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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Feb 18, 2020 17:04:18 GMT
Hi Guys, well I've taken on board all that you've suggested and even the lovely job that Keith made on his model, but I got a bed sheet and I will have a go after a few twinks have been made in the copper pipe when the boiler goes on. I knew I could rely on you all for a few ideas, so thank you all.
Geoff (Carlisle).
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Feb 19, 2020 17:00:58 GMT
Hi, calling all JP Britannia builders. Having built the ash pan and the grate some time ago I decided to put the feed water pipes and bypass pipes from the axle driven pump to somewhere near the cab. The problem is although I didn't realise it at the time is the copper pipes would foul the drop grate as they are supposed to pass through the ash pan. The question is how did some of you manage it.
Geoff (Carlisle).
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on May 10, 2020 19:50:14 GMT
Hi Guys, I can't show any photo's at the moment but I've been trying to fine tune the cylinder drain cock's but I found that the linkage from the cab to the fore end is 1/8" BMS rod with several diversions , even though I changed the operating device from a push button to a proper lever but the linkage is a bit too flimsy. So i'm going to change the linkage to something a bit more substantial like 1/4"x1/8"bms, but the smokebox will have to come off, so it's a case of two steps forward and one step back.
Geoff (Carlisle).
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Jul 23, 2020 16:23:53 GMT
Hi Guys, I decided to make the return crank to J.P.s drawing and sizes.But making the locking onto the crankpin using Les Warnett's 9F drawings. What I can't understand is the 4-8BA bolts of the L.M.S. pattern which will go half way along the tapered pin, something wrong here. So how did you 9F guys make it? Do your best.
Geoff (Carlisle).
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barlowworks
Statesman
Now finished my other projects, Britannia here I come
Posts: 873
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Post by barlowworks on Jul 23, 2020 17:48:10 GMT
Hi Geoff. If you look on YouTube for no23mk2, he is making a 9F and shows how the return cranks are done. Part 49 shows making the return cranks and tapping the 8ba holes then part 56 shows setting the return cranks with the valve gear and drilling for the 8ba securing bolts. I have no idea if this is the right way to do it as I have not progressed that far myself but hope you find it useful.
Mike
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don9f
Statesman
Les Warnett 9F, Martin Evans “Jinty”, a part built “Austin 7” and now a part built Springbok B1.
Posts: 960
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Post by don9f on Jul 23, 2020 20:06:09 GMT
The Les Warnett idea was for the return crank to have a short male tapered section at the back, being drawn into a tapered socket in the main crankpin. The crankpin can therefore be drawn in to the taper by a 4ba stud and thin nut at the back of the crankpin, set as required (maybe later in the build?) before drilling and tapping the four 8ba stud holes, which as you have seen, are half in the crankpin, half in the male tapered part. This then prevents the return crank moving out of position.
I’m not at home at the moment, so can’t do any drawing etc. so hope that makes sense.
Cheers Don
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Jul 30, 2020 20:53:14 GMT
Hi Mike & Don, what you told me was very constructive after watching the guy explaining it all as I could not get my head round as drilling out of the taper , but it doesn't as it just carries on into the other taper, so thank you very much.
Geoff (Carlisle).
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Aug 5, 2020 20:36:45 GMT
Hi guy's. I was watching this guy who was fitting the return cranks to the crank pins and finally drilling the 4 -8BA holes with a pistol drill and this is what I wanted but I've never been able to find it again as it will be the method I will be using , so is there anyone know how to find it again, do your best.
Geoff (Carlisle).
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Post by Jim on Aug 5, 2020 22:54:01 GMT
Hi Geoff, I'll try and send you some sketches to show you how I did mine. Using a pistol drill and fitting 4BA studs sounds a bit hairy to me. This is the driver's side 4 stud removable return crank on Boadicea. Stay safe Jim
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don9f
Statesman
Les Warnett 9F, Martin Evans “Jinty”, a part built “Austin 7” and now a part built Springbok B1.
