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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2011 17:36:50 GMT
Started the cab today. I find that the boiler backhead width is well oversize at the base, and with my added cladding I will be making a fat cab! I spent quite some time making a nice SS 16g. inner bracket to support the cab floor. When I tried to fit the bracket it was pointing skywards! Turns out the drawing is, apparently, miles out, shown by my pencil line. The backhead face angle on this drawing is much less than the actual angle, but the bracket has been drawn to fit the drawing...... I made a thin revised version and traced the required shape in pencil on the drawing below. Trouble is, the inner bracket at this length won't support the whole length of the cab floor, so what am I doing wrong? Has anyone made this bracket and encountered similar problems? JB
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2011 18:46:44 GMT
Hi JB, looking at your last picture it appears you may be able to lower the bracket without getting in the way of anything, in fact looking at the first picture of the drawing it looks like the bracket comes down flush with the bottom. if this is the case then can you widen the cab bracket section that attaches to the backhead , in doing so this would then allow a longer reach with the folded side wings. Hoping i explained myself well enough.. Pete edit:.. just noticed your last edit..lol
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Post by Deleted on Jan 9, 2011 19:06:45 GMT
Thanks for the input Pete, I've created another post to get over that problem....! I've made a thin dummy bracket to get the pattern, it has to be 'butterflied' downwards to get the required length. Bit worrying though..... JB
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2011 20:27:05 GMT
Managed to make the cab floor blank this afternoon, having first made a new mounting bracket.....! Trusty AUTOCAD 1:1 print used to get the 15 deg. angle for the new bracket. Bracket bent up and mounted using csk screws in the rear of the backhead. Calipers were used to get the right cladding width 1.5" into the sides. Once I'd got the size I could make another template for attachment to the SS blank with double sided tape. I'm just testing for fit here. The bracket was made to drawing but it's too long..... Finished Cab Floor, not yet attached. I've left 1mm clearance on the wrapper as I don't want to scratch any paint when mounting it. It won't be seen anyway. I'll probably find out later (as usual) that I should have cut all sorts of holes and slots in it before I attach it to the bracket. Any advice in this regard will be well received! JB
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Post by Deleted on Jan 10, 2011 20:43:53 GMT
Hi JB I can't give any advice ad I haven't reached that stage yet myself but Ivan say it's looking very good mate. Nice workmanship
Pete
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Post by Deleted on Jan 11, 2011 18:31:36 GMT
Head scratching time this afternoon. I've made the patterns to the drawing, but, as usual, I'm not happy! For example, there is no way that the cab front extends that far in real life! I shall land up shortening it I think. First job was a temporary guide stuck on the roof. Next job see if the cab sides sit square and vertical. I've seen too many droopy cabs so this one is going to be right! Hopefully...Options on the roof and sides are: Make the sides, and fit the top in one piece as per LBSC Make the sides and top in two pieces joined in the middle a la Modelworks Make the whole thing in one piece and butterfly it over the top. I'm tempted to do the last as all I have to do is rivet a rain gutter over the windows. Has anyone ever done this?JB
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Post by Deleted on Jan 11, 2011 22:44:52 GMT
I have been studying the original over a few G & T's, and I now realise why I'm unhappy about this cab! LBSC in his wisdom has simplified the making to largely eliminate compound curves and certain elegant joins. For example, the curve on the roof should be much flatter than specified: that's why my little piece on the top looks too big, daft even, although it is taken straight from the drawing. The forward slope of the front window is extended down to the running board, but should stop at the bottom of the side window, etc. etc. To complicate matters, my cladding has altered height and other proportions so a rethink is necessary. I shall have a few more gins and attack the Autocad. Expect some changes on the morrow! JB
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Jan 12, 2011 8:17:14 GMT
JB , I think about easy maintenance , I normally do the third option but I have done the first option as well before .
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Post by Deleted on Jan 12, 2011 22:53:33 GMT
I've done my fiddling with the cab profile, and made a pair of cab sides which slope in 1/8" at the top. Unfortunately I have only 20g or 26g stainless, so these 20g ones are a bit thicker than I would like. However, they sit OK on the floor, and they add a bit of weight to the back end! Sides are held on with double sided tape until I get the roof to fit nicely when they will be riveted with very tiny rivets.... JB.
