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Post by Roger on Jun 8, 2024 21:43:39 GMT
Here's a view of the top fittings of the Lubricator, with the Elbow I'm making next. 20180110_110909 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr So it's the usual setup, with an extension added to the 3D model for it to attach to the collet, and a containment area to make sure it doesn't try to cut it off! PXL_20240607_211707595 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr The roughing is done with a 1.5mm Carbide End Mill, with the program flipped in the Y-axis and the 4th axis turned through 180 degrees to do the other side. Obviously you have to clock up the stock to be central to the 4th axis centre of rotation and also set the height to the correct radius, close to the cut. If you don't do this, the two halves won't line up. PXL_20240607_221155922 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr The cutter was then swapped for a 1mm Ball Nosed type and the finishing program run with 50 micron overlap (2 thou) I've made a mistake and didn't allow the cutter to go down far enough to clean up the face where the thread goes... PXL_20240608_094251678 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr ... so that was cleaned up next... PXL_20240608_094609392 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr ... and the hole drilled and tapped M1.6 PXL_20240608_095233724 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr The 3D printed fixture is just a 10mm diameter cylinder x 15mm long with the model subtracted from it. You have to remove any holes in the model else that will leave pieces of the model to remove later. I also added a 1.6mm stalk where the thread goes so that it left a hole for a M1.6 bolt to help with alignment and holding it securely. I used 7 perimeters to make sure the wall thickness was very strong. The default is 12, and that's a bit too easy to deform. PXL_20240608_095727777 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr I left enough of the model sticking out to just be able to get a clock onto it for setting up. PXL_20240608_101156386 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr And this is all you get for that effort. I could have made a full sized one in the same time! PXL_20240608_101500301 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr I thought I'd have a go at making the Wire type Cool Handle for the Warming Valve. I don't want it to rust, so it's a choice of Stainless Wire or this Phosphor Bronze. PXL_20240608_192811700 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr PXL_20240608_194902771 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr It needs a little more tidying up, but once it's got a little tranished it should look ok. PXL_20240608_201622034 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr I cut the heads off four M1.4 screws to make four studs to mount the Dummy Hydrostatic Lubricator. With those in place, I thought I'd have a quick look to see how that looks. Now you can see why I wanted to have it there because it's right in the way of the pipes that need to go down that side. PXL_20240608_211334331 by Billy Roberts, on Flickr There are a few more pieces that need to go onto the Lubricator, but I'll do those later. The M1.6 grub screws won't be here for another week or so, but I can now get on with running those pipes and finishing off the parts under the Footplate.
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oldnorton
Statesman
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5" gauge LMS enthusiast
Posts: 699
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Post by oldnorton on Jun 9, 2024 17:09:39 GMT
Beautiful work Roger. You can rightly take pride in what you are building. I know this loco is going to run, and run well, but I question how much track work you want it to do, or you will destroy so much of its beauty. Yes, run it four times a year, but have another work-horse loco to do the passenger hauling on your home railway?
I only start such thoughts as I face them myself with my reasonably tidy Britannia. I have just replaced the wooden cab floor for the second time as the previous ones could not take the heat. My green steam manifold is turning black as it endures around 40 hours at 160 degC.
I am not wanting to put you off. You have done a superb job. I am only wanting to add some realism to any plans you might have. Put it in a glass box, no. Use it, yes but how much.
Norm.
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Post by Roger on Jun 9, 2024 17:51:27 GMT
Beautiful work Roger. You can rightly take pride in what you are building. I know this loco is going to run, and run well, but I question how much track work you want it to do, or you will destroy so much of its beauty. Yes, run it four times a year, but have another work-horse loco to do the passenger hauling on your home railway? I only start such thoughts as I face them myself with my reasonably tidy Britannia. I have just replaced the wooden cab floor for the second time as the previous ones could not take the heat. My green steam manifold is turning black as it endures around 40 hours at 160 degC. I am not wanting to put you off. You have done a superb job. I am only wanting to add some realism to any plans you might have. Put it in a glass box, no. Use it, yes but how much. Norm. Hi Norm, I'll run it as much as it interests me. Since we don't have a club track, it won't get used every Sunday. Hopefully I'll get out ten times in a year, but that might be ambitious. It ought to be pretty robust, even though it looks a bit fragile. Everything that has to work is pretty simple, even if the exterior makes it look otherwise. It would drive me nuts to have to keep fixing things and for it to be a nightmare to get apart. I've focused on making maintenance as simple as possible, without compromising too much on asthetics. Time will well whether these ambitions are realised. In the meantime, I'll keep plugging away on what I find interesting until it's ready to Steam. Hopefully that will be this coming year. I've got the nightmare of painting the Bunker to deal with first!
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Post by chris vine on Jun 9, 2024 18:31:25 GMT
Hi Roger,
When you do run it, I think you should used something like distilled water. The salts in ordinary water can make a real mess if there are any weeps. Not that your fittings will dare to leak!!
Also, the lack of muck if you used distilled water will mean there is less to clog up some of your tiny passageways...
