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Post by fredvv44 on Oct 11, 2014 22:44:03 GMT
Hi, I'm new to the group and I have just bought a 15 year old set of quarry Hunslet castings. I got 15 sheets of drawings but I see on Reeves web site that they sell 17 sheets. Can anyone tell me what the other two sheets have on them?
I am in the US and will build this to 7.5" ga. and would also be interested in any suggestions and drawing errors that I should be aware of.
Thanks,
Fred V
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Post by marshall5 on Oct 12, 2014 1:46:03 GMT
Hi Fred and welcome. I have a 4" scale Milner Hunslet but I didn't build it so am not aware of any errors on the drawings, I have, however, recently replaced the original steel boiler with a copper one. Speaking to Reeves I found out that, whilst the steel boiler was all on one sheet the copper one was spread across two (which I purchased) so that might account for the discrepancy. As far as I can see mine was built to the drawings but I changed the disc in tube regulator (throttle to you!) for a 1/2" right angled ball valve which was supposed be steam rated but wasn't and it now has a screw down valve. I spend several months a year in Idaho so please keep in touch. Regards Ray.
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Post by ejparrott on Oct 12, 2014 8:10:48 GMT
What drawings are missing rather depends on what drawings you have....
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Post by fredvv44 on Oct 12, 2014 13:52:49 GMT
What drawings are missing rather depends on what drawings you have.... Think Ray answered it. I have 1-15 so I imagine 16 and 17 are for the copper boiler. I'll build a steel one so I'm OK with what I have. thanks, Fred P.S. I saw the posts of the ball valve regulator and the copper boiler is beautiful. |
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Post by fredvv44 on Oct 12, 2014 14:00:52 GMT
A quick note of my background. This will be my 6th engine build. They have all been British style freelance designs. I've always loved all things British and have owned about every British sports car made. I visited there in '03, visited 17 different railways and after seeing Moorsvalley I had to build a ride in cab engine.
Fred
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Post by fredvv44 on Oct 31, 2014 17:06:15 GMT
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Post by ejparrott on Oct 31, 2014 17:11:27 GMT
Looks like some kind of separate seat, maybe a water tank?
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Post by fredvv44 on Oct 31, 2014 22:30:19 GMT
My guess is that the two inner panels would form the forward water legs of a water tank and form a coal bunker. The strange part is the narrow rear panel. Maybe the first builder planned to make corner parts but that is not typical.
I think I'll have to make a new rear panel. I don't intend to make a water tank but a low seat instead and a coal bunker on the right side of the engine.
The 4 "S" curved pieces are really a puzzle. What would those be for?
Fred
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Post by mwfanwy on Nov 1, 2014 19:05:01 GMT
I am building a Milner Hunslet at the moment from original Milner drawings dated March 1978, although I have made a few changes including using a 90 degree ball valve as the regulator. I have the steel boiler drawing, but acquired a new commercial John Ellis copper boiler made to the same outside dimensions. Somewhere on here are the photos of my engine I uploaded a while ago showing the internals with the regulator.
To answer you queries, if you let me know what drawings you have, I'll check against mine and see if I have one you don't! A mistake I did find is that the main steam pipe is shown as 1/2 inch OD, with the boss in the front tube plate shown as 3/8 BSP female but the Enots fitting specified does not have enough "meat" to be bored to pass 1/2 inch OD tube. Fortunately I was able to open out the tube plate boss to 1/2 inch BSP and use the Enots fittings specified. (Yesthey are still available!) It passed a club pressure test a few months ago. Doing it again, I would make bronze LG2 fittings from scratch.
I would hazard a guess that the parts shown in the tender are for a separate internal water tank, whilst another guess for the "s" curved parts are the frames for scale steps?? I designed and made a longer steel fabricated tender with a separate 4 wheel chassis as having mocked it up, the size of the one drawn put my knees under my chin! The tender is not quite completed yet and I'm considering putting the tender body onto short wheelbase bogies to allow for a foot well to be let into the tender base. Regards.........Mwfanwy
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Post by marshall5 on Nov 2, 2014 18:04:43 GMT
Hi Fred, I strongly suggest you fit a water tank in your Hunslet tender. I seldom use the saddle tank as the water in the tender keeps much cooler for the injectors and is enough for up to 3 hours running on its own. If it's any help I can send you a sketch and photos.
Cheers Ray.