Posts: 960
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Post by don9f on Aug 5, 2020 23:34:15 GMT
Hi guy's. I was watching this guy who was fitting the return cranks to the crank pins and finally drilling the 4 -8BA holes with a pistol drill and this is what I wanted but I've never been able to find it again as it will be the method I will be using , so is there anyone know how to find it again, do your best. Geoff (Carlisle). Hi Geoff, was it this chap building his 9F on youtube, episode 56 about 8 minutes in? no23mk2
Cheers Don
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Post by Jim on Aug 6, 2020 1:09:50 GMT
Hi Geoff This is the design I used and the steps I took in making my LMS style return crank. The photo shows the two cranks yet to be milled to shape but with the blind hole for the end of the shaft drilled out along with the hole for the crank pin.
With the cranks milled and drilled I used a template as a guide to drilling the four holes for the 10BA securing studs. For this job I mounted the cranks on their crank pins and secured them temporarily with bearing Loctite.
To drill the hole for the locating/locking pin I set the crank pin up in the mill drill and lined the drill up with where I wanted it to go through the end of the pin then I reassembled the crank to the pin and drilled the 1/8" hole for the pin through both components. The photo shows the end of the crank pin with half round hole for the locking pin.
Once everything was completed I used Don Ashton's method for setting the pitch circle for cranks. I found loctite gave me a few seconds to make final adjustments before it set firmly in place. You do need to put some light score lines on the pin for the Loctite to key to.
Others will have their methods I'm sure but this has worked well for me.
Jim
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Aug 8, 2020 19:10:10 GMT
Hi Don, i'm sorry for the delay in replying to you, but that chap isn't the one I originally saw, as the chap I saw was building a 9F but the 4 holes that he had drilled in the return crank was the pilot holes that he used a pistol drill to drill into the two tapered spigots between the crank and the pin. He then showed the two spigots to the camera where you could see the two groves , he went on to tap them 8BA. I'm sorry to put you to so much trouble, but I liked his method.
Geoff (Carlisle)
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Oct 31, 2020 21:16:16 GMT
Hi guys, Machine Mart trades under the name 'Clarke' what country makes these products?
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Post by dhamblin on Oct 31, 2020 22:22:21 GMT
Clarke stuff is mostly made in China, Geoff. Quality-wise it is a mixed bag.
Regards,
Dan
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Nov 1, 2020 11:08:02 GMT
Thank you Dan, that's what I thought so I think I shall look elsewhere .
Geoff (Carlisle).
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Post by 92220 on Nov 1, 2020 17:18:42 GMT
Hi Geoff.
If you haven't done the return cranks yet:
I did my crank pins, on the 9F, using a taper to allow adjustment just before final locking in place. I have just checked my drawings. If you are able read Autocad drawings, I can send you my working drawing which shows how to make it all, not just the bare drawings. The taper idea works well, and using loctite as well gives an extra backup to the locking. There is also the little tool I made up to set the return crank to Don Ashton's settings. If you can't read Autocad, I can do a scan for you in .jpg format.
Incidentally, Machine Mart is not the same as Clarke tools. Machine Mart just sell Clarke tooling. I used to sell Clarke compressors when I had Phoenix Paints Ltd, and used to deal direct with Clarke International, but Dan is right. Much of the Clarke stuff is made in China, and as he also said, quality is definitely variable.
Bob.
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Nov 6, 2020 19:49:27 GMT
Hi Bob, I must thank you for the offer but my 5/8" dia. crank pins are already pressed in and keyed in the back. I thought that I had to pin the return crank with 8BA studs , never thinking about the turning motion being so strong. If I could find out if the Clans had the original fixing like the Britannia's , then I could squeeze them out and alter them, but that's in the near future as the boiler wants finished and whole lot of loose ends. But again thank you for your assistance.
Geoff (Carlisle).
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Post by Geoff (Carlisle) on Dec 21, 2020 22:47:04 GMT
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Hi guy's, Geoff Routledge here wishing all model engineers a happy Christmas.
Geoff (Carlisle).
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Post by Jim on Dec 22, 2020 5:08:19 GMT
......and the same to you Geoff and don't forget to keep at least one Kangaroo apart if out in public. I hope 2021 brings more delightful progress on the Clan too.
Cheers
Jim
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Post by Deleted on Dec 22, 2020 6:30:54 GMT
Merry Xmas Geoff...
Pete
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