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Post by 92220 on Mar 27, 2023 12:55:39 GMT
I've just spent a lot of time reading up, on the internet, about water treatment and water softeners. Apparently there are a lot of misconceptions about this.
This is what the European Water Treatment Association said, and they ought to know what is correct and what is not):- Historical Evidence. Water softeners have been used for many years. The technology dates back to 1903 when Robert Gans first patented the process. Softened water was necessary to protect steam engines against scale deposition in the engine boiler tubes. Similarly, water softeners have been used domestically since 1916 (link to advert – see below). For over 100 years, no specific mention, concern or requirements relating to increase in corrosivity have been found necessary for domestic or industrial softening.
This seems to contradict all those who say water softening is bad, but you just have to make up your own mind as to who to believe.
Bob.
applications.
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Post by 92220 on Mar 27, 2023 10:31:23 GMT
I visited a railway last year that had a rainwater tank supply piped to the steaming bay. I filled up, lit up, and both injectors worked perfectly for about ten seconds then failed. When dismantled I could see a hardened, clear 'gum' around the steam cone that needed caustic to dissolve it. I would guess it was proteins from all the microscopic creatures baked to a glue when they met the steam. So tiny they went through the filters. Norm Hi Norm. I would guess the filters used on preserved railways, are just to remove dirt and solids from the water, but leave the microscopic particles like the microscopic creatures you refer to, in the water, because they don't cause a problem in 'fullsize'. I wonder what the Ph of that water supply is!! If the rainwater is filtered through 2 layers of thick paper kitchen wipes, like the Blitz wipes we use, anything sticky, like your microscopic creatures, will be caught in the fibres. I am sure that is why my Ph meter indicates the filtered rainwater I have, is almost as pure as distilled water. Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Mar 27, 2023 10:18:45 GMT
I've just checked the Ph of the water I filtered for the steam iron, about a month ago. The Ph meter indicates a Ph of 7.6. A Ph of 7 is correct for pure distilled water, and being just over 7.0 is very slightly alkaline, which, I understand from reading up on the internet, is ideal for our boilers. I live in Oxfordshire, and that may have a bearing on the acidity of the rainwater, but with cheap Ph meters, that is no problem.
Just as an extra bit of info... while reading up about this, I did come across a note in central heating notes, that with a slight increase of sodium in the water, that is better, in boilers, than the hard water chemicals, and causes no problems. This is also something I found that is very relevant:- Is Softened water more corrosive? This is a misconception that many have. In fact, water softeners prevent copper pipe corrosion as it transforms your home's hard water into soft water.
With the low cost of a Ph meter, it is a very obvious way to ensure safe water in the boiler. Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Mar 26, 2023 11:00:59 GMT
Hi Steve.
That is a good point. If one wants to use rainwater, then a cheap Ph meter is a good idea. The lower the Ph, the more acidic the water. Obviously the higher the Ph, the more alkaline it is. The ideal Ph is around 7, which is neither acidic nor alkaline. Amazon do a cheap Ph tester:- "PH Meter Tester Preciva 0.01 Resolution Digital Automatic Water PH Meter Hydroponics Pen with LCD Screen Large Backlit for Kitchen,Aquarium,Pool,Laboratory with Calibration Powder" The cost is only £15.32, so makes the use of rainwater and distilling, a real possibility.Amazon also do a lot of water distillers too, but being model engineers, we can probably make better and more productive ones, much cheaper.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Mar 26, 2023 8:16:48 GMT
Hi Roger.
I've just done a quick scan on the internet regarding limescale. Rainwater is almost always 'soft' and has little or no limescale in it. The other possibility is to use water from a water softener. (Quote):- Installing a water softener will improve your water supply if you live in a hard water area. Cylinders which are made up of microscopic beads that forms a resin, traps the minerals that make your water hard. Magnesium and calcium is replaced by sodium, which is more soluble.
I found that rainwater is good at being free of limescale. I collect and filter the rainwater and we use it in the steam iron for ironing the cloths. There isn't any sign of limescale anywhere on it. It looks as limescale free, as when it was new, and the iron has got to be at least 5 years old or more.
To filter the water, I use a couple of layers of kitchen paper wipes and let the rainwater slowly drain through that. The filtered water is crystal clear and nothing settles out of it over time, either, so should be ideal for use in loco boilers. Possibly another option for filtering the water would be to use a grade FFP3 breathing filter, which is the top grade breathing filter. Something could be made up to catch and automatically filter rainwater over time. This could give a permanent supply of soft, filtered, water for use in the boilers. It would just need the filters being replaced on a regular basis. Something else I must look into doing in the future!!
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Mar 23, 2023 15:09:12 GMT
Hi Roger.
