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Post by chris vine on Feb 3, 2011 11:29:12 GMT
Hi JB,
I think it happens to all of us somewhere.
When building Bongo, I had a problem with the cab too. I started to build all the substructure for the cab from some works drawings which I had been given. The trouble was that the motion was still Martin Evans' Roedeer design at that stage.
He had made the motion much too wide. His design showed the running plates much narrower than the motion so it all stuck out sideways and looked nothing like the original.
It wasn't possible to widen the running plates because then all my hard work on the cab foundations would be for nothing. And I had already built the tender!
The only way round it was to narrow all the motion and motion bracket till it all fit together.
One useful tip maybe: Often there is a feature which uses up some vital space. In my case this was a small step outwards in the running plate by the cab. This used up some of the very tight clearance. I found that the feature could still be included, but the step is 3/32" when true scale would be 5/32". However nobody has noticed this yet!!
The point is that a feature or shape can be included, but not necessarily exactly to scale.
Keep on going and don't let anybody spoil your fun.....
Chris.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 3, 2011 19:13:53 GMT
Cab Reverser Today's job was interesting, and unlike the cab, not too challenging! However, how I'm supposed to drive it using that little 1" wheel is beyond me. The drawing calls for 3/16" material everywhere, but the wheel support bracket has been thinned a bit as it was far too massive for my taste. The gear wheels are slightly oversize, but needs must....! The spokes need cleaning out and polishing, as does the whole surface, but I'm saving jobs like that for when I'm sunning myself on the boat! JB There was nothing particularly clever to describe, but here are a few pics: The bearing supports were shaped in the Proxxon and bored/parted off in the 4 jaw. I found out later that one of the bearing supports was required to be completely different from the one I made... This is the thing assembled up. You can see where i had to make a 3/16" insert to make up the gap! Wheel in Dural getting it's spokes (it polishes so nicely!) Back in the lathe and parting off at an angle - it helps to make lots of steps at the back whilst doing it. Stainless handle made in Tel's collet chuck! - Dead handy that...
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Post by Deleted on Feb 4, 2011 18:53:46 GMT
Window Surround SolderingI was going to try Shawki's method with some stainless split pins, but I'm blowed if I could find mine. Being a nautical type I've probably lost them in a bilge somewhere. Making the surrounds the right size and shape is one thing: getting them in the right place is another! It was difficult to photograph the process, as it only involved a 30W soldering iron, some Baker's Fluid, some resin cored solder I had left over from 1975 when I was in an electronics factory, and a bit of wood to hold the things down! The end result is here: it looks alright when it's lying down - now where have I heard that before....! Standing up you can see that while the bottom is spot on, the top of the RH frame tends downwards, so it will have to come off. I will probably clamp some guidance rails on the cab sides next time. Things are getting a little tedious....
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Post by Deleted on Feb 5, 2011 12:43:26 GMT
I don't think I'm going to get these any better than this, though someone else might. It's like French Polishing. You can't teach someone, to learn it you just have to do it! A touch of Milliput on the joints and all will be well. I've just noticed the slightly high roof line on the RH piece. Something else to fix! JB
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ace
Statesman
Posts: 528
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Post by ace on Feb 5, 2011 19:13:59 GMT
Hi JB, Try taking the pictures from about 8ft away..... it will look OK then. Only joking, looks fine to me and I'm sure when its had a few coats of paint it will look even better. ;D ace
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Post by Deleted on Feb 5, 2011 19:24:33 GMT
Hi JB, Try taking the pictures from about 8ft away..... it will look OK then. Only joking, looks fine to me and I'm sure when its had a few coats of paint it will look even better. ;D ace Ace. Talking of paint, I just tried a bit of the Precision Paint dull BR green on a piece of steel. It looks like dull green mud! I don't like it much, so I might just go out and get some bright Brunswick Green gloss. Or even get it stove enamelled! My inexperience is showing here, as I didn't allow enough room for the window surround when I drilled the rivet holes at the rear of the cab side. The rivet head clears the surround, but there is no way to get a snap in. Luckily, it's not a loaded area, so I'll probably use Araldite to fix the rivets for the door/seat back supports.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2011 11:16:29 GMT
Hi JB, have you considered making up a snap head from BMS flat bar small enough to fit with the hole machined close to one edge. Looking at the pictures it looks possible. The cab looks great, I'm looking forward to seeing it once fitted together. As you say if all else fails there's no loading so dummy rivets will do just as well, I have one hex head like that .. Pete
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2011 12:49:29 GMT
Hi JB, have you considered making up a snap head from BMS flat bar small enough to fit with the hole machined close to one edge. Looking at the pictures it looks possible. The cab looks great, I'm looking forward to seeing it once fitted together. As you say if all else fails there's no loading so dummy rivets will do just as well, I have one hex head like that .. Pete This is effectively what one of the blokes did at the evening classes that I attend. He had loads (several hundred as I recall) of rivets to do that were in some 1/4" brass angle (so pretty close to the angle itself). He took a standard snap of the correct size and ground down the end on one side to a flat that was very close to the snap "dimple" (if you get my drift). He had no problem and it worked a treat. Regards, A
