How to stop rust on the insides of cylinders?

[jamespetts]

How does one prevent rust building up on the insides of cast iron cylinders? I have noticed after running my Stuart Score for the first time that, when I remove the cylinder end plate to inspect the insides, there seems to be a little rust inside. It has not gone very deep yet, and I clean it off whenever I see it, using a cotton bud or kitchen roll, but I am concerned that, after a steaming, rust could easily form in the steam chest and cylinders and, in time, damage the engine. Is there a good way of preventing this?

[portbury]

I've not played much with stationary engines, is there a way of getting some steam oil into the exhaust? Normal procedure with my 5" Butch loco is to pump some steam oil down the blastpipe and push the loco backwards and forwards a little with the reverser in the opposite gear to the direction of travel. This has the effect of sucking the steam oil into the cylinders, which then coats the surfaces and prevents rusting.

How is the Stuart lubricated btw? Can you put and extra shot of steam oil into the steam line just before you finish running?

HTH

Cheers

Rich

[jamespetts]

You suggest using steam oil sucked through the steam line? That is a possibility: the engine is oiled by a displacement lubricator, so I could, perhaps, top up the lubricator to beyond the normal filling point, close the boiler valve, and turn the engine over forwards, hoping that some oil gets sucked in. Would it be steam oil, not preservative oil that should be sucked in?

Incidentally, should I store the engine with drain cocks open or closed?

Edit: I tried that, but it seems impossible to get the engine (cold at this stage) to suck in any significant quantity of the oil.

[chris vine]

Hi James,

I don't think you should worry too much. Cast Iron is funny stuff, it seems to rust in an instant and then does not rust too much more.

As long as the engine is lubricated when running, the oil gets into the porous cast iron and protects it.

On my 7.25" gauge loco, with cast iron cylinders and valves, I just put it away at the end of the summer and pull it out again after the winter. I don't put any extra oil in the cylinders and they never have even a hint of sticking.

If you are worried, I would just pour some steam oil down the exhaust pipe and turn the engine over backwards a few times until it makes squelchy noises....

Chris.

[jamespetts]

Chris,

thank you very much for the suggestion. Squirting oil in the exhaust line is difficult because I first have to remove the chimney - I did try that, however, and, although the oil was sucked along the pipe, none seemed to make it to the cylinders. I did try removing one side's valve chest cover and squirting oil in there, but that seemed a little excessive, really, and using more oil than warranted.

[baggo]

Hi James,

As Chris suggests, don't worry too much about the cylinders. As long as the lubricator is working ok and supplying enough oil to the cylinder, the residual oil left over from the last steaming should protect the cylinder and stop it rusting.

I've read a lot of ME articles over the last few years and I recall mention of cast iron cylinders being fine until the covers are taken off and 'fresh air' is allowed access to the cylinder surfaces which then appear to rust instantly.

If you are worried about the rust problem just turn the engine over now and again to spread the oil over the bore.

A chap at our local club brought his Black Five down for a test run after running it the previous day with no problems. This time it just would not turn over easily and even when pushing it down the track putting extra weight on the engine the wheels just skidded along the rails. After a bit of thought I suggested that one cylinder was tight and after removing the drain cocks (automatic) we squirted oil into the cylinder which immediately cured the problem. Turns out the lubricator was not working and on the previous days run had been relying on the condensed water in the cylinder to act as a lubrication. Leaving it overnight had caused the cylinder to partially seize due to lack of oil.

John

[ron]

James
I run mine for a short while on air while it is still hot from the steam, before I connect the air hose I squirt some oil into the inlet, I also agree with Baggo, once the engine has been run taking it apart isn't a good idea.
Ron

[jamespetts]

Thank you both for your replies - I shall have to remember to leave it sealed up after running it in future :-) Presumably that also means that I should store it with the drain cocks closed?

[circlip]

Wonder if this is what the tapped boss was for on the mystery engine??? Oiling the cylinder after running??

[Peter W.]

jamespetts said:

Thank you both for your replies - I shall have to remember to leave it sealed up after running it in future :-) Presumably that also means that I should store it with the drain cocks closed?

I've only built the one small engine (10V) so am still a beginner, but I've found that leaving the drain cocks open is fine.
I've never taken the head off, but turn the engine over occasionally, and it's always very free.

Whether I can do that if I ever finish my 5" loco remains to be seen !

[steammadman]

simple OIL IT

I've got an engine i made years ogo with "STEEL" cylinders,
not had it out for about 3years, just checked it, guess what?
NO RUST IN THE BORES

Good stuff this oil stuff