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Post by cplmickey on Mar 31, 2018 16:45:22 GMT
At the firebox end, it's normal to have angle on the boiler, and angle fixed to the frames which holds it down, so that it holds the boiler in position, but doesn't stop it moving lengthways due to thermal expansion. So turning the whole engine over would not create any problems in that area. However, there's always the ash, soot and general crud in other areas..... Just going on my own experience. Both my Simplex and my Hall have rubbing angles on the boiler but are not retained by anything on the frame. Agreed it's a good idea but if an engine has been built without them then the possibility of boiler damage is there if it falls from the frames. The (Winson) 9F has neither but is retained by 2 6BA bolts - I wouldn't want to rely on them to hold the boiler in place especially if they've been in situ for a number of years and potentially weakened through corrosion. Ian
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Post by doubletop on Mar 31, 2018 21:16:38 GMT
.... ...... Note the 4 stone balancing weight - it is not strictly necessary, but it makes me feel better. Tipping forward has always been a concern for me. I've abandoned the supplied handle so that the track section can more centred, fore and aft over the wheels. I'm curently using mine with my 7.25" Dart and at 120Kg, a tad heavy. I don't have a rotator for it but do have a section of track that I can place on heavy duty trestles and work on the loco from underneath. I did have a near accident loading the Dart into my van one day and the table was a little low. Instead of pumping 'up' I pressed the 'down' peddle and the table dropped. The buffers caught on the back of the van and the loco was at a precarious angle down to the table. An "Oh bother" moment and a rapid move to to the up peddle. Fortunatley recovered OK and no dammage done. Pete
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Post by Jim on Mar 31, 2018 21:38:16 GMT
I'm not sure what the Britannia weighs in at but like your 7.25" Dart it is heavy and I dread the thought of having an 'Oh bother moment' like yours. Thank heavens Pete you were able to recover the situation with out any damage.
Jim.
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Post by steamer5 on Mar 31, 2018 22:57:38 GMT
Hi Jim, My dad had a similar near WOOPS. His storage trolley is setup so its the right height to roll his loco onto the trailer, he has an attached link span that folds down when not required, anyway he was pulling the loco from the trailer to trolley when the trolley moved leaving the loco suspended!! Once he had it sorted, he modified things......attached a couple of lengths of chain to the trolley, the other ends goes over a couple of hooks on the transport frame....never had an issue since!!
Note to self, must do the same!!
I have the same trolley as Pete, I used rivet nuts to hold 20mm box to the top of the table, I can change one rail so its either 5" or 7 1/4", the rails are long enuff to get my trollies on that run to 1200mm long.
Cheers Kerrin
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Post by 92220 on Apr 1, 2018 11:08:26 GMT
Just had a thought.... Why not use a garage engine stand? That would turn the loco end for end, as I suggested earlier, rather than sideways around the boiler centreline. They are cheap too. All you need to do is use some bits of 25mm square tube as rails, or even angle iron set with the unused legs of the angle pointing outwards. That way you have the maximum clear with between the 'rails' for working. The stands only have a long handle for rotating but it would be very easy to fit a worm and wheel arrangement.
Bob.
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Post by steamcoal on Apr 2, 2018 5:40:29 GMT
92220
I think it is well worth contemplating the potential catastrophies of inverting be it boiler discconection or muck in the clacks and injectors.
I have no issue with a boiler off invert for a major overhaul or repair but consider it probably best to take a peek under with it up the correct way as Julian mentioned. Save for the potential crook neck or muck on your face it might be the best option.It should need to happen often anyway...i hope.
Do need to make a good stand with brakes too.
Hayden
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 2, 2018 8:43:44 GMT
It depends how much you want to spend on it and is it going to be a new toy or just a tool . This simple stand cost very little , reliable , adaptable to a wide range of lengths , I have built many 5" and few small 7.25" engines over 38 years , still using it as good as the day I made this high tech stand . modeleng.proboards.com/attachment/download/2082
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Post by 92220 on Apr 2, 2018 10:18:16 GMT
92220 I think it is well worth contemplating the potential catastrophies of inverting be it boiler discconection or muck in the clacks and injectors. I have no issue with a boiler off invert for a major overhaul or repair but consider it probably best to take a peek under with it up the correct way as Julian mentioned. Save for the potential crook neck or muck on your face it might be the best option.It should need to happen often anyway...i hope. Do need to make a good stand with brakes too. Hayden Hi Hayden.
You are quite right! I should have qualified my suggestion. A loco with a boiler fitted, should never be inverted with the boiler in place under any circumstances. It is too heavy for the relatively minor fixings and the fact that the back end has to be loose to take up expansion.
I was thinking of my own build which is still just at the chassis stage, and inversion is no problem (at the moment!). However, just raising the front to put a loco on a steep incline, could be done without too much bother. It would just need something to stop the boiler trying to slide down the frames lengthwise if raised at the front. I think, as long as the incline isn't more than 60 degrees to the horizontal, it should be quite safe. If raised at the back, the smokebox would hold it from sliding forwards.
Just a thought.
Bob.
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Post by steamcoal on Apr 3, 2018 22:22:37 GMT
Shawki.
That looks a good one. Not to heavily built and adjustable for length and table top too.
Few bits of angle, spacers and bolts, bit and bobs.
Thanks.
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