monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on Oct 28, 2014 11:01:08 GMT
I also seem to waste a lot of water when using my injector out of the overflow pipe... I think I might do another steam up tommorow... I will see hows my works going Marc
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Midland
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,870
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Post by Midland on Oct 28, 2014 11:01:44 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Oct 28, 2014 11:07:32 GMT
Too many cylinders and wrong colour too!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 28, 2014 11:46:33 GMT
To many wheels, eh ??------------I feel I must draw your attention to the Mc.Gonnegal & O'leary prototype 0-2-0.....Initially they were built to run in pairs, thus giving a 0-2-0 + 0-2-0 configuration.....Buffer-lock was a constant problem as was the 2 crews constantly arguing as to who was in charge !!....No known photographs survive but an American cousin of Ferdinand O'leary Jnr. built a copy before the patent rights came into force >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ---------------------------Eventually they were declared surplus to requirements and sold to I K Brunel who used them as test dummies on his newly laid atmospheric Railway... where they were shot out to sea to calculate the forces on the sliding piston >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Post by smallbrother on Oct 28, 2014 12:03:49 GMT
With the lubricator, have you turned the flow of steam and oil right down during the run?
I have just cleaned mine out and refilled the glass with glycerine. The valves are open just enough to allow a droplet of oil to appear every few seconds. I haven't run the loco enough to see if this is a sensible rate of oiling.
Remember to open the drain valve periodically and then close all the valves at the end of the run as the oil will still flow.
Pete.
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on Oct 28, 2014 12:19:23 GMT
Yep, I've managed to get a drop every 5 seconds or so, but I think while at the track last weekend the oil droplet valve were open way too much, I was too stressed to look . It sounds like a sensible amount, I was recommended one every 5-10 seconds. Does glycerine work just fine for you? I was recommended to make this complicated solution, but if just glyercine works then thats what I'll do! I still need to find some syringes for oil; i've just one for steam oil, but it can only hole 1ml! So, it takes rather a long time to fill my tank up . Its just weird how the liquid is now black, I hope some soot hasnt got in! Unfortunately, when screwing back the cap on of the tank, it think I missed the thread; and now the cap only goes in that way, although it seemed to work fine luckily. Do you have a donkey pump on your polly? I'm think I might get one for my simplex; as it should work at a wider range of pressures, and waste less water than the injector. Marc
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Post by smallbrother on Oct 28, 2014 12:46:45 GMT
Julian recommended glycerine to me and if its good enough for his locos its good for me! I haven't driven it enough yet to know if it stays clear after a decent run.
I have the original (and now quite old) axle pump on the Polly, as well as injector and hand pump. It took me quite a few goes to sort out the axle pump. It is awkward to get at but several goes at cleaning and some new balls have done the trick (for now anyway!)
I think I would give your injector a good soak in citric acid and ensure the water supply is air-free. Also, experiment with the flow of water to the injector. Take the clack valves off and clean the balls - or re-new.
Above all, you can't go wrong with a good bright fire of good depth. You should not need to rake the fire for an hour or two if things are going correctly. Your Simplex appears to be very good so I think it just needs you to get used to it.
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on Oct 28, 2014 13:00:26 GMT
Yep, all problems are my own fault. Luckily a good friend in South Africa cleaned all clack valves and pump balls for me, they shouldn't need touching for a while im hoping. Annoying, its impossible to oil the axleboxes and axle pump for me. Last weekend the pump finally had it first drops of oil under my ownership, because I had steaming bays. For the axle boxes, I just stick my oil can nozzle inbetween the rims and hope. Something I will defintely have to do if I ever strip the loco is add oil cups, as the design recommends. What I do with my injector, is sray WD40 after each run. I have never thought of not opening the water tap all the way, because at first it couldnt suck up enough water.. now it can. Maybe I'll light a fire tomorrow and test it, although it is probably better is a dedicate my engine time tomorrow finding some hardwood for sleepers, will be amazing to test it on rails without having to drive somewhere! Marc
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Post by Deleted on Oct 28, 2014 13:10:42 GMT
Quote}--- "will be amazing to test it on rails without having to drive somewhere!" -------------- yes, that's true enough....That's why I just bought this track from E-bay >>>>>>>>>>>>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Oct 28, 2014 13:23:06 GMT
hi marc,
just a few suggestions
1. for steam oil you need a good quality oil can with a decent pump on it such as the 'Reilang 2'. not cheap, but will last you a lifetime
2. your injector water supply arrangement is a bit of a bodge, and suspect this is why water is continually dripping from the overflow. you need to sort out a proper water container which should have a proper valve on it and a FILTER!
3. it is possible to use a syringe to remove oil from the sight glasses but it's a very fiddly and awkward business and wont guarantee a clean glass. clean the pipes and add some freezer bag tags behind the union nuts to stop them disappearing along the pipes. carefully undo the union nuts avoiding twisting the body and breaking the glass. remove the sight glass assembly then flush out and clean with warm soapy water or cellulose thinner. (at the same time paint outside of the back of the glasses with white enamel paint). refill with ordinary glycerine and re-assemble making sure the connections and inside of the unions are clean.
