Daniel
Involved Member
Posts: 80
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Post by Daniel on Nov 18, 2011 16:13:43 GMT
Hello all,
I have recently acquired a second hand riding truck and I have taken out the original wooden water tank and I am looking to install my own. The previous water tank was made out of wood but it was sealed with some sort of fibre glue it looked like. The trouble is, I can’t find anything that appears to be similar that I can seal a wooden water tank with. Have thought about making a metal one but with the price of metal it seemed easier and more straight forward to make a wooden one.
Does anyone have any recommendations?
Kind Regards
Daniel
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Post by rodwilson on Nov 18, 2011 16:38:48 GMT
Would silicone or mastic work?
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Post by leighsailor on Nov 18, 2011 17:08:53 GMT
Hi, how about epoxy coating the inside, as well as glueing it together with epoxy.
regards
leighsteamer
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2011 17:14:01 GMT
Petseal will do it, it's basically a low viscosity fibreglass resin that once mixed can be swooshed around the inside of the tank ( be it wood or metal) to achieve a watertight seal.
You'll find it readily available on eBay.
Regards
Pete
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2011 18:01:41 GMT
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Post by Tel on Nov 18, 2011 18:49:50 GMT
.. or the traditional ha'penneth of tar!
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Post by durhambuilder on Nov 18, 2011 18:59:19 GMT
You can buy squashy water carriers from any decent camping shop, depending on the size of your truck you may find something to fit.
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Post by tombayford on Nov 18, 2011 19:08:58 GMT
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Post by albert on Nov 18, 2011 19:17:06 GMT
Hello,
I make my riding car water tank out of a thrown out copper domestic hot water tank.
Cut the top and bottom off--cut down the seam and roll it flat with the garden roller.
You then have a sheet of copper about 5 foot square.
Albert.
PS about the original question you can get fibre glass matting and resin from a car accessories shop.
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pault
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,497
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Post by pault on Nov 18, 2011 20:44:47 GMT
Hi All
Pop down to the local pound shop and find a plastic food box with a lid that fits in your riding truck hay presto an everlasting water tank.
Regards
Paul
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Post by goldstar31 on Nov 18, 2011 22:03:57 GMT
For years, a wooden boat hull will sit in the sea or river with nothing more than paint to stop it sinking.
What is the problem, please?
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Smifffy
Statesman
Rock'n'Roll!
Posts: 943
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Post by Smifffy on Nov 18, 2011 22:54:10 GMT
....just like this little beauty: Attachments:
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Smifffy
Statesman
Rock'n'Roll!
Posts: 943
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Post by Smifffy on Nov 18, 2011 22:54:46 GMT
..ok, ok, I'm being flippant :-)
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Post by goldstar31 on Nov 18, 2011 23:25:14 GMT
But where is the painter?
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Uzzy
Hi-poster
Posts: 153
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Post by Uzzy on Nov 19, 2011 0:32:13 GMT
Daniel,
THat sort of paint is whats used to repair guttering etc or any Aqua Seal / bitumen paint would work I would think
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Nov 19, 2011 7:24:09 GMT
Like Paul says , I have one riding carriage fitted with hidden plastic container for water , been there for at least 10 years , nor rust , no leaks , very cheap and easy to clean . ;D
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pault
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,497
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Post by pault on Nov 19, 2011 11:44:00 GMT
Hi All,
Just a word of caution about bitumen paints. A friend who can remove the top of his tender tank painted the inside of the tank with bitumen paint, let it dry, refitted the tank top, and steamed his loco. Very quickly he had no working injectors and had to drop the fire. It turned out that when he painted the tank he had filled some of the screw holes for the screws that hold the tank top on with bitumen paint. Not a problem when refitting the top, just wind the screws into the paint its very soft. Unfortunately you then push small lumps of bitumen into the water. Where it becomes a real problem is when these lumps reach the injectors, they melt and coat the inside of the cones, and it’s a real pain to clean them. I’m not saying don’t use the paint, just tap out any holes like the ones described and remove the debris before fitting the top. All that said it does work well.
Regards
Paul
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Post by fostergp6nhp on Nov 19, 2011 17:49:01 GMT
Or have effective filters on the feed inlets.
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greensands
Part of the e-furniture
Building a Don Young 5" Black Five
Posts: 409
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Post by greensands on Nov 20, 2011 12:07:42 GMT
Hi - I have made up a 5" gauge tender tank in brass for my Black Five having a removable base plate along the lines proposed by Tony Allcock in his design for Galatea, the idea being that on final assembly, the base plate is screwed into place using 10BA screws spaced at around 1.5" intervals before final application of a sealant. However in my case I have chosen to retro fit a tender hand pump to appease the local boiler inspector (the engine will be fitted with a couple of injectors) but access to the pump will now only be from the bottom plate as a removable top plate, the normal means of access to the pump is not currently an option.
This means that ideally, any sealant I use for the bottom plate needs to be relatively easy to remove in case the pump need attention. Has anyone had to face this problem and if so, what would be the preferred types of sealant ?
Regards
Reg
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