I was quite impressed with it too. I'm sure it will be ideal for our purpose. Norman's idea of using a piece of double sided tape to hold it tight to the piping sounds good as well. I've found some high temperature clear double sided adhesive tape that is 4mm wide. I've ordered some so if it is ok for what we want, I will let you know. I'll let you know if it isn't any good as well.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Mar 23, 2023 11:12:42 GMT
For those who worry about contravening copyright, generally sharing info on the forum is not contravening the rules, as long as certain conditions are met:-
Generally, sharing SECTIONS of drawings on the forum, is not breaking copyright laws. This is the section that covers us:-
Permitted use of copyright works: You may not need permission if you’re using a copyright work for the following reasons:
non-commercial research and private study criticism, review and reporting current events teaching in educational establishments helping disabled people recording for use at a later date
Note the first clause, referring to non-commercial use and private study.That is what impacts the sharing of drawings on the forum. The models being built by forum members, are, in general, are almost all for private use and therefore, non-commercial. Model engineers are often non conversant with engineering drawings so come under the 'private study' heading when sharing information, as generally information is shared while doing research to clarify details, to enable something to be made for 'non commercial use'. The important point to ensure that one doesn't contravene the copyright rules, is to only copy sections of a drawing and ensure there is nothing in the copied section, that identifies the drawing. The other point is that it must all be for non commercial purposes. Another point to bring up is that many model loco construction drawings, are produced by people who have little or no engineering draughting experience or training, so don't produce drawings to general engineering standards. This often means that some details are just not clear enough for someone to actually make a part. Any shared information that includes scans or copies off a published drawing, that are used to clarify the drawing to enable the part to be made, for private purposes, will also NOT be in contravention of the rules as it is just clarifying what the copyright owner intended, and is also enabling someone to make the part that the original copyright owner intended to be made from the drawing.
This was something I checked out when I wrote my book on painting models. For example, if someone asks a friend the best way to mix paint to paint his model, the friend is not breaking my copyright if he copies/scans the particular section to help the enquirer. It is non-commercial and is 'educational', and so comes under the "Private study" heading.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Mar 22, 2023 14:31:24 GMT
Hi Roger. It took me a bit surprised. I only ordered the 2mm cotton braid yesterday. I got it today lunchtime!! Here are a couple of photo close-ups. It looks ideal for scale insulating wraps for piping. I hope the photos come out. I haven't used Flickr for ages!! They did!!! 2mm cotton tape 2 by Robert Shephard, on Flickr 2mm cotton tape 1 by Robert Shephard, on Flickr 2mm 3mm 5mm 6mm FLAT COTTON TAPE STAY BINDING BRAID NATURAL UN-DYED MADE IN UK (133695703043) Width: 2mm Length: 10 Metre Cut Length Bob EDIT:- I forgot to add: this was bought off Ebay. The text is copied from the listing heading so copy and pasting that into Ebay should bring it up. They can supply all sorts that could be useful to model engineers. Certainly worth a look. Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Mar 22, 2023 12:11:07 GMT
Well he has only got to type 'Wilfin lathe' into Google to get a load of data!! That's what I did because I'd never heard of a Wildfin lathe, and I got a lot of data, and photos.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Mar 20, 2023 10:48:18 GMT
Hi Roger.
I also need some fine tape, like you. I have found this on Ebay and have ordered 10 metres:- 2mm 3mm 5mm 6mm FLAT COTTON TAPE STAY BINDING BRAID NATURAL UN-DYED MADE IN UK It is cheap enough to buy short lengths to check out whether it is any good or not.
It will be interesting to see how thick (thin) it is, with it just being 2mm wide. Being a cotton tape, it can be dyed to any other colour, quite easily, but I think the piping insulation on B.R.locos was all white. Perhaps it just needs dirtying up a little bit, to take the bright whiteness off. I will let you know what it is like when it arrives.
Bob. Edit: It is the 2mm wide I have ordered. Should get it in a couple of days.
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Post by 92220 on Mar 17, 2023 16:50:41 GMT
If it is any help. I have the B.R. detail, and arrangement, drawings for the B.R. Standard tender frame assemblies, fitted to 9Fs and Britannias. I don't have the drawings for the Britannia loco, but the drawbar position will be exactly the same height as on the tender drawings. The fullsize height of the drawbar centreline from the surface of the rail, on the B.R.Arrangement drawing, is 3' 5.1/2". This scales out for 1.1/16" to 1' (5" gauge) at 3.673", so neither model drawing drawbar height, is shown at true scale height. Just for information, the quick way to scale fullsize B.R. dimensions to suit 5" gauge, is to multiply the fullsize dimension x 0.0885 Example:- 3' 5.1/2" = 41.5". 41.5 x 0.0885 = 3.67275 (3.673")
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Mar 12, 2023 9:24:31 GMT
I've done a bit more digging. and came up with this one:- Permabond® 802 High Temperature Superglue 20gm www.glueonline.co.uk › ... › Cyanoacrylates Permabond® 802 High Temperature Superglue 20gm ; Colour:Clear ; Viscosity:90 – 110mPa.s ; Operating Temperature: -30°C to +1650°C. Not bad!! having a max OPERATIONAL temp of +1650C. Wow!! Way above red heat of steel!! bb And not too expensive at £16.38 for 20mls Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Mar 12, 2023 9:04:40 GMT
Any of the epoxy adhesives like Araldite, will work fine as long as the adhesive is not subject to heat. Epoxy adhesives and similar, can still be used in hot areas but then it is important to check out the max working temp for the particular adhesive. For anyone who wants a high temp adhesive, One of the highest working temps is 180C for LOCTITE® EA 9492 Hysol. Unfortunately structural epoxy adesives are not cheap, but if someone wants a very strong bond that stands high temps. the structural adhesives are the way to go. Some supercars are put together using structural epoxys, rather than rivets and nuts and bolts.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Mar 9, 2023 16:12:18 GMT
Yep!! None of these fancy machine ideas take into account resistance to motion and friction, and these effect EVERY moving object one way or another!!
