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Post by petefj on Apr 5, 2008 14:36:43 GMT
I want to take up model engineering and need to buy a lathe. The machine that has caught my eye is a Warco BV20 to be seen at: www.warco.co.uk/shop.asp?catid=26&ProdId=192As I am a complete ignoramus and beginner, can anyone advise me if this machine would be suitable for small model making. I am interested in making a Stuart horizontal steam engine for starters. Many thanks, peter |
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Post by tweendecker on Apr 5, 2008 15:14:50 GMT
I want to take up model engineering and need to buy a lathe. The machine that has caught my eye is a Warco BV20 to be seen at: www.warco.co.uk/shop.asp?catid=26&ProdId=192As I am a complete ignoramus and beginner, can anyone advise me if this machine would be suitable for small model making. I am interested in making a Stuart horizontal steam engine for starters. Many thanks, peter Hello Petefj, I'm in a similar position to you,I have a Warco Minilathe and have bought the castings for a Stuart 10V. The only reason I decided on this particular Stuart was because you can buy a book to help you build it. Like yourself, I have no previous experience whatsoever of M.E. I just fancied jumping head first in to a new hobby !! If you fancy a chat my email address is there with my profile. good luck, tweendecker |
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Post by ron on Apr 5, 2008 20:16:39 GMT
Hi Peter
Welcome to the forum, I've used a BV20 now for about 3 years and would recommend it for what you want, I've built a 10V, Victoria and No9 using it, plus an almost completed Simplex and various other jobs outwith model engineering. It comes very well equipped and about the only thing I would complain about is the clumsy method of changing the chuck, 3 Allen screws from the back with a modified Allen key. I thought well enough of Warcos' stuff to buy a mill from them a year later.
Ron
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Post by modeng2000 on Apr 6, 2008 6:36:47 GMT
Just a comment about the chuck fixing on the BV20.
I have a Warco WM180 and the chuck is fixed by three studs with nuts and washers. My earlier Hobymat lathe used the same fixing method and so perhaps I have got used to it but find it quite easy to thread the nuts onto the studs and then an open-ended spanner is used to nip them up.
John
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Smifffy
Statesman
Rock'n'Roll!
Posts: 943
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Post by Smifffy on Apr 6, 2008 7:05:32 GMT
When I had my Model B, I just fitted studs to the chucks so that nuts could be used, rather than the allen keys.
It made a big difference!
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Post by ron on Apr 6, 2008 9:48:37 GMT
Yet another job I've still to get round to  Ron |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 6, 2008 12:49:55 GMT
I've got the WM240 lathe( basically the same machine but with variable speed), great machine, good service from Warco. Only thing I have found is I struggle on some operations by the limited cross slide travel.
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 7, 2008 10:26:17 GMT
HI
For what is worth my advice is the following :-
1- What type of models you are intending to build ?
2- What size of models you are going to build ?
3-Are you going to cut threads or use taps and dies ?
From the above you will conclude the centre hight ,the length of the bed ,and whether you need screw cutting capability .after all that consider you may change your mind and build a bigger model therefore add say 20% ,and then look for a lathe to suit .
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Post by petefj on Apr 12, 2008 11:27:38 GMT
I've got the WM240 lathe( basically the same machine but with variable speed), great machine, good service from Warco. Only thing I have found is I struggle on some operations by the limited cross slide travel. How about screw cutting and other operations. Any problems in general lathe useage? Peter |
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Post by ron on Apr 12, 2008 16:55:25 GMT
Hi Peter
It screw cuts fine, comes with both metric and imperial change wheels. I worked as a turner professionally many years ago and as far as I'm concerned value for money, these Warco lathes are excellent, there is better on the market but they are considerably more expensive and second hand lathes are a bit of a risk for a beginner unless you know someone who can help.
The only mistake I made was installing a pumped cooling system on it when I started out as I had been used to them on industrial lathes but they aren't really needed for model engineering stuff, too much bother to clean up after use, easier to use an aerosol of cutting fluid or a squeezy bottle.
Ron
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jasonb
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,209
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Post by jasonb on Apr 12, 2008 17:18:26 GMT
If you intend to make more stationary engines then the 200mm swing can be a bit limiting. There are a lot of engines available that have a flywheel around 9" diameter (max that will fit in a Myford gap) so it may be worth looking at something a little larger.
I also think that the BV20 does not have tee slots in the crossslide, this makes it difficult to mount components directly to it or to fit a vertical slide for milling work.
Jason
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Post by ron on Apr 12, 2008 18:38:04 GMT
The BV20 has two T slots in the cross slide, that's what I used to bore the cylinder mount on the ST No 9 baseplate. The only ST engine flywheel that won't fit the BV20 is the Major Beam, not really a beginners' engine though.
Ron
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jasonb
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,209
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Post by jasonb on Apr 12, 2008 19:18:46 GMT
It may have been the Axminster version of the lathe that does not have the slots (or their BV30) I know I saw one somewhere without any slots.
Agree that the majority of ST kits will fit but most of the ones from Reeves & Bruce Engineering (Anthony Mount) have flywheels around 9"
Jason
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