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Post by 92220 on Feb 11, 2023 12:14:21 GMT
Hi Roger. Definitely fiddly work!!!! Well done. If you want a collet that will tighten down to 0.5mm, these people can supply:- littlemachineshop.com/info/er_collet_sizes.phpThey can supply collets to fit the ER11 and ER16 chucks. Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Feb 9, 2023 8:56:56 GMT
OOps!!! We just looked at the thread title, not the date!! Thanks for pointing it out George.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Feb 8, 2023 15:09:16 GMT
Can we have a photo or photos, of the Microflame torch that the cylinders are being searched for? We are model engineers and used to finding unusual ways to perform standard jobs. I have looked for Microflame torches on the 'net and have found 2 or 3 different designs. One of which has hoses, which if the OP is looking for gas cylinders to fit this kind of torch, there are at least 3 ways to get over the problem of "none on the market". Even the kind of torch that has the cylinders fitted directly to it, and the actual torch is part of the assembly, can be fed via 'after market' miniature hose, and adaptor fitting, from standard gas cylinders.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Feb 7, 2023 17:54:27 GMT
Hi Keith. Have a look at what I did to rotate my 9F. It is relatively cheap to make and you can probably modify what I did to make it even cheaper, though try to keep the strength up. This is the link to my description on the forum, with photos... modeleng.proboards.com/thread/11583/5-evening-star-works-drawings?page=13 As yours is a finished loco, you can modify the clamping, for your loco, by using a long piece of steel flat, both ends of the frames, with threaded rods clamping, outside the loco frames, rather than between the frames like mine. Good luck with getting the draughting sorted. Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Feb 7, 2023 10:55:43 GMT
Hi Adam. That lubricator casting really does look "The bee's knees". Will you be producing a casting for the 12 outlet lubricator that fits on the other side? If so, please can I put my name down for a set of castings. Bob. Hi Bob, This is the 12 feed set, I believe the 9f should have a 12 and 16 feed but as I had two sets of 12s and you really can’t see them I decided I’d go with what I have. Adam Hi Adam. Sorry. Even at ten to four in the afternoon, I obviously haven't yet woken up!!!! The fingers did mean to type 16 but ended up typing 12!! Unfortunately I am not in a position to sack them!!! Being realistic; you are right. You can't actually see the different sizes of lubricator without very careful viewing, from an almost impossible angle, when the loco is on it's wheels. I must admit I hadn't thought about it because I haven't got the running boards done yet, so the fact that the inner end of the tank is hidden, hadn't dawned on me!! Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Feb 6, 2023 15:52:43 GMT
Hi Adam. That lubricator casting really does look "The bee's knees". Will you be producing a casting for the 12 outlet lubricator that fits on the other side? If so, please can I put my name down for a set of castings.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Feb 3, 2023 15:32:15 GMT
I totally agree with Steve. Insulation IS the key. Unfortunately a lot of people forget what might be considered to be the most important point....Insulate ceiling AND floor. When I first insulated my workshop, some years ago, I just lined the walls with 1"(25mm) aluminium faced foam insulation board, and checked the temperature the next morning, after having a heater on all night (to use Economy 7). Then I continued with the insulation by adding ceiling and floor insulation. The floor was insulated with a double layer of insulation, and 20mm chipboard of insulation panels, all tightly fitted, with no gaps between boards. The floor was then covered with a layer of interlocking 20mm chipboard floorboards, then the workshop temperature was checked again the next morning. I found a big temperature difference!! With the added flooring and ceiling insulation, the overnight temperature was up by 8 degrees. Any cavities that can be stuffed with insulation should be done, to get the ultimate insulation. The ONLY drawback I could see, to this arrangement, was that a mobile phone will not work inside the workshop, as the aluminium faced insulation boards, make up a very efficient Faraday Cage, that stops all radio signals. A landline is a good idea for the workshop!!
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Jan 30, 2023 17:23:43 GMT
Lovely job Roger...absolutely superb, as always!!
