Tony K
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,573
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Post by Tony K on Feb 20, 2008 11:42:05 GMT
There is not much talk here of painting and finishing, especially since Chris's book. However, some models, especially smaller ones, maybe, only maybe, could be better painted using an airbrush.
I am currently painting a 3½" and considering airbrush.
I would be interested to hear of the experience of others with airbrush.
I wonder how a £25 one compares to a £100 one - are the dearer ones really for artists - do you really get what you pay for?
Over to you.
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russell
Statesman
Chain driven
Posts: 762
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Post by russell on Feb 20, 2008 13:52:31 GMT
I used an airbrush ot paint the chassis parts of my Simplex. You can see the results under the Simplex/Images section.
I started with a cheap (10 euro) one from Aldi and then bought one with a dual action trigger (push for air, pull back for paint) for about 30 euro from an Ebay supplier in Hong Kong.
The really cheap one is best for the larger areas while the dual action model gives finer control and can be used for special effects like spraying multiple fine coats of varnish onto matt paint for an eggshell finish.
I wouldn't spend a fortune on one.
Hope that helps, Russell.
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Post by GeorgeRay on Feb 20, 2008 16:26:58 GMT
I eventually painted my 5" gauge Boxhill using a Badger 200 underfeed airbrush. Thats the one with the little bottles. This worked well and I see no reason why it wouldn't work on a larger loco as well. The 200 can produce a spray up to 2" wide or down to 1/16" which I found quite adequate. I originally tried brush painting but ended up with some runs and brush marks probably through using a cheap brush so stripped it all off and started again with the Badger that I already had for 00 gauge railway painting..
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SteveW
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,398
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Post by SteveW on Feb 20, 2008 20:41:42 GMT
Tony,
I bought the more expensive airbrush from Machine Mart a while back (type as describes above) but started by using a Humbrol brand airbrush from my youth. This 'brush' uses the simple two jets design, horizontal for air, vertical for paint. Each jet a twiddle adjustments.
I sprayed both Hammerite special metals primer for copper & brass and smooth Hammerite, all thinned as recommended. I found using the airbrush far better/easier than the spray tins.
The Humbrol 'brush' was designed for tinned propellant and was the reason it never got used. I made an adapter to hang it off my compressor at around 40psi. The only problem being the sudden broken silence as the motor cuts in.
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Feb 21, 2008 9:24:25 GMT
Very nice engine George ,I like the detailed lamps ,did you make them? Do you remove the roof for running ?
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Post by GeorgeRay on Feb 21, 2008 16:59:17 GMT
Shawki Yes I made the lamps, still trying to get a button cell and LED arrangement to make them illuminate. The back half of the cab roof and back come off in one piece for driving. I must say that this is a loco that I bought, it was unpainted so only the paint job is mine. It is very well made some 18 years ago by E H Condon of the Brighouse and Halifax society and goes as well as I think it looks.
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PH
Seasoned Member
Posts: 112
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Post by PH on Feb 22, 2008 9:54:18 GMT
When (or if) you find a way to illuminate the lamps, could you let us know how you did it, particularly the references of the components? You're not alone in wondering how to make your lamps functional
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Post by chris vine on Feb 22, 2008 23:24:42 GMT
Hi PH,
I managed to get the lamps on Bongo (admittedly 7.25" gauge) to work with tiny flames.
It is very difficult to get to work and several things are critical. Mainly the fuel you use. I tried for a long time with cellulose thinners (dont tell h and s) because it can produce a really tiny white flame. (parrafin gives a blue flame when very small).
You need a tiny flame because the real difficulty is getting the air in there.
In the end I found that the heavier oils were best because they burn with a white flame when small and also heat the wick up much more. This is a great advantage because the flame does not blow out so easily if the wick is really hot.
I found that steam oil worked well for a bit but there is too much crud in it and it polutes the wick soon. Interestingly this was also the trouble with the cellulose thinner. After a while the flame would start to sputter. I think there must be some component which is non flammable which builds up in the tiny wick.
For a wick you can use a single strand out of a greenhouse parrafin heater, available as spares in B and Q.
In the end the best fuel I found was White Oil. This is a heavier than normal lamp oil and it is usually used in those citronella midge candles when the other chemicals have been added.
Getting the airflow right is tricky. too much and they blow out in a draught. Too little and the don't work!
All in all this was a real mugs' game but fun all the same.
The lenses to go in the little lost wax cast lamps were no good because they were made of perspex and melted with the heat. In the end I "found" some old fashioned road cats eyes. The glass bulls eye can be machined with a tungsten tipped tool to fit the lamp. The white ones are easy. The red ones for the back are more difficult because these cats eyes are only found on motorway slip roads.........
I will try to load up a photograph or two of them in action in the next day or so.
I would really love to see someone perfect this. Mine do work and will often burn for an hour or two if you put new wicks in. However they are far from hurricane proof. In particular up or down drafts near them will put them out in a moment. The trouble is that there is almost no store of air in the lamp and they are so short that there is very little chimney effect to drive the air through.
Clearly you cannot scale nature, but maybe someone will get a design which works well. I know that Cherry Hill has made some of the lamps on here (much smaller) traction engines work. However she told me that she had to keep the doors open to let enough air in. (her padlocks work too!)
Chris.
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Feb 23, 2008 8:49:12 GMT
I am glad I asked the question on lamps , I am not alone ,I like working lamps but all mine are dummy because I think they are too hard to make . I will follow this and see what happens . thank you George for the reply.
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PH
Seasoned Member
Posts: 112
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Post by PH on Feb 23, 2008 11:08:26 GMT
I wasn't thinking of anything as esoteric as a real oil lamp with a real flame - although hats off to you for having tried and succeeded.
I am simply looking for a white LED and battery, preferably rechargeable, but I can't find (haven't looked too hard) components the right size. Hence my question to George and others;
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Post by alanstepney on Feb 23, 2008 17:54:46 GMT
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Post by havoc on Feb 23, 2008 18:42:03 GMT
I bought a mid priced one with underfeed and dual action. Not yet used so far. Only thing I'm interested in is how easy to clean and how easy to get spares.
Chris, working oil lamps would be awesome. I'm waiting for your paragraphs.
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Tony K
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,573
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Post by Tony K on Feb 23, 2008 20:17:28 GMT
Thanks to Havoc, GeorgeRay, SteveW and russel - I will continue with airbrush, probably a cheaper one. The thread seems to have been taken over by oil lamps, but like Aristotle said - "every addition to the knowledge of man, is an expansion of the power of mankind"
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