I had my Simplex boiler tested, out of the frame, when i made it in 1988. I joined a club to get it tested then ran it a few times. I'm wanting to get it tested again. I believe it can be tested in the frame . Is this right and if so what is the general procedure
Last Edit: Jan 1, 2015 16:26:57 GMT by chrislwg: wrong year
stripping the boiler from the frames simply demonstrates the "books cover" not its content. If you can present the original "proof test" certificate I see no reason why your club inspector shouldn't accept this as it stands and hence only require a hydraulic test at 1.5 times WP to then permit a subsequent steam test. The green book does not require a fully sequenced paper trail of periodic hydraulic tests from day one.
However, if you do not have the original proof test cert then you will probably be back to square one
Irrespective of the " paper trail", or lack thereof, the inspector has the right to ask for it to be removed from the frames and for the cleading & cladding to be removed at his discretion.
If I'm looking at a boiler and have any reason to doubt it, I'd be a fool to assume that everything was ok under the covers.
The problem we have, touched on in another thread, is in inspecting the firebox for distortion when the grate and ash pan can't be removed. Failing inspection with an endoscope or via a middle section of the grate which can be removed, it's going to be a "boiler off please".
There's no end to the good you can do in the world - so long as you don't mind who gets the credit
If the boiler is inspected with cladding off then those doubters are all silenced, be it the rules or not. Does not have to be done every inspection but if you are in that position I would take the chance and have it documented as such especially if the engine is not run often and may run out of ticket.
My Maisie is in for an overhaul and I have the boiler off and uncovered and she will have a full inspection and test. Could not bear doing it again after repainting her and putting it all back together.
Like yourself I want to see what is in " the works" and have a tidy up before she goes off again. Might be a bit annoying but not getting a ticket is more so.
My Maisie was so dirty with oil and ash that the works were black. A gentle bath in a mild degreaser saw her right. Now I can see what is painted and whats not. It might not be full on model engineering but I get much pleasure out of getting her back to how she should originally look. A good scrub and paint does wonders and all that steam oil protects the metal.
P.S Just as well you are not doing the Simplex boiler test in Australia as they have a certain dim view of Mr Evans Simplex boiler. Could be a goner over there so having to remover the boiler seems irrelevant compared to paying for new one to be made.
After 25 years a good look at the boiler might be best..
I'd go along with that in this case.........By it's very nature Simplex is an easy and straightforward loco to work on..........The cab and side tanks come off as a single unit leaving the boiler to be lifted after first disconnecting and removing the single superheater element.....You might have seen my National Coal Board re-paint thread showing my Simplex with the tanks/cab removed ??...This would also be the time to give your boiler ( and it's fittings) a thorough clean and pickle, ..Don't forget to keep your chosen Inspector fully informed as to your intentions and progress...........If you still have the original 2 x WP certificate you might be lucky and only need to do the 1.5 x WP test this time......In any event, do your own test at home prior to taking it to the Club, that way there's no nasty surprises in store for you........... Once that test is OK then the subsequent steam test is to ensure all fittings are working correctly.... You need TWO FUNCTIONING and INDEPENDENT methods of putting water into the boiler viz}------ two injectors OR}-- one injector and one by-pass pump OR}-- two by-pass pumps OR}-- combinations of one of those and a hand pump OR}---two hand pumps..................Your pressure gauge Working Pressure ( WP ) reading should NOT be at the end of the scale but ideally about 2/3 of the full range .... For example if the WP is 100 psi then a gauge with an FSD ( Full scale deflection) of 150 psi would be ok......Again, clean, check and set your safety valves at home prior to the actual test day....... The "Accumulation Test" requires that with the blower hard on the WP will rise no more than 10% with the safeties clearing the excess..........ie}--WP = 100psi then Accumulation = 110psi............ Once again you can do this at home beforehand.....Make yourself an adjusting tool for the safety valve....Handy Hint}---- There's nothing in the testing rules that says the water for the injectors must come from the loco's own tanks !!... and a bag of crushed ice comes in handy as well.... .