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Post by fredvv44 on Nov 2, 2014 19:09:17 GMT
Hi Fred, I strongly suggest you fit a water tank in your Hunslet tender. I seldom use the saddle tank as the water in the tender keeps much cooler for the injectors and is enough for up to 3 hours running on its own. If it's any help I can send you a sketch and photos. Cheers Ray. Thanks Ray. You are right about the hot water. I built a Sweet William to look like a Wren and had problems with the English style injector. I found this photo which would satisfy both of my needs: cold water and a sit-in-tender seat. s1153.photobucket.com/user/fredvv44/media/Hunslet_Robert1St_Nicolas_School_Fair_Merstam.jpg.htmlFred V |
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Post by mwfanwy on Nov 3, 2014 19:16:40 GMT
On my engine, the saddle tank will be connected to a hand pump purely to act as an emergency top up if both injectors fail. Both injectors (one 4 pint/min, one 2.5 pint/min) will be fed from the tender. If you don't want to feed from the saddle tank, at least the water would give useful additional weight for adhesion.
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Post by fredvv44 on Nov 4, 2014 13:52:15 GMT
Hi Fred, I strongly suggest you fit a water tank in your Hunslet tender. I seldom use the saddle tank as the water in the tender keeps much cooler for the injectors and is enough for up to 3 hours running on its own. If it's any help I can send you a sketch and photos. Cheers Ray. Thanks Ray. If you wouldn't mind I'd like to see what you did to give me ideas to play with. My email address is fredntoni AT cox.net I rode the Isle of Man RR when I was over there in '03. Beautiful island. Fred V |
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Post by marshall5 on Nov 4, 2014 22:06:10 GMT
Photos and sketch sent. Glad to help. Ray.
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Post by fredvv44 on Dec 15, 2014 23:48:10 GMT
Another question:
I started on the cylinders and I'm trying to figure out the best way to lay out the 10 5/16" holes. The port passages are off by 1/16" from one cylinder to the other. Also the prints show the port in the frame to be 1.3125" while the ports in the port plate is 1". Should I machine the ports in the cylinder casting or leave them alone? The ports are also cockeyed on one of the cylinders.
Thanks,
Fred V
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Post by ejparrott on Dec 16, 2014 9:30:21 GMT
Would you be able to post a photo of the drawing?
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Post by fredvv44 on Dec 16, 2014 15:21:00 GMT
I haven't been able to upload pix on the forum so I put them here: s1153.photobucket.com/user/fredvv44/media/frame.png.html?sort=3&o=0You can see that the ports do not show on the cyl. drawing except in a side view. The frame and port block drawings show different sizes for the ports. I might assume the larger ones on the frame allow for cyl. mounting errors. Fred V |
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Post by ejparrott on Dec 17, 2014 9:58:23 GMT
Right, with you now!
Personally, I would match the holes in the frame with the holes in the blocks. You'll need to have a look at all the parts and measure carefully, then I would tickle the casting so the ports were the same on both sides, then machine the frame plates to suit. I don't quite know why he specified the holes in the frame the way he did, I guess it was just a case of sticking a slot drill in and waggling it about, leaving the parallel portion the same as the castings should be. You need these passages to be well formed so the exhaust steam can get out smoothly.
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Dec 17, 2014 10:21:15 GMT
hi fred,
a lot depends on how good you want the loco to be. you can tailor the valves to suit the ports if you know what you are doing.
i am very fond of the fullsize Hunslet quarry locos, and don young produced a very good design in 5"g.
from my own experience of one of the 7.25"g Milner type locos, the method of bolting on the weird circular steam chest is awful, the tubes in the barrel are too small, and the valve gear is seriously bad (direct drive launch links and with no suspension offset on the links, and a very short lap on the valves). the very long passages between cylinder bore and port face result in a huge clearance volume. it would also be a better design in 7.25"g if the boiler were fitted with superheaters as the exhaust steam is very wet.
by the way that is a fantastic car in your workshop/garage! very impressive piece of work!
cheers,
julian
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Post by fredvv44 on Dec 17, 2014 13:27:54 GMT
Thanks guys. Any suggestions on things that will make it a better engine are always welcome. I do plan to make a radiant type superheater (see the photobucket link again). A friend has used these with great success. I will also insulate the port block/steamchest. I imagine the frame acts as a big heat sink.
I tried to put the valve gear into the Dockstader simulator program but couldn't figure out how to make the direct drive work. Is there another program that will work?
Fred V
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