paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Jan 20, 2008 21:23:21 GMT
To bring together my latest posts into one thread: Refitted the mystery screw from my lathe and firmed-up the saddle - great! Removed the blanking grub-screws and fitted a tray to keep most swarf off the bed. Brill! Removed the rear tray for easier access. Much better. Converted all the dimension from imperial to metric for my next project and made the first real part. Good start. Got to grips with the throw-away deburrer... I am now officially a 'convert'!
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Post by Steve M. W on Jan 20, 2008 23:25:01 GMT
Its nice when a plan comes together ;D
Steve
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steam4ian
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One good turn deserves another
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Post by steam4ian on Jan 22, 2008 1:34:10 GMT
G'day Paul
I converted my 7x12 from imperial to metric by changing the dials from 40 to 50 divisions. My 7x12 is the Real Bull variant, not the Sieg make like yours appears, so I modified the compound slide feed screw retaining method to control the backlash as part of the project. I reduced the backlash on the cross slide feed by grinding off the face of the dial extender, actually I used a linishing belt, there is now almost no longitudinal backlash from the bearing, most is now in the nut.
Your chip tray is neat, you will find it a great help as most swarf falls on to that keeping the bed much cleaner, keeps swarf of the lead screw as well.
I still like having a splash back but I think I will either mount it to the lath on piano hinge or set it further back.
Let us know what you think of the 7x12, have you made other "improvements"? Look up th 7x12 minilathe group on Yahoo, it is very useful.
regards, Ian
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Jan 22, 2008 21:13:47 GMT
Steve, what're you doing here... you should be boiler bashing ;D Hey Ian. Mine's a 'Clarke' brand and from what I read they're probably the worst of the bunch of the Chinese jobbies but it seems ok to me! (but what do I know). The chip tray is also just long enough to cover the wheel (whatever that's really called!) in the apron that engages the lead screw - I know some users have fitted a separate cover vertically to cover just that. Although I'm working in metric I'm ok with the 40 divisions ... 1mm per 40, 1/4mm per 10 or 0.025mm per thou is lodged in my brain! I've read through loads of improvements but haven't done any others yet - I still blanch at the thought of drilling holes in the slides etc. One thing I do need to get (or make) is a vertical slide. I was looking at the Arc one today (£60 UKP) and I've looked at the homemade machine-vice based ones but as always it's time & money. I might just get a mini-mill instead ;D The 'productive day' went a little pear-shaped when the longitudinal 1.5mm steam hole decided to chart it's own course and came out in the wrong place. It might still have worked but it displeased me immensely!! That part of the design (Elmer's 'Scotty') is a bit daft IMHO; a 1/16" hole about 1.5 inches long? Hmmm. In my version (and re-made part) it's now a 2mm hole (what's that, about 1/12"?)! Actually the new part decided to play it up too so half an hour of fine filing a misplaced hole was called for. Still, got there in the end
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steam4ian
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Post by steam4ian on Jan 23, 2008 8:22:49 GMT
G'day Paul
I looked at vertical slides and decided to go for an X2 mill; I don't regret the decision. However I am going to make a block to go on the tool post to which I can attach a cheap vise; this could be handy for line boring.
I agree regarding Elmer's designs, they are too much like watch making to me. I am building a double acting oscillator at the moment. I have milled the steam passages into the back of the mounting block. I am yet to decide whether I solder a backing plate on or screw it on and use a gasket/sealant.
Good luck.
Regards, Ian
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Jan 23, 2008 12:53:33 GMT
I agree regarding Elmer's designs, they are too much like watch making to me. I am building a double acting oscillator at the moment. I have milled the steam passages into the back of the mounting block. I am yet to decide whether I solder a backing plate on or screw it on and use a gasket/sealant. What's the spec of your engine Ian? Let's have some images in the stationary engines section I hadn't grasped how small this one was until I actually started on it - a massive 2 inches across the main frame LOL. Ah well if it works I can build another and scale it up or make 'double scotch' the twin version.
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steam4ian
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Post by steam4ian on Jan 23, 2008 21:05:08 GMT
G'day Paul
My engine is 8mm bore x 24mm stroke. It began life as a kit from Chasteam BUT the only thing left of the kit is the idea. I had built up two kit engines one of which was presented to my grandson. I am in the process of building a gauge 1 loco but needed a diversion, particularly as the club lost interest in building a gauge 1 layout. So I thought of making the kit a mobile engine, but the boiler was too small and the engine too long, also I wanted to make the engine double acting etc. In the end it is easier to build a new engine. I haven't much left to do to get it on air, probably only an evenings work. We have the test cricket match here, Australia vs India so I will spend most afternoons at the cricket for the next few days.
Building this engine and boiler is prototyping some ideas for the loco which at the frame, axles, wheels and cylinders stage.
I have a round tuit pinned above my office desk so will post some pictures
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Jan 23, 2008 21:25:12 GMT
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