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Post by modeng2000 on Mar 4, 2008 16:28:22 GMT
Can someone recommend a resist for use when silver soldering please?
John
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Post by alanstepney on Mar 4, 2008 16:56:42 GMT
Tippex.
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Post by mutley on Mar 4, 2008 16:56:43 GMT
Tipex.
Andy
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Post by modeng2000 on Mar 4, 2008 19:12:50 GMT
Brilliant, many thanks.
Things seem so easy when you know how!
John
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Mar 4, 2008 21:09:57 GMT
I've tried the trick of drawing around with a pencil on a few occasions but the results were variable - I think the flux lifted some of it. Tippex certainly sounds easier to apply and see!
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SteveW
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,399
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Post by SteveW on Mar 4, 2008 21:43:43 GMT
Guys,
The OLD type of Tipex. The 'safe' water soluble stuff is so useless I've not yet got it to white out anything.
I've also had some success with candle soot (as in light a candle and wave the bit in the top of the flame).
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Post by modeng2000 on Mar 4, 2008 22:08:13 GMT
I know of the 'useless' type of Tipex. I believe it was intended to be used on photocopied print so it didn't disolve the print.
John
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Post by houstonceng on Mar 4, 2008 22:09:17 GMT
I've used Plumber's Smudge.
It's very fine carbon particles (lamp black) in a sort of paste that you used to wipe onto lead pipes in the days when you made wiped joints with plumbers' solder (Now a banned process !). You dried it gently with the blow-lamp, then you scaped off the smudge where you wanted to solder to stick and left it where you didn't.
It's a better form of the pencil trick.
I've also used Tippex (solvent based). Works, but is a b&**£r to get off without solvent.
Useful if you want to selectively case-garden as well !
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Post by houstonceng on Mar 4, 2008 22:20:12 GMT
I know of the 'useless' type of Tipex. I believe it was intended to be used on photocopied print so it didn't disolve the print. John Sorry, I used solvent toppex on photocopied/laser printed documents and it works ok - if you give it one swipe and don't keep trying to stir it onto the paper. I designed machines for X£r*x and our copies didn't disolve. AFAIK it was to stop people sniffing solvent - especially kids. Like water based paints, it's about as effective in covering power as a chocolate fireguard is at stopping the heat. The local B&Q used to sell a great solvent based sealant paint. Great for stopping water stains coming through emulsion painted ceilings after a tank/pipe burst. Only downside is that you needed plenty of ventilation when applying it. Now they recommend - and only sell - water based sealants which, as you may guess, disolve water stains rather than sealing them. DOH ! |
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Mar 5, 2008 9:06:57 GMT
Has anyone tried chalk ? it does work and no side effect ,also cheap and safe .
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Post by havoc on Mar 5, 2008 11:37:11 GMT
Never tried any of those, but I like the chalk idea. Just ordinary school chalk will do?
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Mar 6, 2008 9:33:38 GMT
That is what I use , I was a tech teacher .
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Noddy
Statesman
Posts: 672
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Post by Noddy on Mar 6, 2008 12:56:49 GMT
That is what I use , I was a tech teacher . Does its use have anything to do with the was ?  Keith |
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Post by modeng2000 on Mar 6, 2008 19:35:09 GMT
Thanks Shawki, I used to use a blackboard and chalk.
I'll try chalk first. I have some tapped holes in a part to be silver soldered and want to keep the threads clear.
John
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Mar 7, 2008 8:02:33 GMT
No Keith but it means I still have some pieces of chalk in my possession and am making new use of it .
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abby
Statesman
Posts: 927
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Post by abby on Mar 7, 2008 19:19:57 GMT
graphite pencil
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Post by modeng2000 on Mar 12, 2008 7:08:00 GMT
Thanks for all the suggestions for solder for a silver resist.
I used chalk to fill some threaded holes and graphite pencil lines to stop any solder runs spreading away from the joint.
A complete success.
John
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