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Post by Malcolm on Apr 10, 2008 18:16:31 GMT
I am just making the stainless steel ashpan for my steam launch boiler. After abortive attempts (ie failures) to braze the seams, I have decided to use angle and rivets. Because it is to be a wet ashpan, the seams need to be waterproof as well as reasonably heat-resistant. Any ideas for a suitable jointing medium? I had thought of using Gun-gum or similar, but I don't think that it is waterproof.
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Post by circlip on Apr 10, 2008 18:31:44 GMT
Try Silver Soldering, or a visit to your local friendly bar/kitchen fitters welder. Ian
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Post by weldsol on Apr 10, 2008 19:19:07 GMT
TIG welding is the answer. Where abouts are you as I may be able to help
Paul
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Post by AndrewP on Apr 10, 2008 19:46:44 GMT
I had no end of trouble silver soldering stainless (and silver soldering is what I do for a living a lot of the time) until somebody pointed me to Tenacity no5 flux, that's a Johnson Matthey product, and it's a piece of p*** lot easier now. I use a high silver content hallmarking grade silver solder but that's just what I have around. Interestingly on the JM site they warn against brazed stainless steel joints on items exposed to water or water vapour because of a risk of failure by 'interfacial corrosion'. www.jm-metaljoining.com/applications-pages2.asp?pageid=4&id=116Try jewellery supply houses for stock, HS Walsh or Cooksons spring to mind, maybe even a good plumbers merchants.
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Post by chris vine on Apr 10, 2008 20:58:33 GMT
I found that silver solder (silverflo 55) melted on a stainless ashpan on a 7.25" gauge locomotive.
In the end I made some angle up and rivetted it.
I am sure you should talk to Paul Weldsol!!
Chris.
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Post by steamjohn248 on Apr 10, 2008 21:45:29 GMT
I am currently building a number of SS "trays" and tanks, including three ash pans, one for our 25' steam launch and two for 7 1/4" locos. If you are in a position to bring the job in I'll do it for you for a pint afterwards (I live in Maldon Essex). If not get 1/2 dozen SS welding rods and get someone with a 'stick' welder to weld it up for you (any car body shop, local blacksmith etc. could help).
Regards
John
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Post by Malcolm on Apr 11, 2008 19:13:22 GMT
Thanks very much for the offers, Paul and John, but I'm nowhere near either of you. One of the reasons that brazing failed was cracking of the stainless. Wouldn't the higher temperature of welding make matters worse? Silver soldering would, I think, fail if the cooling water evaporated. I still think rivetting is the way to go, but I do need to waterproof the joints.
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Post by albert on Apr 11, 2008 19:13:41 GMT
Hello All, Over the last few years (super close inspection /overall) I have replaced all my T/E ashpans with 0.125 thick stainless steel sheet,electric welded using stainless rods. Only problem is the weight of ash pan + cast iron grate when putting them back onto boiler. Bye Albert
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