 2000F paint in the same blue, so I can paint the boiler area at a later date |
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Post by caseyjones82 on May 28, 2012 3:46:46 GMT
Thanks Pete - I did see your reply and after a bit more experimentation I am 90% sure that it is the chuck guard. This is a roller microswitch and plunger which is pressed in when the guard is lifted and released when the guard is in place. The microswitch is slightly sticking but does come good so I can continue until I get a replacement. Gday Pete, Bit of Contact Cleaner sprayed in there maybe? Or even bypass the microswitch to fix it and prevent it happening again? On another note I went round 4 stores this weekend trying to get some Loctite 609 for the axle/wheel joint. If you dont mind waiting a littlewhile for it to be posted, Try HereCheers, Alex |
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peteh
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Post by peteh on May 28, 2012 8:23:25 GMT
Luckily I have next Friday off so will (fingers crossed) get some then. Plenty to get on with anyway  |
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peteh
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Post by peteh on May 31, 2012 9:33:54 GMT
Just a quick update - the replacement wheel castings have arrived (thanks GLR) but going up north for a few days and a rogaine so I'll be quiet
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- not quite Farenheit but almost closer!
