Gary L
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,208
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Post by Gary L on May 12, 2021 22:54:22 GMT
Gary, the "Spin" Doctor eh ??----LoL !! I must give that a go sometime....many thanks.. Alan Just another spin-off from this wonderful forum! Gary
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Post by Jim on May 13, 2021 0:31:21 GMT
I did as Gary described when spinning up the copper top for the Burrell's chimney.
On the advice of a fellow modeller I left the former encased in the copper for added strength. My friend didn't as he followed the full sized practice of having a hollow cap. Tragedy happened as he stood the chimney up on the work bench to photograph it only to see it topple sideways onto the work bench crumpling his lovely chimney cap. With cylinder end covers the brass cap is protected by the enclosed cylinder end cover. Jim
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Post by ettingtonliam on May 13, 2021 7:06:10 GMT
Yes, I left the aluminium former in the copper cap for my 4" Tasker tractor, partially for strength, as you say, but also because I couldn't get it out without risking damage to the copper top.
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Post by Jim on May 13, 2021 8:08:48 GMT
Yes, I left the aluminium former in the copper cap for my 4" Tasker tractor, partially for strength, as you say, but also because I couldn't get it out without risking damage to the copper top. I agree the former would have been hard to get out and with it out spinning the top of the cap to close off the bottom section would have been impossible.
As a follow up I had a brain snap when, after removing the chimney to check the alignment of the blower, I forgot to re bolt it to the chimney base. On th trip to the club the chimney fell off to roll around in the back of the trailer transporting the engine. The only damage to the chimney cap was some 'bruising' to the rim of the cap which was easily burnished out when I returned home. How different the story would have been if the cap was hollow.
Full size practice doesn't always translates to scale models.
Jim
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Post by Roger on May 13, 2021 22:33:02 GMT
Slow progress still I'm afraid, I've got too much work and other things going on at the moment. However, I did manage to make the rest of these Cylinder covers for the front and rear. 20210511_143304 by Georgia Montgomery, on Flickr 20210512_095346 by Georgia Montgomery, on Flickr The big holes in the plates are so I can plug weld the covers in place with th TIG welder. 20210513_224059 by Georgia Montgomery, on Flickr I've still got a fair bit of commercial machining to do, which will tie up the machine for the best part of another week. I've got 600 Delrin parts to machine, 15 at a time. It's boring work, but it pays the bills. I don't take on much work like that, but this customer pays well, so I make an exception. It's this kind of work that paid for the machine, many times over. I'll try to do a few turning bits while that's happening.
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dscott
Elder Statesman
Posts: 2,437
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Post by dscott on May 14, 2021 2:57:39 GMT
Paid work is very useful but it slows progress on projects. Done for a friend in the Club who then paid far much more than what I quoted. We are still having wonderful memory's of our last Club Running. David and Lily.
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Post by Roger on May 24, 2021 18:49:42 GMT
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Post by Roger on May 24, 2021 20:04:50 GMT
Here are the two cover plates for the Cylinder wrappers machined from 0.27mm Steel Shim. You have to be careful and test shim with a magnet to make sure it's not Stainless, else it's going to be a sod to paint. 20210423_113515 by Georgia Montgomery, on Flickr And here they are cleaned up. I'll treat them with Fertan and then rivet them in place. 20210524_205825 by Georgia Montgomery, on Flickr
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JonL
Elder Statesman
WWSME (Wiltshire)
Posts: 2,906
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Post by JonL on May 24, 2021 20:09:24 GMT
Those panels look grand. Also I really need to get some Fertan.
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Post by delaplume on May 24, 2021 21:34:53 GMT
Hi Roger........if those are the ones that fit on the cylinder cladding then they are access panels for pipe connections ( Valve chest drain ?? ) and should have screws rather than rivets........... I can't remember if they are round head slotted for a screwdriver, or hex-head.......Just me being ultra "picky" ( and helpful I hope ?? )..
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Post by 92220 on May 25, 2021 8:21:27 GMT
I think Fertan is based on phosphoric acid which converts rust from unstable ferrous oxide to stable ferric oxide. Phosphoric acid off Ebay is very much cheaper. It also works much better if diluted to a strength of around (not critical) 15% with water. I have used it since the time I started my loco, when it was originally sold under the trade name Ferroclene. The company I worked for had a heated bath of the stuff that almost every mild steel part was dumped in for around 15 minutes, though I have always used the phosphoric at room temp.
Bob.
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Post by Roger on May 25, 2021 10:22:43 GMT
Hi Roger........if those are the ones that fit on the cylinder cladding then they are access panels for pipe connections ( Valve chest drain ?? ) and should have screws rather than rivets........... I can't remember if they are round head slotted for a screwdriver, or hex-head.......Just me being ultra "picky" ( and helpful I hope ?? ).. Hi Alan, Yes, that's what it covers. However, the heads of the screws are so small, that even if they were there, they would be filled with paint. I'm just going to use 0.8mm rivets to simulate the round headed screws.