4. immediately after a steam up and before pressure drops and you drop the fire the needle valves at the base of the sight glasses must be closed(plus the valve below on your loco), and the steam valve supplying steam to the displacement tank must be closed. do not open the drain valve to the displacement tank or unscrew the filler cap to the tank under any circumstances unless all these valves are firmly shut, and they must remain shut till working steam pressure is raised again on the next steam up (when they should be opened in the following order of steam to displacement tank, valve below the sight glass assembly, then the needle valves)
5. the only time i use the fire pricker is to pull out the dumping pin for the grate. if i see anyone using a rake or fire pricker on the fire i take it off them
6. donkey pumps are extremely expensive to buy, and very fiddly to make. you always ought to have a spare injector in your tool box anyway especially if you have no filter on the water supply!
cheers, julian
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Post by smallbrother on Oct 28, 2014 13:35:40 GMT
Yep, all problems are my own fault. Luckily a good friend in South Africa cleaned all clack valves and pump balls for me, they shouldn't need touching for a while im hoping. Annoying, its impossible to oil the axleboxes and axle pump for me. Last weekend the pump finally had it first drops of oil under my ownership, because I had steaming bays. For the axle boxes, I just stick my oil can nozzle inbetween the rims and hope. Something I will defintely have to do if I ever strip the loco is add oil cups, as the design recommends. What I do with my injector, is sray WD40 after each run. I have never thought of not opening the water tap all the way, because at first it couldnt suck up enough water.. now it can. Maybe I'll light a fire tomorrow and test it, although it is probably better is a dedicate my engine time tomorrow finding some hardwood for sleepers, will be amazing to test it on rails without having to drive somewhere! Marc Have a look through the spokes of the wheels to see if you can get at the tops of the axle boxes.
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gwr7800
Part of the e-furniture
Member of Portsmouth mes
Posts: 384
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Post by gwr7800 on Oct 28, 2014 14:42:45 GMT
Someone's a lucky chap with his own track! How did you get permission for that Alan ?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 28, 2014 15:23:46 GMT
I WEAR THE TROUSERS IN OUR HOUSE !!----------------- ( when she lets me that is. )
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on Oct 28, 2014 16:35:04 GMT
Julian, nice tips there, thanks a lot. I did not know I shouldn't have opened the filler cap without closing everything, I was wondering why I was getting air bubbles. My basic oil can at the moment it seeming to do the trick at pumping steam oil, didnt at first but now it does. Since i've done already all the things you said not to do, how do I retreive it? I think your right about the rake; when I did do it I lost the base of my fire. Only problem is what happens if clinker forms? Luckily so far though I haven't had any formed yet from the first 4 steam ups. Do you have any ideas for water containers and valves? What I've seems to be the only working solution so far. That looks like lovely track, must have cost a fortune, raised as well! I've just met up with one of my steam friends, and he said he will lend me 10m of track this winter until I have my own. Very kind of him! But this means I will be able to get to know my loco a bit better without any pressure Marc
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Post by Deleted on Oct 28, 2014 18:19:12 GMT
Quote}--- "get to know my loco a bit better without any pressure :"D you'll need 80 psi at least !!
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
|
Post by monkeyhero97 on Oct 28, 2014 18:25:11 GMT
haha good one!
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Post by smallbrother on Oct 28, 2014 18:53:42 GMT
Marc, you shouldn't get any clinker to speak of for hours.
I usually run for about 3 hours and have none at all.
Mid run I give the fire a poke to see what's going on and to level it out. It also gives my backside a rest as I have to kneel down to see the fire. I try and do this off the main line so other locos can run.
I am going to make a new brass tank for my small trolley for raised track. I will use brass angle to form the corners and will try mastic to stick it together, no solder, screws etc. I tried to pull some mastic(ed) brass apart a few weeks ago and couldn't budge it.
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on Oct 28, 2014 19:22:53 GMT
Ahh yes, making a brass tank; good idea. Although, I do not see whats wrong with my plastic container if I can get it too work well. Only slight problem is it can only hold 5 litres, but the tap is put off the ground to increase gravity, so I loose one litre. The boiler is 3.08 litres, but I suppose if I'm not running on a 1 mile long circuit, 4 litres is just fine. And when I do run there, I just need to make sure I make a second setup, or have another water container in my brakevan to store. I must add a filter though, maybe a petrol filter will do just fine. It doesn't look the part, but hopefully with a bit of fiddiling it will work just fine! Marc
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Post by GWR 101 on Oct 28, 2014 19:34:35 GMT
Hi I saw one the other day constructed from plywood outer lined with fiberglass owner said he had made it several years ago and had no problems. Regards Paul
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monkeyhero97
Part of the e-furniture
Got a 7 1/4" Stafford and 2 1/2" WD 2-10-0, building Ayesha and thinking about Q1.
Posts: 423
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Post by monkeyhero97 on Oct 28, 2014 23:25:52 GMT
Since i've managed to source a test track for the winter, I'm going to get a few goodies for my loco, instead of making a track. So, I'm keen on using maidstone-engineering as my supplier. They seem extremely kind and helpful. I did ask them for advice regarding my rail motor boiler, and I ended up having a pleasant, long conversation with him. Their blower looks the part, so i think its the best option out there. I do have my air adapter, but I wont be able to use that on my test track. I do not have a garden so I will lay the track down a few yards away from my house, where there is no electricity for the compressor. Flux, solder and gauze is all on the list, gauze as the water filter for injector. Now... I'm going to ask for advice regarding transfers. How exactly would I apply them? What products do I need? My other problem, is choosing the transfers! . I'm all for giving my simplex a BR look, so naturally I will get the cycling lion for the side tanks, and the BR numbers. However, what I really think will boost my loco's appearance is lining, but I'm not sure which lines to go for. They only seems to have light grey, black/orange and black/white. Anyone have any ideas for lining? Marc
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