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Jan 21, 2023 16:31:44 GMT
Another possibility is to do what I did for my true to scale wheels on my 9f. I machined female moulds out of 1" thick perspex, and got a company called Lestercast, in Leicester, to investment cast the wheels in 316L stainless steel. They gave me the figure to multiply the design by to get a scale wheel after casting. My wheel castings ended up just 0.003" smaller in diameter than true scale. Stainless, being useless as a traction surface, was no problem. I just bought some mild steel blanks to machine the tyres out of, and got the centre area cut out by water jet. These centre pieces were then able to be used to machine the tyres for the tender and pony truck wheels. Rather than use stainless, like I did, mild steel is the alternative for the castings. I believe Lestercast can cast in mild steel as well, though there must be many investment casters that could or would be happy to do the casting. The advantage of investment casting is accuracy of casting and far superior surface finish of the cast surfaces.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Jan 18, 2023 16:58:40 GMT
It is still possible to buy 1/16" brass sheet, as others have said, but 1.6mm brass sheet is also available commercially, and it is only 0.01mm different to 1/16" sheet. That is just 0.00039" different, or near as damn-it the same!!
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Jan 11, 2023 20:57:58 GMT
Hi jem.
As the original was a swimming pool filter, I would guess the stainless is something like S316. This is a stainless that should be easily weldable by a competent welder who is experienced in welding stainless. If you want to use this as a hot water tank in a domestic water system, it would probably be advisable to employ a certified stainless welder. That way you should end up with a perfectly serviceable hot water tank. Good luck with the project.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Jan 10, 2023 9:21:41 GMT
Hi.
Basically, different metals fitted together, in the presence of a conductive liquid, like water, will form a battery and corrode at the mating faces. The same metals, fitted together, but without the conductive liquid, will not be a problem.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Jan 8, 2023 16:30:25 GMT
As Chris says, it makes sense that the band lines don't go all the way around a boiler band. That is certainly correct for Evening Star, and other B.R. liveried locos. The boiler band lining stops at the top edge of the running boards, down the sides of the boiler. Stepping away from the 15xx, a moment...For ALL locos, painted B.R.Green, EVERYTHING below running board level, is Black. You see lots of 'Evening Star' models, and Britannias, where the sides of the firebox, below the running boards, are painted Green. WRONG!! Should be Black, as specified on the official B.R.livery drawing I have.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Jan 8, 2023 16:12:28 GMT
It might not even have a battery backup. It could be a capacitor backup that holds its charge until needed. Depending on the capacitor, it could be for days, weeks, months, or even years according to some 'experts', so it may look as if there is no back-up....but it is there.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Jan 3, 2023 9:51:02 GMT
Hi Triton.
You can almost use any metal for chimney and petticoat. When I bought the chimney and fitted petticoat, for my 9f, from Doug Hewson, about 20 years ago, it was supplied as CNC machined parts, made from brass bar. Doug Hewson also supplied the chimney and petticoat for the Britannia, in brass, so it would seem that almost any model engineering metal would do.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Dec 28, 2022 12:21:00 GMT
I bought a similar iron, and made a bad mistake!! I think.
I let the copper soldering bit (tip) go black. It just won't solder as it is now, and I read that these soldering iron tips have a special coating (don't know if that is true or not) that if you file away the black coating, you take off this special coating too and that ruins the tip and it is useless for soldering, so has to be replaced with a new one. I don't know if I've understood the text correctly, but I certainly can't solder with the iron as it is now, and I tried it with the blackened tip and then carefully cleaned it up using fine emery, so am going to have to order a new tip. Anyone else found this? What is the answer?
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Dec 24, 2022 12:11:48 GMT
I'm not quite sure what the problem with 2D drawings is. Until CNC came along, 3D engineering drawing was almost unheard of, except to illustrate an object; never to machine it. I was an engineering design draughtsman for many years, and worked in 2D and 3D. CNC was in it's infancy so everything we manufactured, was machined to 2D drawings, but 3D drawings were used to show assemblies. Everything in the engineering world, was manufactured from 2D drawings, before CNC. 3D drawings give you a picture of what something will look like when finished, or assembled, but for actual manufacturing (machining) 2D drawings are the most important. If you think about the machining of an item, you can look at a solid item, which IS 3D in life, but what you are seeing is actually a 2D face, and dimensions are all against 2D faces. Martyn is quite right to not publish full 3D drawings. Anyone with access to any CAD software that can read his drawings, can generate full working, fully dimensioned, working drawings. Definitely NOT a good idea to publish fully detailed 3D drawings. If Martyn's drawings have been proved by him manufacturing a couple of models to the drawings, the only need, technically, for 3D drawings is to give an idea