Chris.
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Post by Roger on Jun 9, 2024 21:55:54 GMT
Hi Roger, When you do run it, I think you should used something like distilled water. The salts in ordinary water can make a real mess if there are any weeps. Not that your fittings will dare to leak!! Also, the lack of muck if you used distilled water will mean there is less to clog up some of your tiny passageways... Chris. Hi Chris, Weeps! Perish the thought. Seriously though, the sea of 'O' rings ought to make it pretty water tight. The smallest passageways are in the Whistle Valves and piping. The rest of it is all as large as on any other Locomotive. The insides of all of the functional parts are large, even if the outside might suggest otherwise. I'll be able to run it on Distilled or RO water on occasion, but realistically it's going to have to run on whatever is provided. I don't want to appear like a Prima Donna and have a pampered and precious Locomotive. I hear what you're saying though. It would be great if all tracks had an RO system like they have for the Severn Valley Railway.
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Post by 92220 on Jun 10, 2024 10:49:44 GMT
Lovely work Roger!! If you want to use phosphor bronze instead of steel, for any parts, or brass, you can make them look like steel by nickel plating. It is a really easy process. Kits are available on the internet. I bought mine from Chronos, who do 3 different kits. One is a matt finish nickel plate, then there is the Bright finish kit which is highly reflective like EPNS cutlery. The third kit is there Standard finish which is a gloss finish but not as bright as the Bright kit. This one should produce a finish like steel. There is also a company on the 'net, that sells Black Nickel Plating kits, but this process is a bit more complicated. I have a kit but haven't used it yet, so don't know how good it is. Another finish I have just used is a Black Self Etch Primer, made by Paragon Paints, which is part of Stationary Engine Parts Ltd. They also supplied a special thinner for spraying the etch primer. I used it to paint the backhead plate on my loco, which has a load of tiny M0.6 and M0.8 hex head screws. The primer went on so thin, with the Badger 200 airbrush, the screws were all totally visible as if plated rather than painted. It is a really dense Black primer so the coating can be VERY thin and still totally opaque.
Bob.
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Post by Roger on Jun 10, 2024 11:41:35 GMT
Lovely work Roger!! If you want to use phosphor bronze instead of steel, for any parts, or brass, you can make them look like steel by nickel plating. It is a really easy process. Kits are available on the internet. I bought mine from Chronos, who do 3 different kits. One is a matt finish nickel plate, then there is the Bright finish kit which is highly reflective like EPNS cutlery. The third kit is there Standard finish which is a gloss finish but not as bright as the Bright kit. This one should produce a finish like steel. There is also a company on the 'net, that sells Black Nickel Plating kits, but this process is a bit more complicated. I have a kit but haven't used it yet, so don't know how good it is. Another finish I have just used is a Black Self Etch Primer, made by Paragon Paints, which is part of Stationary Engine Parts Ltd. They also supplied a special thinner for spraying the etch primer. I used it to paint the backhead plate on my loco, which has a load of tiny M0.6 and M0.8 hex head screws. The primer went on so thin, with the Badger 200 airbrush, the screws were all totally visible as if plated rather than painted. It is a really dense Black primer so the coating can be VERY thin and still totally opaque. Bob. Hi Bob, That's a very good point, I hadn't really thought about Nickel Plating.
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Post by Roger on Jun 18, 2024 19:13:23 GMT
The dummy whistles are mounted on a little bracket which I'm lucky enough to have the Works Drawing for. Here I'm machining the holes for the Whistle Elbows and the location for the gusset with a 0.8mm PCB cutter. The slot goes all the way front to back, but also there's a section where it goes all the way through. PXL_20240616_131538862 by David Buckland, on Flickr PXL_20240616_182112604 by David Buckland, on Flickr PXL_20240616_190302272 by David Buckland, on Flickr PXL_20240616_200437770 by David Buckland, on Flickr I decided to make a former and pins to make certain the bend was in exactly the right place... PXL_20240617_191922907 by David Buckland, on Flickr ... like this. PXL_20240617_193427091 by David Buckland, on Flickr PXL_20240617_193540415 by David Buckland, on Flickr With a little work with needle files, the Gusset fitted... PXL_20240617_194507007 by David Buckland, on Flickr ... although I should have made the tag stick through a little further. I used the point of a small tap to spread the tag so it held in place. PXL_20240617_194521251 by David Buckland, on Flickr Then is was business as usual with a hairpin of 0.5mm Silver Solder wire and Nail varnish. PXL_20240617_195331812 by David Buckland, on Flickr I'm resting it at a steep angle to encourage the Silver Solder to create a fillet along the bottom of the gusset too. PXL_20240617_195743556 by David Buckland, on Flickr PXL_20240617_200034185 by David Buckland, on Flickr That seemed to come out ok, so now I can get on with the Whistles themselves. I'm waiting for some other parts to be delivered so I can get back to finishing the Whistle Servo Valve and finish what's under the footplate. PXL_20240617_203553568 by David Buckland, on Flickr
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