flyingfox
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Post by flyingfox on May 20, 2024 15:36:37 GMT
Greetings Mightyradical, you have found that machining hornblocks not to be as easy as everyone tells you it is. Well done for your efforts so far. If you have no DRO fitted to your mill, you need to measure carefully from each edge and only remove a small amount of materialat each pass, so that you can control how much you can cut from each side. A set square, based on one edge of your milling table will also help in getting the cut even down the length of the horn. I think you will find Harold Hall's book on milling useful, and finally you will get plenty of advice, some good, from your local Model Engineering club, where you should latch onto a member who is still building, or who has built decent models. Regards Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on Mar 27, 2024 7:43:19 GMT
Looking good Adam. Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on Mar 9, 2024 17:59:56 GMT
This is a very interesting and useful drawing, kindly made available by Steve. Regards Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on Mar 7, 2024 16:09:23 GMT
Matty, I am Norfolk by adoption, being born in Surrey. I run at Parklands railway, a private 71/4 track in Hemsby, although I am both a Norwich Soc of ME and Halesworth Club member. You would be most welcome at Parklands on Easter Sun morning and every Sun morning after that. I live in Acle. regards Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on Mar 6, 2024 16:17:24 GMT
Welcome Matty, there are a couple of interesting threads on the "Speedy" design on at the moment, I am sure you will find them interesting. regards Brian B (a Norfolk Boy)
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Post by flyingfox on Feb 21, 2024 12:17:10 GMT
Don't worry Adam you will get more workshop time, once the Wedding is over! Regards Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on Feb 4, 2024 7:52:28 GMT
That explains it Johan, I have run on the old Antwerp track, in a park, 5 inch elevated track, miles away from the model boat pond which I think was part of the club. Does the new track include a 71/4 railway? Regards Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on Feb 3, 2024 16:26:41 GMT
Greetings Johan, welcome to the group, hope you will find it interesting. Is the Brussels track to close, very sad if it is, a have enjoyed my visits very much. Regards Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on Feb 1, 2024 8:14:56 GMT
Julian. I thought he turned down the solid drawn tube, on a mandrel, to the thickness he wanted. Or is that old age creeping in? Regards Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on Jan 24, 2024 8:07:40 GMT
Greetings, a long time ago, when I closed my office, I "bagged" the remaining stock of correction fluid, not Tippex, but a cheaper brand, and it is white. I have 2 bottles left, and mixed with a little water & alcohol keep fluid. I think graphite is a no no. Never tried the strip. What about marking blue/fluid, that might work, and should be removeable?
Regards Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on Jan 23, 2024 14:25:31 GMT
Greetings, I have always used typewriter correction fluid for this job, being clay based it washes of easily afterwards. Hard part is getting any. regards Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on Jan 17, 2024 8:16:24 GMT
Great that you have joined us Martin, whereabouts are you located? Regards Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on Jan 8, 2024 8:22:40 GMT
Greetings, whilst "Borderer" is quite correct in what he is saying, I have built a 3.5 and 71/4 gauge Bantam Cock, both locos performed well.
I would also draw your attention to the "Colchester" Design which was increased from 5 in to 71/4 gauge, Paul P in west Wales has built 4 of these, and also is making 2 off 71/4 Bantam Cocks.
I am also in the early stages of building a 71/4 gauge version of the late Martin Evans's "Jubliee" a 31/2 gauge Stanier 2-6-4, and hope to submit an article to ME about it.
Whilst data for the wheels, axles and valve gear are easily available, I would strongly advise caution in scaling up a boiler design yourself, I have mine made by Paul at Southern Boilers, who redesigns them to correct standards.
Finally, I use 2.054 as the multiplier to scale up dimensions from 3 1/2to 7 1/4. Also be prepared to juggle when using metric stock instead of imperial sizes.
Regards
Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on Jan 4, 2024 16:22:04 GMT
Very fine Adam, looks good. Regards Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on Dec 11, 2023 16:29:34 GMT
Well done Adam, a story of triumph over adversity. Regards Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on Nov 13, 2023 12:15:19 GMT
Greetings Greg, I think the thread that you proposed in metric size would be OK to use, but I think you would be better off with a shallower angle say 25 or 30 degrees which would a bigger "opening" into the wet header feed pipe.
Regards Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on Nov 7, 2023 16:26:23 GMT
Greetings Adam, like you I love the A4 class, my 71/4 version is finished, not steamed, and because of my failing health & old age is now for sale, as will my A3 when our local track goes at the end of 2024. I love the livery carried by Silver Fox, but knowing one other grey loco, it needs some work to keep it clean, even the big ones suffered on that score, but it is superb.
Re superheaters, the concentric type are very poor, the incoming cooler steam wastes heat trying to cool the out going warmer steam, both my A4 & A3 have them, and I would like to change them to spearhead radiant type. The A3 exhaust is always "woolly" and the loco does not have the punch the other A4 I have driven with the spearhead radiant type, even though the valve gear was set by the same man.
Regards
Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on Nov 2, 2023 16:21:07 GMT
I use a green scouring pad. regards Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on Nov 1, 2023 12:27:39 GMT
Greetings Greg, that was mighty a strong concentration, and it would have worked a lot better hot. The excess acid actually pacifies the copper and makes it more difficult to clean. regards Brian B
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Post by flyingfox on Oct 29, 2023 7:13:57 GMT
Hi Chris, I use a level table spoon per litre for boiler pickling, and that is as strong as you need. high temperatures help the process, and if making a boiler, I add some more Citric Acid towards the end of the boiler build.
Regards
Brian B
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