First go at Tig welding super simplex boiler pipes

[ronhancock]

Just tried my new Eastwood 200 amp Tig Welder.



I made mistake of leaving tubes protruding as if i was Silver soldering the pipes.



It ended up having to build it up to end of the tubes not very neat but it's welded fine and its very easy to weld.



when i do the other end of Pipes i will leave flush i have already tried on a scrap piece and a tube nice and neat.



I was so surprised how easy it was to weld the foot pedal is great for more or less Power.



So easy i think if any one can silver solder they would be able to Tig weld as long as you remember to heat before welding.



The part i like the most compared to silver solder is you can always go back and weld where silver solder you cannot.



Plus a Kilo of sil-copper welding rods £55 bit different to silver solder.



I know i will get some not so nice feedback from people who do not like Tig welding but its the way forward i am sure.



Any one near Tamworth who would like to try bring a bit copper come and try seeing is believing.



Plus you can always go back if not happy with weld.
Tried to add photo but failed !!!!

[ejparrott]

I'm not against TIG welded boilers, seriously considering one for my Manning Wardle.

I have to play devils advocate as a boiler inspector though and make sure you have the right grade of copper, suitable for TIG welding? I'm sure you have, but I have to check!

Have you also done test pieces for your boiler inspector?

[jma1009]

ive sent ron a reply on the 'other forum' where he first posted this - unfortunately it would appear from a quick check that the grade of rod used contains phosphorous which isnt at all suitable in a miniature loco boiler let alone a firebox. i also share the concerns expressed above.
cheers,
julian

[ronhancock]

Nov 21, 2014 0:04:55 GMT jma1009 said:

ive sent ron a reply on the 'other forum' where he first posted this - unfortunately it would appear from a quick check that the grade of rod used contains phosphorous which isnt at all suitable in a miniature loco boiler let alone a firebox. i also share the concerns expressed above.
cheers,
julian

Thank you for your advice i will take it to our Boiler inspector so he can see it 
I have built it up far to much to be at the top of the tubes as they where to long for tig welding.
I am hoping my next go will be far better as i agree does not look good.
Grateful for the advice

Ron 

[ronhancock]

Nov 21, 2014 0:04:55 GMT jma1009 said:

ive sent ron a reply on the 'other forum' where he first posted this - unfortunately it would appear from a quick check that the grade of rod used contains phosphorous which isnt at all suitable in a miniature loco boiler let alone a firebox. i also share the concerns expressed above.
cheers,
julian

Hi Julian thank you for reply i used sifsil copper rods no 968 i got the info from internet for welding copper.
I will have to find out if they have phosphorous in them.
I did my simplex boiler first as its a lot smaller and cheaper if i have to start again.
Better to find out now before i start on my Britania Boiler.
Ron

[ronhancock]

Nov 20, 2014 21:43:20 GMT @paul1979 said:

Nov 20, 2014 18:19:39 GMT ronhancock said:

Just tried my new Eastwood 200 amp Tig Welder.



I made mistake of leaving tubes protruding as if i was Silver soldering the pipes.



It ended up having to build it up to end of the tubes not very neat but it's welded fine and its very easy to weld.



when i do the other end of Pipes i will leave flush i have already tried on a scrap piece and a tube nice and neat.



I was so surprised how easy it was to weld the foot pedal is great for more or less Power.



So easy i think if any one can silver solder they would be able to Tig weld as long as you remember to heat before welding.



The part i like the most compared to silver solder is you can always go back and weld where silver solder you cannot.



Plus a Kilo of sil-copper welding rods £55 bit different to silver solder.



I know i will get some not so nice feedback from people who do not like Tig welding but its the way forward i am sure.



Any one near Tamworth who would like to try bring a bit copper come and try seeing is believing.



Plus you can always go back if not happy with weld.
Tried to add photo but failed !!!!

Hi Ron,

I dont want to dampen your enthusiasm, but I would be stunned if this would be accepted by a club boiler inspector. (I have seen the pic on another site)
There also seem to be a few myths over tig welding/silver soldering.
You can remelt silver solder, not a problem.
The only way to get back into a tig welded joint is to grind out the defect and re weld. If you dont grind it out, you are putting weld on top of weld.
If the boiler is used, the joint will be hard to clean regardless of silver solder or tig, and clean for either it must be.
You need c106 grade copper, sif sil no985 welding wire (or a sliver off the c106 sheet) and correct Weld preperation not just fusing a butt joint.
I have welder qualification in tig for c106, for barrel joints it is the way to go. But tig welding tubes and stays is not something I would put my name to.
There is a world of differece between welding, and pressure vessel welding. Unfortunately this seems to have been generally forgotten in the last few years.
Please save yourself some heartache and cost, and speak to you club inspector before going any further.

Best regards

Paul

[ronhancock]

Thank you for Reply i used the correct grade of copper.
I used Sif Copper 986 rods are they ok.
Hopfully next time it will be a proper bead.
I am cleaning copper well firstly in citric acid.
Next use wire brush in bench grinder.
Hope it will be ok
Please let me know if rods no good

[pault]

Something else to consider is oxidation of the weld from behind. When welding pipe work I was taught to have a small flow of argon through the pipe if at all possible. Ideally you block both ends of the pipe feed the argon through one plug and vent it through a small hole in the other plug

[ronhancock]

I did counter sink the Tube plate to make it stronger.
I will try a stailess wire wheel i think mine is brass
Thank you