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Post by Deleted on Oct 5, 2009 21:14:35 GMT
Smoke box and chimney.  My shoulder now aches from all that tin bashing so I thought I'd take a rest while I thought about the boiler assembly sequence. The smokebox was a nice little weekend job, so here are a few pics: First job was the little 'trumpet' and chimney liner out of 1" thin brass tube. I tried a piece of lead to start with but I preferred to bash it out over the large steel bar shown in the picture. It had to be annealed four times to bring it out to 1.5" diameter. The aluminium holder made life a bit easier.  Door ring casting was made a drive fit in the smokebox and protected with tape. The 2" square gadget was straightforward, ensuring the alignment was spot on, otherwise the chimney would be as drunk as I am some nights.....  Turning the chimney out of bronze was OK, but the base has to be eased to fit the smokebox contour. The blank is loctited to the mandrel and lifted off later with a bit of heat. I took this approach with my largest side and face cutter to machine out most of the material, and finished it off by rubbing the base on emery placed on the smokebox itself. I think I mentioned in another post that you can't do this type of set up with some vertical mills.  Chimney in place on the smokebox. It's to the drawing but it looks a bit high/bulky to me. What do you think? Perhaps it's the perspective fooling me. Next job: combustion chamber! JB  |
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Post by drjohn on Oct 5, 2009 23:03:49 GMT
.... It's to the drawing but it looks a bit high/bulky to me. What do you think? Perhaps it's the perspective fooling me. Hi JB You seem to have forgotten to deal with the skirt - the thickness of the side bits should follow the contour of the smokebox if you understand what I mean - perhaps someone else can put that more succinctly  Here's a pic of the chimney on a black 5 which shows you how much filing you still have to do ;D ;D  DJ Still no facility for posting pictures on this general bit of the forum!  |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2009 6:30:32 GMT
Silly me! Thanks DJ. It's my age: I've forgotten how to deal with a little piece of skirt..... JB 12.00. Is this better? As I've said, I'm a fitter/machinist, not a loco builder, but I'm learning! Are there any more sneaky bits like that?  |
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redmog
Part of the e-furniture
Not Morgan weather
Posts: 461 
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Post by redmog on Oct 6, 2009 14:11:45 GMT
A Nice Bit of Skirt.
JB.
Very nicely done!
Is that just skill of the file or is there any technique we should know.
And so quickly too.
Chris
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Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2009 14:43:45 GMT
Thanks Chris. No technique I'm afraid, just the result of spending a whole year of my apprenticeship with just a file in my hand. The speed is the result of once having to earn my living at it!
JB
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Post by welshy on Oct 6, 2009 15:58:37 GMT
Hi John its really starting to look like a proper loco now nice model
keep up the good work.
I hope to get some pics of my Stirling on the forum soon, once i have sorted out some assembly problems, most of the parts are made i just need to put them together without resorting to a lump hammer as there are very tight clearances due to the design of the original but its all part of the fun.
Mike
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Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2009 18:31:41 GMT
Smokebox saddle beckoned because I wanted to see if the boiler was in its rightful position: it is! Once the GLR casting had been machined to fit the gap in the frames I used the RDG boring head for the first time (I've had it for 15 months!). It's OK but I discarded the tools that came with it. For two reasons: the rakes and clearances were not to my liking, i.e. not enough!, and more importantly, the shanks aren't hardened properly, like most stuff from that neck of the woods, so as soon as the allen screw is tightened up to clamp the tool, the tool marks up and can't be removed without a struggle! The shank has then to be fettled up before it can be used again. I just bunged a square shank left-hand knife tool in the thing..... One of the nice things about the MaximatV10P is the power feed in both directions when milling.  It was left in the vice and the spindle set vertical to machine around the edges.  Saddle in place in the frame: I might just fettle the casting to get that edge parallel.......!  |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 6, 2009 22:34:39 GMT
i just need to put them together without resorting to a lump hammer Mike Mike, you've been supporting me all through this, but do you mean there is another way I hadn't thought of? |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2010 12:41:07 GMT
Just got round to doing some more work on the Brit after a long break. I've found that it's too easy to become a distracted butterfly when you get to this advanced stage: lots of interesting things to do and too many unfinished bits! I'm making the door as close to scale as I can get: ie. the door is fitted into a recess, but I haven't gone as far as making a taper joint.....! The lugs are screwed into the ring, thus permitting adjustment on the seal. I don't like those rivet heads on the cast hinges: has anyone ever filed them off and put new ones in? Calling all rivet counters!In the absence of any LBSC instructions, how many rivets go around the front of the smokebox, and what diameter should they be? Looking at photos I'm guessing at around 80, but I might as well get it right! The chimney is just a push fit at the moment.....   |
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Post by welshy on Apr 16, 2010 21:03:01 GMT
Looks good jb, nice to see you back on here showing more progress.
