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Post by joanlluch on Aug 30, 2015 8:22:49 GMT
Hi all, I am searching for advice on lift tables for miniature locos. My loco will be a very heavy one -it already is without the boiler and cylinder blocks- and I can no longer manage to move it around without help. I have both searched local suppliers and the internet, but I struggle to find something that really pleases me. Standard, commercially available, lift tables tend to be too heavy and the wrong dimensions for the purposes of holding a locomotive. A google search for the terms "lift" "table" "miniature" "locomotive" gives some results, such as these ones homepage.ntlworld.com/jim.jvml/lift_tables.htm www.myford-lathes.com/steam3.htmlI also recall having seen someone who has build their own from scratch on the "Live Steamers and Model Engines of Australia" group, but I am no longer able to find it. In this case the table was made as a scissor type, and used a long screw rod to lift the table instead of a heavier hydraulic piston. One important aspect that I am considering is the weight of the table. To me there's no point on using a table that weights more than the loco itself. Ideally, I should be able to load the table on a mini-van with no or little help, as I intend to use the table to approach the loco to the tracks loading platforms. I am currently inclined on making my own table according to my preferences but I'd rather not re-invent the wheel, so I would appreciate any suggestions on what you are using, or any tips on that subject. Thanks. Joan |
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jem
Elder Statesman
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Post by jem on Aug 30, 2015 16:33:43 GMT
Scissor type tables are quite easy to build, using a cheap hydraulic car jack, building your own means it can be built specifically for your engine, and height for loading into your van, an interesting project I think
best wishes
Jem
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Post by Deleted on Aug 30, 2015 16:46:13 GMT
something along these lines may be of use, www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cml3-hydraulic-motorcylce-lift they do a number of types the cheapest of which has no top so you could build your own with rails but are restricted to the height that they can lift too. The one I've given a link to is very capable of lifting a 5" tender loco and wouldn't take much to adapt for rails and for working from underneath. This one can lift to 770mm which should do the job... Pete |
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Post by joanlluch on Aug 30, 2015 17:10:15 GMT
Scissor type tables are quite easy to build, using a cheap hydraulic car jack, building your own means it can be built specifically for your engine, and height for loading into your van, an interesting project I think best wishes Jem Hi Jem, I like the idea of using an hydraulic car jack as a basis for it. I wonder if you can point me to to some photo on the internet or from your own? Thanks |
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Post by joanlluch on Aug 30, 2015 17:34:45 GMT
something along these lines may be of use, www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cml3-hydraulic-motorcylce-lift they do a number of types the cheapest of which has no top so you could build your own with rails but are restricted to the height that they can lift too. The one I've given a link to is very capable of lifting a 5" tender loco and wouldn't take much to adapt for rails and for working from underneath. This one can lift to 770mm which should do the job... Pete Hi Pete, thanks for the link. To work with the loco I currently use a couple of wooden hexagonal plates as someone suggested some time ago. It's very simple but so far it works very well for me.  Girador by joan lluch, on Flickr The lift tables you pointed out are a bit too strong and heavy for my needs. I want to carry the table along with the loco in a mini-van in order to pull the loco out of the ban and back onto the track. Most circuits have a loading platform for locos which is about 700 mm high, but most locos in my country are small and can just be put on the track with the help of another person. I don't think this will be my case so that's why i am searching for something that would allow me to do so in a more convenient way. The lift capacity of 770mm would be just right thought. |
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Post by chris vine on Aug 30, 2015 17:55:43 GMT
Hi Joan,
Yes, the Handy Height ones are very good and robust, but also very heavy!
I am sure you could make something using a motorbike lift as a starting point...
Chris
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Post by Roger on Aug 30, 2015 18:39:59 GMT
Rolled hollow steel section in say 2mm wall thickness would make a sturdy table lift and it's very cheap. With your milling machine, you ought to be able to put the holes in easily enough, and then you will only need a few parts to be made for you. You can buy the plastic end caps from eBay so the whole thing could look very professional.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2015 7:57:21 GMT
i just bought one of these to move my halton tank around, i had to modify it a little to be able to secure the loco down,i wheel it straight out to the car lift it up .slide the loco in then take it back to the workshop.luckily at my club we have an hydraulic lift and we can back straight up to it in the car,one suggestion i would make is to put rubber wheels on it, www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380283653407?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT |
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Post by joanlluch on Aug 31, 2015 11:32:15 GMT
Hi Drifter,
Thanks for the reference, That's unbelievably cheap. I wonder if that may be too unstable for a very long loco. Mine total length without tender is 1,300 mm. (Similar to LBSC Britannia or Don Young Doncaster). So I would have to add lateral extensions that will be significantly larger than the available surface in the table.
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Post by chris vine on Aug 31, 2015 11:39:37 GMT
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Post by joanlluch on Aug 31, 2015 11:44:04 GMT
So far, I have drawn this:  Conjunt by joan lluch, on Flickr All square profiles are 40x40x3 and all rectangular ones are 60x20x3. I also made a simple (static) structural calculation about what the table can support and it's more than enough for my loco, but I am not confident on using smaller profiles because of the dynamic loads while carrying/loading/unloading the loco or which I do not know how to compute. The drawing still lacks wheels, and I need to figure out the best way to elevate it. As suggested by Jim, I may just fit a small hydraulic car jack somehow. Weight is already 46.6 Kg so it's already too much, but I do not think that this can be done any lighter without risking to break it with the loco on top. |
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Post by ilvaporista on Aug 31, 2015 12:00:47 GMT
For a similar application I used some threaded rod to make the lifting mechanism like an old time scissors car jack, it worked for me and the main reason was it's cheap!
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Post by joanlluch on Aug 31, 2015 12:40:24 GMT
For a similar application I used some threaded rod to make the lifting mechanism like an old time scissors car jack, it worked for me and the main reason was it's cheap! That's quite a sensible suggestion, and it will not add much weight to the assembly. To help lifting the table faster I can think on using a suitable battery powered screw driver or a hand drill. |
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jem
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,067
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Post by jem on Sept 1, 2015 16:46:53 GMT
Hi Joan,
I like your drawing vary much, unfortunately I have not mastered photography on this forum yet, so cannot post a photo. conventional car jacks are available from Lidl from time to time, and other outlets very cheaply not the bottle type. This would be mounted under your blue part to force the blues up,( they might need to be reinforced for this) it would go about 300 mms from the bottom axle.you would need a pad across the blues to push against, and on the bottom rails for the jack to sit in. It could easily be a separate part, so adding no extra weight to the main unit, when loading it into the car, you would have a proper jack for the car for nothing too! Wheels would go outside the ground 40 x 40 tubes these and the top could be dismantable for portability in transport.
I hope that this makes sense
best wishes
Jem
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Post by andyhigham on Sept 1, 2015 20:13:48 GMT
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