Soldering Brass Beading

[drumkilbo]

Prompted by Baggo's thread about the search for beading...what is the best solder and flux to use for joining beading to the edge of a tender. I've had reasonable success with comsol on small areas, like a cab roof, but with the big area of a tender side am I better to heat the whole thing to avoid warping or go for a low temp solder?
Any help would be much appreciated.

Ian.

[baggo]

Hi Ian,

I've used the Carrs 145 detailing solder (as used for etched brass kits) with success. Use the appropriate Carrs flux or just Bakers Fluid or phosphoric acid (if you can get it). I've also used 60/40 electronics flux cored solder but the flux residue can be a pain to clean off afterwards.

I use the 145 for sealing tanks as well as the lower temperature means less chance of distortion.

John

[jasonb]

When I did my Minnie I just used plumbers solder and a large electric iron. The 2" Fowler I have just done the tender on again used plumbers solder but the beading is rivited at 5/8" intervals. There are some pics in teh road steam section.

Jason

[drumkilbo]

Thanks John and Jason, I'll look into both options, still admiring those pics Jason.

Ian.

[Shawki Shlemon]

I shape the the beading and hold it in place using SS split pins as clamps , I use baker fluid and 50/50 solder ( solder will not stick on SS ) , I use small gas torch run along the beading and finally remove any extra solder using a HSS 1/4" square lathe tool fitted in a file handle to scrape the extra . works fine .

[drumkilbo]

A useful tip, thanks Shawki.

[cupalloys]

Minimize the risk of distortion by soft soldering.
Somethings else to consider !

Appearance can be improved by painting 60/40 soft solder onto the components - or use a 62/38 paste with a flux whose residues are non corrosive.

On stainless steel use a silver tin solder with a suitable flux core for the stainless. After polishing you wont see the alloy.

Or if using a tin lead solder use a suitable flux like 2207.

In all cases put the solder on the inside of the beading and heat from the outside. The solder will melt and flow towards the heat leaving neat filllets.

All products available at www.cupalloys.co.uk.

Cheers

Keith

[drumkilbo]

Thanks Keith, particularly like the tip about heating from the outside.

Ian.