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Post by andyhigham on Jul 17, 2019 20:51:48 GMT
Where can I get 6mm Pyrex glass tube with a stripe for my water gauge? Or is it a paint brush and a steady hand
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Post by builder01 on Jul 17, 2019 21:06:41 GMT
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Post by andyhigham on Jul 17, 2019 21:11:08 GMT
Cheers :-)
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Jul 17, 2019 21:16:39 GMT
Hi Andy,
I will look into my tin of gauge glass. There is quite a bit of schelbach glass in the tin - white back with a blue or red vertical stripe.
However, it is rather brittle, so I have never used it, preferring instead a white painted card with black diagonal stripes fitted behind the gauge on the backhead.
Happy to send you a few lengths if I have 6mm, which I am sure I have, give or take a few thou. I'm never going to use it, so happy to see it go to a good home. Best send me a PM.
Cheers,
Julian
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Post by coniston on Jul 17, 2019 21:55:28 GMT
I use the red line glass from Polly Models, really easy to see the water level, it shows as completely red where the water is. Not the best photo but shows what I'm saying.
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Post by andyhigham on Jul 18, 2019 16:21:56 GMT
I have ordered some from LSM. Cutting, in the past I have scored around with a triangular needle file then tapped the score line to break. Then ring the supplier for another length and try again.
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Post by ettingtonliam on Jul 18, 2019 16:58:11 GMT
When I was at school, and we did basic glass blowing in chemistry lessons, I seem to remember that having made the score line, you then wetted it (spat on it usually - we were horrid) before attempting the break. I don't think we even scored it all the way round, just a nick on one side. A long long time ago, things may have changed.
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Post by jordanleeds on Jul 18, 2019 17:20:26 GMT
When cutting glass in the past at an old place of work used to warm the ends to just melt the sharp edge that would cause a stress raiser I don't know if its actually worth doing but know now that I buy glasses to length this is already done before supply
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Post by ettingtonliam on Jul 18, 2019 17:46:01 GMT
Yes, you are right, we did that as well, reduced the chances of cutting yourself on the sharp ends.
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Post by racinjason on Jul 18, 2019 22:38:02 GMT
I heat the cut ends to put a round edge on the glass,its easier on the seals as well as your fingers. Just don't over do it because it will reduce the bore on the end as the glass melts. Cheers Jason
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Post by steamer5 on Jul 19, 2019 4:50:58 GMT
His guys, As has been said, use a triangular file & Nick one side, best with a new file, a diamond one would be a good bet, spilt on your finger & apply to the nick. Now the important bit.....wrap the tube in a cloth (so you don’t get glass fragments in your fingers!), nick side away from you, thumbs to each pull back, pivot on your thumbs, you should have a nice clean brake, we did this on tube from 4 or 5 mm up to 12 mm, on both plain & borosilicate glass. Making tee’s & y joins was fun!
Then fire polish the cut ends, rotate the glass until you see it go orange, which is just enuff to soften the glass, job done! Did it this many years ago in my training days for a past career, whether the spit is really the best I never really found out but it works.
Cheers Kerrin
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Post by keith1500 on Jul 19, 2019 6:03:00 GMT
You have raised an intersting point there.
Fire polish the ends. Not heard that one before. Great tip . Thanks
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