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Mar 9, 2023 9:06:27 GMT
Hi Bob FYI CNC programs are not transferable between machines, programs are made specifically for the size, shape, type and datum’s of the machine and more importantly the capabilities of each machine so this project is useless for someone wanting to do what I am attempting, a 2.5” version with CNC parts (programs are also not scaleable). Lots of lovely work and detail has gone into the CAD model and it’s a shame it won’t be available. However Ariel drawings have been available for many years so the chances of someone bothering to rip off the design from the CAD model is probably slim IMO. In a small positive is that I am now continuing with my CAD model as I now know I won’t be able to buy this one. Having done some more small details recently it has reminded me how much fun it is so can’t complain really. All the best Doug Hi Doug. Sorry. I didn't put down exactly what I meant to say! Again!! I fully accept that CNC programs are machine specific. What I meant to say was that the 3D drawings should not be available as computer files, because any CAD program that can read the files and export them as a file suitable for use with CNC. As is probably quite obvious from my writing, I know almost nothing about CNC, but I did do a lot of 3D drawing when I was a draughtsman, using my own full Autocad. I understand, from what I have read on the internet, that "CNC typically uses STEP, DXF, or SVG files". The one file form cottoned on to is the .dxf. There are a lot of CAD programs out there, that can convert 2D and 3D drawings to .DXF files form. That seems to me that any drawing file in 3D that has been converted to .stl file form, can be used to machine something on a CNC machine that can read .DXF files. I may be wrong, but am quite prepared to accept that I have things completely wrong. It is just that that is how I saw it. Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Feb 27, 2023 14:29:15 GMT
Hi Adam.
Those injectors look fantastic. The loco is really going to look amazing when finished. Nobody will believe it could possibly a Winson kit. Oh. My mistake. It's a Cro Kit!!! Brilliant!! Please can you put me down for a pair of castings too? I've sent you an email.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Feb 25, 2023 9:03:35 GMT
For the uneducated population, this came off the internet when asking "what is a bolt" :-
A bolt is a form of threaded fastener with an external male thread requiring a matching pre-formed female thread such as a nut. Bolts are very closely related to screws. Wikipedia.
It would appear that Wikipedia hasn't progressed with the times!!
Bob
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Post by 92220 on Feb 23, 2023 18:56:33 GMT
This is interesting. Found on the internet:-
During WW2 Stuart coupled the Sirius engine with an Alco generator to create a compact electrical generating set for use behind enemy lines to provide power for radios. The set fitted in a compact case and a boiler fitted in another box. The engine had a couple of additions to extend running time. The base casting had an extension added to which was fitted as brass riser tube and cap. This allow the oil sum to easily be kept topped up while running. A steam manifold was also added to the front of the engine with a pressure guage fitted on the right hand end. A condensation drain valve is also fitted. To secure the manifold to the main casting a bulge was added to the casting allowing a securing screw to be added. After the war some Sirius engines retained this bulge. Perhaps unused castings left over from the war production.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Feb 17, 2023 11:24:09 GMT
Hi Roger.
I experimented with lenses over my Varifocals, having seen the clock maker use an extra pair of glasses over his usual ones. I think he must have single focus specs for normal use. The main drawback is that if you use a single focus lens with Varifocal specs, the view is only in focus at one point on the lens. If you look through a different part of the Varifocal you have to move the extra lens closer or further away to get it back into focus. It's the Varifocals that screw things up. It's just what the name implies....variable focus. I found that the only way to improve the view, was to use a pair of standard single focus specs with the extra lens, but that is not recommended if your eyes are used to the Varifocals. Using the single focus specs can mess up your vision through the Varifocals and you have to re-train your brain to use them, all over again. If someone uses single focus specs, like for distance and for close-up, then an extra lens can work. Buying a pair of cheap reading specs will work with an additional lens but it will still need experimenting to get the second lens in the right place for the view to be in focus.I found it too much of a fiddle, and it took me a little while for my eyesight to get back to normal with my Varifocals after playing around with the single focus specs, so now I use a large illuminated magnifier, on an adjustable stand.
Bob.
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Post by 92220 on Feb 11, 2023 12:14:21 GMT
Hi Roger. Definitely fiddly work!!!! Well done. If you want a collet that will tighten down to 0.5mm, these people can supply:- littlemachineshop.com/info/er_collet_sizes.phpThey can supply collets to fit the ER11 and ER16 chucks. Bob.
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