of the final shape of things, and to check the dimensioning has no clashes. Bob. I see where you're coming from, Bob, but are you mixing up 3D solid models, as produced by the likes of SolidWorks software, with isometric drawings? Most parts these days are machined on the shop floor from 2D drawings which were created from solid 3D models. Any surfaces which are not orthogonal are machined as surfaces from the same models. Martyn will supply drawings which allow the machining of components to suit the model's design just like almost all model designs have done in the past. In this regard, he has already done the hard work in supplying a casting or, perhaps, a fabrication which only needs final machining. This is a far cry from most model designs where, given the final part drawing, it is up to the modeller to work out how to fabricate the part prior to machining. Mike Hi Mike. No. I wasn't thinking of isometrics. I am well aware that 2D drawings can come from 3D solid works, when available. I used to use full Autocad solid modelling back in the 1990s, to produce drawings for the experimental gas powered air conditioning system, that the company was working on, and took 2D drawings from the 3D drawings when I was a contract design draughtsman. Yes you did read that right...a gas fired air conditioning system.....and it worked. Problem was we couildn't get it down to a sensible, marketable price. I probably didn't express myself to well (its an 'age' thing, I guess!!!) I was just trying to say exactly what you have pointed out, that a full set of 2D drawings, from which the parts are made, can be taken off by anyone who has the 3D drawings, so I was agreeing with Martyn, that they should not be available commercially so that drawings can be 'ripped off' and sold, by people other than Martyn and his partners. 2D drawings are what a part is made from unless made on CNC. If someone wants to use CNC to make the parts for Martyn's loco, then, rather than supply a full set of 3D drawings in file form, that can be pirated, he can supply the necessary CNC files for a price. The other problem with even supplying files for use with CNC is that if the details come off a 3D assembly drawing, anyone with those 3D assembly drawings can pull off manufacturing drawings for all the parts that Martyn will sell too. It's all about protecting Martyn's IT. I'm sorry, I just didn't express myself properly in my previous post, and for that, I must, as I said, put it down to an age thing!! Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Dec 14, 2022 15:02:05 GMT
Ever struggled with drilling a biggish hole in a bit of plate or sheet metal? Years back saw this one in an old book and my metalwork teacher knew it well. In essence and even if following a pilot hole its far too easy when drilling to end up with a five faceted start which never resolves usually resulting in an over sized hole which it rarely round. Yes you can solve it by grinding a square edge to the drill making it a special but there's a simpler way. Get a little square of fabric, a bit of denim or old bed sheet a couple of inches square and fold it a couple of times into a pad. Then drill though this pad. It will take a lot more pressure but the pad cushions the back of the cutting edge and stops all the chatter. Result ... A good clean hole. An old tip but a good one. When I was an apprentice draughtsman, going through my workshop training, we did a lot of hole drilling in sheet metal....brass, aluminium and steel. Using that method a piece of cloth 1" wide x 2" long, and folded in half, was universal in our works. It was possible to drill a 1/2" dia hole in 20 swg steel, without it snatching, which was perfectly round and less than 5 thou oversize. Get the speed exactly right and the hole could end up a perfect fit around the drill. i.e. less than a couple of thou. oversize. Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Dec 9, 2022 11:36:04 GMT
I blew the photo up (no pun intended!). The second photo IS just the ship. No needle eye.
The 3rd photo seems to show that the ship is around the same size, top to bottom, as the needle diam. It looks slightly bigger in the photo but I would put that down to photographic perspective. What diameter of needle? I would guess 0.5mm to 1mm from the surface finish. Call it 1.0mm (typical) and the ship then ends up around 5.00+mm long.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Dec 9, 2022 10:07:07 GMT
I'm not quite sure what the problem with 2D drawings is. Until CNC came along, 3D engineering drawing was almost unheard of, except to illustrate an object; never to machine it. I was an engineering design draughtsman for many years, and worked in 2D and 3D. CNC was in it's infancy so everything we manufactured, was machined to 2D drawings, but 3D drawings were used to show assemblies.
Everything in the engineering world, was manufactured from 2D drawings, before CNC. 3D drawings give you a picture of what something will look like when finished, or assembled, but for actual manufacturing (machining) 2D drawings are the most important. If you think about the machining of an item, you can look at a solid item, which IS 3D in life, but what you are seeing is actually a 2D face, and dimensions are all against 2D faces.
Martyn is quite right to not publish full 3D drawings. Anyone with access to any CAD software that can read his drawings, can generate full working, fully dimensioned, working drawings. Definitely NOT a good idea to publish fully detailed 3D drawings. If Martyn's drawings have been proved by him manufacturing a couple of models to the drawings, the only need, technically, for 3D drawings is to give an idea of the final shape of things, and to check the dimensioning has no clashes.
Bob.
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