uuu
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Post by uuu on Mar 9, 2024 7:27:25 GMT
I'm a big fan of three-phase motors and inverters. Yes, this could mean more expense, but I've had success sourcing these on ebay. My current lathe has a lovely Siemens motor - new-old-stock - and a fine Mitsubishi inverter, second hand, but fully working. I've had half a dozen of the same inverter - all off ebay. Patience is needed - there are many listings at silly money, but wait a bit and the right one will come up cheap.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Mar 8, 2024 10:24:29 GMT
For the valvegears I've been playing with, I use File-SaveAsDimensions before closing. This creates a .dso file with all the settings - then I use File-OpenDimensions to retrieve them later. This allows me to save multiple versions of the design I'm working on.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Mar 7, 2024 7:49:12 GMT
I run Docksteader on my Windows 10 machine with no problems.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Feb 26, 2024 9:04:30 GMT
And - here's an illustration from Don Ashton's page ( web.archive.org/web/20190919220645/http://www.donashton.co.uk/html/stephenson_s_gear.html): Where he says: "...The illustration shows wrong thinking on two scores. Firstly, the square symmetry of the reversing arrangement cannot accommodate angularity errors at all..." And - here's the killer quote: "...Therefore the lifting link is highly unlikely to be vertical, though few traction engine designers seemed to realise this!..." Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Feb 26, 2024 8:47:29 GMT
I don't think the lifting link has to be vertical. I can't find evidence of your arrangement, but a locomotive example below is not vertical: And here's another, not quite upright: Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Feb 17, 2024 21:14:17 GMT
Your new friends as the club are likely to have some ideas.
Me: I'd try making some studs out of slightly oversize rod, cut with a split die that's been stretched right out - see if it fits better.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Feb 13, 2024 8:53:50 GMT
For splitting the ring, see this YouTube video, about 19 minutes in: www.youtube.com/watch?v=7L4rNagoOzoHe files a small groove, then uses pliers. I've done it like this too. You can alternatively stretch it to snap by filing the groove, then sliding it down a taper- morse taper perhaps. Having a zero gap will mean your wedge stretches the ring a bit wider, which should help. Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Feb 2, 2024 19:05:57 GMT
I was trying to evaluate the effect of a superheater and the expansion you mentioned did complicate things. The steam tables work on the weight of the steam used, one cylinder-full of superheated steam weighs less than the same volume of wet steam. So the extra energy per unit is offset by that. But even if those two effects balanced, you still got a benefit in the reduced amount of water used.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Feb 1, 2024 10:41:21 GMT
Hi Chris
I can see that friction in an ordinary pipe would be a bad thing. The walls of the pipe would be heated, and the heat lost to atmosphere. But in a superheater, bathed in hot gases, or in the raging furnace, where is the heat generated by the friction to go?.
I can still believe it's a bad thing. But maybe not for so obvious reasons.
Fluid flow is indeed tricky.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Jan 31, 2024 19:06:22 GMT
I might be being daft, but will the pressure not drop due to the increased volume of the superheaters compared to the pipework anyway? As noted, fluid flow can be tricky. In a carburettor, or a steam injector, a constriction in the pipe work - the venturi, or the first cone - causes a drop in pressure. So increasing the cross-section of a pipe can cause an increase in the pressure. Of course, at the other end of the device, if you return to the same cross-section you had before, the effect will be reversed. As happens in the steam injector, where the final expanding cone delivers the water at higher than boiler pressure. Wilf
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Post by uuu on Jan 27, 2024 20:12:31 GMT
In a concentric superheater, you are "losing" heat to the incoming steam? How is this heat escaping, please - where is it going, such that it is considered "lost"?
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Jan 15, 2024 12:23:06 GMT
I agree it looks excessive. If you could make bungs for the holes, you could experiment with their number. Or a slotted disc, retained by the blast nozzle.
Three or four open holes would be my guess for a reasonable result.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Jan 8, 2024 21:32:30 GMT
It might affect the mild pop action. Your task, should you decide to accept it, is to make your pair one of each end of the range, test them, and report back on the results.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Jan 6, 2024 8:56:01 GMT
When John and I were cutting Clupet piston rings at the Pump House, we found a thin saw deflected off line if we tried to take the cut in one go. Taking a shallow cut first created a trough to guide the cutter on the second go, and produced a straight result.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Jan 2, 2024 17:16:06 GMT
Many of us like Silicon Nitride balls, available from ebay at very little cost. They're rustproof - and really round, really hard.
Wilf
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Dec 18, 2023 18:02:03 GMT
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Post by uuu on Dec 16, 2023 15:18:56 GMT
It gets bigger when hot! Hopefully not that much bigger.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Dec 15, 2023 16:54:47 GMT
On my Myford 254, the headstock gears, spindle bearings (taper rollers), the thread-cutting gearbox and the apron all use the same ISO68 grade oil. That's what's specified so it's very easy for me.
Have you tried calling the chap at Lathes.co.uk? His website is a mine of information, and he may have access to documentation which goes further than is shown.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Dec 14, 2023 17:49:19 GMT
Could you fix the buffer stocks with a central spigot and big nut - ensuring they're nice and strong for when people try to lift the loco by its buffers? Then the 6BA and 8BA fasteners can be just cosmetic and threaded into the buffer stocks only.
Which is another way of saying I've no idea how to drill the small holes.
Wilf
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Post by uuu on Dec 9, 2023 17:27:39 GMT
You need to cut down the number of variables here. Ideally you should test the injector on someone else's loco with compatible pipework. If it works, then your pipework is to blame, if it doesn't then you can start to play with the injector itself. And/or - borrow a known good injector and try it on your setup.
Wilf
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