Mike
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Post by drjohn on Apr 17, 2010 2:27:42 GMT
Calling all rivet counters!In the absence of any LBSC instructions, how many rivets go around the front of the smokebox, and what diameter should they be? Looking at photos I'm guessing at around 80, but I might as well get it right! The chimney is just a push fit at the moment..... Those dummy rivets on the hinges are a bit out of scale -  I only did 48 rivets on simplex, but here's a view of the back end of my 5" britannia somkebox - start counting! ![]() dr-john.org/images-web/gallery/smaller/macness - 9.jpg[/img] Nice to see you're back at it while waiting for the third boiler! ;D ;D DJ |
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Post by mutley on Apr 17, 2010 17:53:29 GMT
Third boiler?! Not problems with the the second one surely?
Andy
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Post by Deleted on Apr 17, 2010 19:21:42 GMT
Third boiler?! Not problems with the the second one surely? Andy There are no problems with my current boiler: it fits perfectly and looks the biz! JB |
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Post by alanstepney on Apr 17, 2010 19:27:42 GMT
All I can tell you regarding the correct number of rivets, is that no matter how many you fit, there will ALWAYS be someone to tell you that it is wrong.
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Post by drjohn on Apr 18, 2010 6:34:21 GMT
I was only pulling your plonk JB - someone has to, or you get carried away!!
Get your speedo's (ozzies have come up with a new word for them now - "budgie smugglers" - maybe in your case, cockroach smugglers! Lol!) dry cleaned - S.o.F in a couple of weeks or so??? ;D ;D
DJ
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Post by silverfox on Apr 18, 2010 17:14:26 GMT
Simply
I have tried to put a pic of my brit chimbley but it doesnt look like it arrived, please email me and i will send it to you
Regards
Ron (the other one)
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 19, 2010 13:44:01 GMT
JB & DJ , you guys are doing a great job, I wish I can put so much detail on my engines , haven't got the patience like you  , those that count the rivets don't make anything , so who cares about them ? ;D . In this hobby in my opinion if the builder is satisfied and happy , that is all that matter . |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 22, 2010 17:07:53 GMT
Jewellery session finishedAll actuating components now made in stainless steel, including the cross bar. I made a punch to do the 0.0844 square hole in the dart sleeve, but it soon broke. Filing that 1/4" long square hole tried my patience and my skill! I'll fill the odd scratch with hi-temp solder while I'm waiting for the GLR (5/32" globe!) handrail stanchions. The wonder of Autocad polar arrays tells me that 71 x 1/16" rivets with a pitch of 0.200" will go around nicely, leaving a gap of 3/32"between the heads. Isn't Cupalloys solder paste wonderful? I can't see the join!  
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 23, 2010 8:58:06 GMT
All looks fine JB , I bet you are looking forward for the BIG day . All the best .
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Post by Deleted on Apr 30, 2010 14:55:40 GMT
How do other people hide their nuts? The regulator is installed and the actuating rod comes out in the right place. Unfortunately, to me anyway, it looks terrible! By the time I fit the recommended hex gland nut it will be a boil on a Brit bum! I might turn down the end a bit and fit a small 'C' nut locating into a dummy support plate made from 20g brass. Any suggestions? The regulator cover was made from thin plate with a sq. hole in it covered by a thicker plate, and bent on a large dia bar. On reflection it might have been easier to machine around the edge of a piece of 1/8"......! There will be a boiler band at the rear of the smokebox which will hold the double row of dressmaker's pins rivets. One week left in which to finish it! I might take the chimney with me and fix it: it'll be the only bit of topless skirt I'll be allowed to play with..... JB 
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, those that count the rivets don't make anything , so who cares about them ? ;D . In this hobby in my opinion if the builder is satisfied and happy , that is all that matter .