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Post by 92220 on May 25, 2021 18:14:59 GMT
Hi Roger.
If you go back to one of your photos on page 719, you will see that the screws are not roundheads, but are hex heads. Knupfer do M0.6 hex head screws and nuts (equivalent to 1/4" BSF in 5"G). If you do want to go down that route, I can let you have a M0.6 tap. Tapping size is 0.4mm. You might think that tapping with a M0.6 tap will be dodgy. In fact it is very easy and the taps are surprisingly strong. I bought a pack of 10 taps M0.6 and M0.8, from China. I have tapped a lot of M8 holes in 0.6mm nickel silver sheet, and some in 0.5mm steel sheet, and haven't broken any taps.....yet!! Hope I'm not tempting fate!!! The important factor is to ensure the tap and tap wrench are held securely in line with the tapping hole.
Bob.
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Post by Roger on May 25, 2021 18:53:09 GMT
Hi Roger. If you go back to one of your photos on page 719, you will see that the screws are not roundheads, but are hex heads. Knupfer do M0.6 hex head screws and nuts (equivalent to 1/4" BSF in 5"G). If you do want to go down that route, I can let you have a M0.6 tap. Tapping size is 0.4mm. You might think that tapping with a M0.6 tap will be dodgy. In fact it is very easy and the taps are surprisingly strong. I bought a pack of 10 taps M0.6 and M0.8, from China. I have tapped a lot of M8 holes in 0.6mm nickel silver sheet, and some in 0.5mm steel sheet, and haven't broken any taps.....yet!! Hope I'm not tempting fate!!! The important factor is to ensure the tap and tap wrench are held securely in line with the tapping hole. Bob. Hi Bob, Well spotted, the round heads are on another part. I've already drilled the holes 0.8mm so I'll have to fit something that's going to fit the hole. I'll probably just machine up a few hex headed rivets and peen the backs over. That's a very kind offer Bob, but I think I can work round it this time. I'm avoiding anything smaller than M1 since it's not a super scale model. It's good to know that you can tap smaller holes though.
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Post by Roger on May 25, 2021 21:06:31 GMT
The front and rear of the cylinder casting should have had this flange on the frame face, but I've long since made the Cylinders which don't have that detail. DSCN5620 by Georgia Montgomery, on Flickr The casting is symmetrical so the same detail appears on the front where it's much more visible. So here are four dummy plates being machined using a 2.5mm 4 flute cutter with 1mm deep cuts and about 10mm/min so it's smooth and gentle. All of these were machined with one cutter which still cut as new when it was all done. The holes are drilled 1.4 and tapped M1.6 for the dummy bolts. 20210525_140858 by Georgia Montgomery, on Flickr The edge has 1.6mm Silver Steel dowels to line it all up. I'll probably Silver Solder these on. 20210525_212712 by Georgia Montgomery, on Flickr The face plate is also 3mm Steel, so this locates nicely without wobbling about. 20210525_215607 by Georgia Montgomery, on Flickr
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Post by keith1500 on May 26, 2021 16:14:43 GMT
Nice piece of detail. I can not say I have ever noticed that before.
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dscott
Elder Statesman
Posts: 2,437
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Post by dscott on May 27, 2021 0:14:23 GMT
This was possibly the second item added to the detailed drawings. Which grew slightly to fit everything in round of course Slightly Over Scale Cylinders.?? Well at the end of the day you could just bung her in a Glass Case and dust twice a week. These have to look great and WORK. The Class 2 and Black Five both also use backing plates on the cylinders. No doubt Stanier Hawksworth and Ivatt heavily influenced each other in their various meet ups. David and Lily.
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Post by delaplume on May 28, 2021 21:03:18 GMT
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Post by Roger on May 28, 2021 21:30:14 GMT
Hi Alan, No, I haven't seen that group or that photo. That's probably the clearest one I've seen of them in service. Thanks for that. It's interesting that they painted the connecting rods Red. Maybe that was a safety feature to make them stand out if they were working in close proximity to personnel near the tracks. Alternatively, they may have beed painted Red to show up any cracks.
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Gary L
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,208
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Post by Gary L on May 29, 2021 14:52:07 GMT
Hi Alan, No, I haven't seen that group or that photo. That's probably the clearest one I've seen of them in service. Thanks for that. It's interesting that they painted the connecting rods Red. Maybe that was a safety feature to make them stand out if they were working in close proximity to personnel near the tracks. Alternatively, they may have beed painted Red to show up any cracks. NB Roger, you probably realise (others might not) this is at NCB Keresley colliery; the nasty livery is the giveaway. Also, I can't think of any examples where Swindon painted the rods or motion; the livery guide was for bright steel. Gary
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