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2011 13:07:36 GMT
Thanks guys, I might just try that. I have only the one 'proper' snap and I'm reluctant to grind that off, but I could make one just for this job. JB
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2011 18:04:06 GMT
Roof panel was hacked out with the the jeweller's saw over a paper template. If you are careful and keep to the lines only minor clean up is necessary, and the cutout can be used as the sliding panel. If you are not careful you will be making a new panel and all that that entails! 24g stainless rails being centre-drilled. I used thinner stuff to start with, but as soon as I started to rivet it, it turned into a good imitation of an Alton Towers switchback ride! The roof rivet holes were drilled on the Proxxon at 10mm pitch, and same adopted here. By using this method with an over length rail you are bound to get holes that line up. The rails were guillotined on the 3 in 1. The excess length was cut off afterwards. If you see any 'extra' pops it's where I counted six turns instead of five.... Finished job, using 3/64"steel rivets, cut off flush on the inside with pincers to leave a small raised portion, and a ball pein hammer used to produce a small head sufficient to hold the rails. Once again, it isn't perfect, as the rails are just a little wide, and there is the odd ding from the edge of the snap, but it will do. As others have said, a lick of paint will improve matters, and the thin rails will largely disappear into the background (Ihope!). Do I need a nice little wind breaker cowl at the front? ? JB PS. It didn't turn into a Pagoda this time!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 7, 2011 21:50:07 GMT
This is a far as I got before I was called away to rip out the downstairs loo in anticipation of getting me to fit a new suite! I know the window is too deep, as is the base of the panel: I just wanted to get a feel for the shape before duty called! I tried paper templates: were too soft Plasticard: was too springy 1mm hobby 3ply: perfect!
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Post by Deleted on Feb 9, 2011 17:17:25 GMT
I've just returned from Trestan Finishers and lined up the bodywork for stove enamelling. Velly cheap! Question: Which Brunswick Green semi-gloss for 70004 Bill Shakespeare? BS 381C 225 (light), or 226 (mid)? My preference is for the lighter colour!
Thanks JB
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Post by Deleted on Feb 9, 2011 21:40:35 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Feb 9, 2011 21:55:20 GMT
It certainly looks very grim JB, plus the fact that there's only one picture and that's a bad one should be a big warning to stay well clear. Pete Edit: oh sorry should have checked the description before making comment, mind you having now done do it looks even worse.. Edit 2: well I have now taken a good look at the photos and have to say I'm shocked at how bad the thing really is. How can anyone describe this loco as well engineered? I bet there are all sorts of nightmares awaiting anyone that buys this. I judge things by looks as well as how well it works, to me if the body looks badly put together then you can bet the mechanics will be worse.
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Post by fostergp6nhp on Feb 9, 2011 22:46:07 GMT
I've just returned from Trestan Finishers and lined up the bodywork for stove enamelling. Velly cheap! Question: Which Brunswick Green semi-gloss for 70004 Bill Shakespeare? BS 381C 225 (light), or 226 (mid)? My preference is for the lighter colour! Thanks JB If you want to be correct about the colour its not Brunswick Green but Middle Chrome Green. The brunswick green is a very often repeated error. A good friend of mine extensivly researched the colour with an original paint supplier and samples from museum exhibits at the old Swindon museum that had been painted by BR and the GWR and not steamed since. The recipe for Middle Chrome Green is in lead based paint, British Racing Green with 5% by weight of Lead Chrome pigment added.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 9, 2011 23:46:10 GMT
If you want to be correct about the colour its not Brunswick Green but Middle Chrome Green. Thanks, that's really helpful. I've looked up the BS charts and found only Deep Chrome Green, which to my unpracticed eye, looks quite similar to Deep Brunswick Green! I'll talk with the painters about this.... JB
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2011 15:25:58 GMT
RH Front Panel loosely fitted with a drop of Superglue. I have to say that was the trickiest piece of metal that I have ever had to fashion! The rivets are a bit close to the edge, but it will have to do as I've had enough of this pfaffing about. Still, I should count my blessings as it doesn't look as bad as that abortion currently on ebay! Looking from the front the proportions seem to be reasonably OK. I hope that it will satisfy the Doom Merchants! The offending panel! It will be soldered at the top using the little attached peg. and rivetted at the side. I just have to make another one now..... JB
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Post by fostergp6nhp on Feb 10, 2011 16:16:48 GMT
If you want to be correct about the colour its not Brunswick Green but Middle Chrome Green. Thanks, that's really helpful. I've looked up the BS charts and found only Deep Chrome Green, which to my unpracticed eye, looks quite similar to Deep Brunswick Green! I'll talk with the painters about this.... JB The middle brunswick thing probably came about as it was the closest available off the shelf colour to the middle chrome brew. The middle chrome with varnish as would have been used by the GWR/BR has in some light conditions a gold hint i the colour that mid brunswick dosn't have.
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redmog
Part of the e-furniture
Not Morgan weather
Posts: 461
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Post by redmog on Feb 10, 2011 17:12:43 GMT
Looking from the front the proportions seem to be reasonably OK. I hope that it will satisfy the Doom Merchants! It looks great JB. **** the Doom Merchants Chris
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Post by Deleted on Feb 10, 2011 18:00:50 GMT
I agree with Chris in both cases.. Very nice JB, top job Pete
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