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Post by Deleted on Jan 15, 2011 17:03:15 GMT
Time to put his hat on! 20g Stainless steel. The Proxxon is excellent for little jobs like this, spacing the rivets accurately at 10mm. The centre drill makes a perfect hole for 3/64" rivets so that minimal marking out is required and no need to change to a twist drill to size the holes. Cutting the 'ventilation' aperture. I have found that if I accurately line up a bit of HSS on the desired line, and just file down to it, it makes life very easy! I might just have to make it full length if I ever want to drive the thing... New hat! I'm quite please with the shape as it seems more like the original. It's only held together with double sided at the moment, but I've had to stop as I've just sliced a lump off the end of my thumb..... JB
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Jan 16, 2011 9:07:22 GMT
Looks very good and will look better with you behind it on the track , hopefully soon .
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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2011 9:20:22 GMT
Thanks Shawki, but 'soon' is a relative word! I might get to a working chassis before I go off to my plutobarge in the Spring, but painting and detail finishing will probably have to wait until next Winter. At least it won't go rusty in the meantime! JB
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Post by drumkilbo on Jan 16, 2011 10:18:27 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Jan 16, 2011 17:41:07 GMT
OK, OK, petards and hoisted come to mind.... I'm retired: time no longer has any meaning, but 'next year' could mean this winter. Then I remembered I still have to make the ruddy tender!$%! On the subject of time. I have all the time in the world to waste: I just can't stand anyone else wasting it for me! JB
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2011 18:08:23 GMT
This is a brave shot! I suppose it will all line up when the rivets are in and the roof lifts up a bit! I normally uses chain drilling for apertures, but I've ordered a jeweller's saw and some Vallorbe No.2 blades to do the windows. We shall see how I get on with stainless steel..... I made the folded LBSC reverser bracket: it's lying in disgrace on the footplate! The much nicer fabricated version with a table top is stuck on the cab side. Predictably, the Cupalloys paste didn't work on the stainless, but I had some special flux and that worked fine. JB
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Post by Deleted on Jan 17, 2011 18:31:01 GMT
Looking very good JB, lovely work... Pete
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Post by Deleted on Jan 19, 2011 19:50:25 GMT
The adjustable jewellers' saw and the Vallorbe 2/0 blades have been received and tested: a (fragile) knife through butter comes to mind. How did I ever get by without this bit of kit? Chain drilling is now on the back burner.... The attrition rate on the learning curve was high, especially when cutting inside apertures such as windows! I broke two blades just inserting the blade through the drilled hole and setting the tension. I can see why they can be bought by the gross! I'll try and post some demo pics tomorrow.
I've dropped the SS cabin sides in favour of some 22g MS: I screwed up one piece and found I didn't have enough material to finish the job! JB
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Post by AndrewP on Jan 20, 2011 0:17:59 GMT
Welcome to the frustrating world of the jewellers saw JB 2/0 blades ? huge great thick things try 6/0 for an exercise in futility. Seriously, when it comes right it's like meditation, wipe the blade through a candle every now and then - I have a de-cased tea light fastened to the bench all the time. If the work is held down with the fingers rather than in a vise there is less chance of snapping the blade, if you are quick Cheers, Andy
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2011 9:03:13 GMT
Welcome to the frustrating world of the jewellers saw JB Cheers, Andy Andy 6/0? That must be like using a human hair! I found an old fretsaw peg in a dusty corner of my workshop that seems to work. I'll nick one of Jan's tea lights..... JB
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Post by Deleted on Jan 20, 2011 11:11:04 GMT
Hey JB just noticed your avatar, I agree far to expensive, I'm glad mines off the road for an engine rebuild, with a tank size of 80 ltrs and using 97+ Ron well it's an arm and a leg to fill her at over £100 and that would only last me 4 days to and from work.... Missing my car... Pete
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