Stainless balls not round, that might explain why my boiler clacks leak even after reforming the seats and fitting new balls. I will have to try bronze balls next.
If you search eBay for 'ceramic ball bearing', you'll find some Silicon Nitride balls which are used in precision ball races. They are harder than Stainless or Hardened Steel balls and they don't rust. They are also very accurate indeed. You can get them in any size, both Imperial and Metric. Alternatively you can get white Zirconia Dioxide balls which have very similar properties. I haven't had the opportunity to use these myself in a working valve, but they seem ideal to me.
how is the O ring attached to the clack valve body, ideally the flat bottomed seat needs to be achieved?
Sorry I missed this question; the o-ring only needs to be held lightly in position and this can be done by making the hole a few thou smaller than the diameter of the ring so as not to distort it, or by boring a slight recess near the seat. Rob
Hi Cadser, you don't say why you think your delivery pipes are too small? I have No4 injectors on my B1 Springbok that I've recently finally got into steam. 3/16 water feed, 5/32 steam feed and 3/16 delivery. 100 PSI working pressure. Only problem I have is the Martin Evans steam valves are too restrictive, a bit like LBSC's design the steam has to find its way past the spindle before getting to the outlet union. If I throttle the water a bit they both work dry. Next job is to make new valves where the valve head withdraws past the outlet union, should be perfect then. Hope this helps
Member of Southampton Society and Fareham Society. Running a Super Simplex, commissioned a new build B1, A3 and Pansy yet to be rebuilt.