Static lubricators

[ivanj]

I am building a King and I have to say that the mechanical lubricators look as if they will give trouble in service. I know that it is possible to use boiler pressure to feed oil to the cylinders and would like to know what the pitfalls of designing and operating such a system are. I can appreciate that thick oil might be reluctant to move until it has warmed through, Any comments would be really helpful.

[baggo]

Hi Ivan,

Modern mechanical lubricators of the Jim Ewins type fitted with roller clutches (such as sold by Steamfittings etc.) are pretty reliable. The problems associated with them are usually due to leaky check valves allowing steam to blow back. However a lot of builders do fit hydrostatic systems instead. Keith Gammage described a simple system which he fitted to his Simplex in ME issue 4091. Details are available for download from the Simplex website:

freespace.virgin.net/simplex.steam/simplexprobs.htm#5.Lubrication.

This is a very basic design without any sight feeds so has to be set by trial and error. There's no reason why you couldn't add sight feeds though.

Fred Cottam described a much more sophisticated version with sight feeds in ME issues 3331 and 3332. This is based on the GWR type and is controlled by the regulator. Looks very complicated to make though! I can scan the articles for you if you are interested.

Hydrostatic has the advantage of being much more controllable and usually has a much bigger oil tank (often under the cab floor) giving longer runs between fills.

John

[ivanj]

Thanks John, an interesting article and enough info to build the system. Would be interested in Fred Cottam's article if it is easy for you to retrieve.

[baggo]

No problem Ivan, I'll sort it tonight.

[albertsell]

Hello Ivanj,
Many years ago I built two loco's and fitted Hydrostatic lubricators- some details:-
Oil tank had top filler--bottom drain-- steam from a valve on manifold straight to tank at bottom,had no problems with steam getting to tank as it had condensed on its way to tank.
Made a site glass with oil control valve to adjust oil flow--found water with a drop of glysorine added to be OK in glass tube,purchased from Reeves about .75ins OD thick wall .75 long.
Fitted a oil stop valve operated by regulator handle to stop oil flow when standing.Had no problems and oil tank would last a full days running.
Bye Albert

[Shawki Shlemon]

Hi ivanj
I am sure this topic has been discussed before , I built the King and fitted three static lubricators. Two between frames where the oil lubricators are supposed to be for outside engines ( one each ),Difficult to access but I made a special tool to reach the drain and vent both from bottom . and the third in front of inside cylinders for the common steam supply of inside cylinder .I make them as large as possible to have enough oil for a full day run .
Basically a copper tube with bronze ends 3/16" thick min, silver soldered . a top bush for connecting to the cylinder/s ,a bottom bush for drain and pressure filling using oil can and hose .and a third bottom bush with stand pipe inside for vent ,this is not necessary but helps to drain water easier when servicing .The bottom fitting on mine are 1/4-40 male to receive a blank which is a pipe nut and a solid tail peened over to keep in place .and also screw in the hose fitted to the oil can for filling .They are completely invisible, see my site .You must have a jet preferably on cylinder side ,for this size cylinders i would start with drill # 65 . Use light grade steam oil .I built 21 engines ,all have static lubricator ,they work fine for me while I respect other people opinion on mechanical verses static .

[mutley]

Reeves supply complete sight glasses with control valves if you dont want to make one. Not sure if they can supply the oil tanks as well but be aware they are very expensive.

Andy

[ivanj]

Thanks again for a comprehensive answer to my question. All I have to do is make it now and yes I like the idea of being able to vary the flow.