paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Mar 30, 2008 20:23:09 GMT
A while back a screw came off my Clarke CL300 lathe and with the aid of Baggo's genius was it replaced in it's rightful place underneath the 'far side' of the saddle. I've just noticed that the 'nearside' screws are now rather loose but it's not possible to tighten them with a standard hex wrench as there's not enough room above the leadscrew (and I probably couldn't get to the middle screw anyway). It looks like either the apron or the leadscrew will need to be removed to adjust/tighten them. does anyone have experience of this? (the bit about apron adjustment here myweb.tiscali.co.uk/silkstone/minilathe/minilathe01.htm is almost useful but not quite what I need).  |
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Post by havoc on Mar 30, 2008 20:36:14 GMT
Couldn't you use a long ball head hex wrench? Keeping the short side of the L under the apron, close to the tray?
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Mar 30, 2008 20:58:30 GMT
Couldn't you use a long ball head hex wrench? Keeping the short side of the L under the apron, close to the tray? Er, yeah possibly, if I knew what one of those was! |
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Smifffy
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Rock'n'Roll!
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Post by Smifffy on Mar 30, 2008 21:07:37 GMT
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Mar 30, 2008 21:38:23 GMT
Well, I've never seen that type of allen key before! If you were anywere near me I'd pop around, but Stafford ain't exactly local! Excuses, excuses...... ;D |
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Post by freddo on Mar 31, 2008 2:47:56 GMT
As this seems to be a recurring problem for you Paul, I suggest making a couple of custom tools for the job.
1) Buy a couple of allen keys the right size
2) Hold the short end of one in the vice, and with an extension lever on the long end, "twist" the key in the direction of tightening basically to make the short end half a flat out of alignment from where it started.
3) grind the short end of the twisted key and an untwisted one to make them short enough to enter the screw.
You will see that you won't get sufficient rotation of the screw with just a normal allen key, but alternating with the twisted one, it will work. A bit like the offset on an open-ended spanner where you can turn it over to get the other "half-flat" rotation.
Freddo
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steam4ian
Elder Statesman
One good turn deserves another
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Post by steam4ian on Mar 31, 2008 11:26:40 GMT
G'day Paul
Close the half nuts. Take the RH lead screw bearing off. Undo the two screws that hold the apron on to the saddle. Release the half nuts and slide the apron off the lead screw. You should now be able to access the screws.
A good time to check the saddle gib adjustment. AND
A good time to make a plate to keep swarf out of the apron gears.
Check the half nut operation and gib adjustment too.
Regards
Ian
Fellow 7x12 owner.
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Mar 31, 2008 16:33:36 GMT
As this seems to be a recurring problem for you Paul, I suggest making a couple of custom tools for the job... That's a good idea. Added to to-do list (almost as long as the to-buy list!) Would you suggest heating before twisting? Ian: Just the ticket - trying that now. I've already got a custom made plate  |
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Mar 31, 2008 16:56:45 GMT
OK the eagle has landed or rather the apron is off and it's a two minute job! Got those screws set ok and adjusted the gib strip. Suprised how clean the stuff is inside - the plate must be working well . Before I put it back together another question though: what I'd previously put down to play in the saddle may be mainly due to something else - if I grab the leadscrew I can pull it bodily about 1/4" towards the tailstock. Surely thats not right? I guess I need to take a peek inside the headstock end of things and see what's going on. While I'm on that end I have noticed that the machine seems a little nosier than when I first got it - does the spinny-bit have bearings that require lubrication? |
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Post by havoc on Mar 31, 2008 17:57:27 GMT
All rotating pieces need oil somewhere. Do you have a motor with an alu set of pulleys on? If so, check if they are still firm on the motor spindle. My lathe became noisier as well after a month or 2. One day the motor turned but nothing else.... Noise gone after tightening up some screws.
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Mar 31, 2008 20:15:58 GMT
The leadscrew narrows as it passes through the pillow block (I think that's what it's called) - it was obviously up tight against it when new as there's a broken yellow 'paint seal' on the two!  I managed to take up the slack by pushing the leadscrew toward the headstock end while tightening the block at the tail. It runs fine and there's much less slop in it now. Locking the half nuts does however cause the leadscrew to bow in slightly - I'm not sure if it did that before, maybe I need to move the apron back out a little... |
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steam4ian
Elder Statesman
One good turn deserves another
Posts: 2,069
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Post by steam4ian on Apr 1, 2008 2:12:47 GMT
"day Paul It takes a bit of juggling. The half nuts set the height of the pillow blocks and the pillow blocks space the LS out from the bed. Don't nip up the apron screws until you have the LS set for height and nipped up; move the apron to be true to the LS alignment. On another site there are instructions for setting up the half nuts on the Clark CL300 lathe. I should be working or I'd chase them up for you. BTW does the RH end of your LS have a retaining nut? If it does make sure you set it up correctly or it will bind and strip your gears. Been there, got the T shirt.  Regards, Ian |
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Apr 1, 2008 21:17:44 GMT
Cheers Ian. I've got it all set up just right now I think - there's no nut on the end of the leadscrew so no fear of that nastiness! I just needed to bring the apron toward me a bit. While I was at it I adjusted all the gib strips for the saddle,cross and top slides; it all seems much more rigid now.
Thanks again for the assistance ;D
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