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Post by GWR 101 on Feb 13, 2015 13:53:54 GMT
Just preparing to fit my boiler to the frames and wanted to see what the general approach is. Its a very good fit in the smoke box so that end will be firmly restrained, am I correct a small amount of sealant is used to ensure a vacuum is maintained. The firebox end I understand is retained vertically by means of a pair of opposed angles on both sides (one fixed to the boiler and the other to the frames) whilst allowing horizontal movement to allow for expansion. I have read this in M Evans book as the drawings have no detail. Also I am interested in any thoughts on insulation material, the smoke box is 0.125" bigger than the boiler so material about 1 mm. thick would seem ideal. I understand some builders use cork, not sure if this preferable and if it is available in this thickness. Thanks in advance Paul
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Feb 13, 2015 23:45:05 GMT
hi paul,
re boiler cladding/insulation under the cleading ive used kaolwool sold by the ME suppliers in various thicknesses down to 1mm. ive also used (and still have quite a lot of) foil backed thin asbestos sheet which is still on some of my locos.
a smear of modern car type sealant will deal with the smokebox. i used to use red hermatite and the current modern substitute is ok for smokeboxes but not ok IMHO for boiler fittings unlike the old red hermatite.
i am a bit 'odd' re vertical firebox support in that i cant stand the traditional angle added on to the sides of fireboxes. i prefer instead to fix angle to support the underneath of the foundation ring attached to the inside of the frames.
cheers,
julian
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Post by GWR 101 on Feb 14, 2015 9:54:30 GMT
Julian as always many thanks for your help. As you have probably realised I didn't make the boiler (hangs head in shame) so I was pleasantly surprised that it was a "perfect" fit in the smoke box that I made ages ago.
I have looked at the possibility of using angles but I am reluctant to attach anything to the boiler so was considering adding a small fitting to the bottom of the fire box sides where they protrude below the foundation ring.
If I have understood your reply correctly it would seem that there isn't a vertical restraint of the boiler at the fire box end can you please confirm this. Regards Paul
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Post by fostergp6nhp on Feb 14, 2015 19:18:56 GMT
Angle bracket on the firebox sides was normal in full size for narrow box boilers on the GWR/LMS.
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,901
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Post by jma1009 on Feb 16, 2015 12:26:05 GMT
hi paul,
the cab holds down the boiler as does all the pipework.
cheers,
julian
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Post by GWR 101 on Feb 16, 2015 14:05:04 GMT
Julian many thanks for that, I will now proceed accordingly. I am sorry this was a bit of a lame question but I haven't made this boiler and it is quite daunting  when the work that has gone into it could be ruined in seconds by incorrectly attaching things to it. Regards Paul |
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Post by gingerneer on Apr 8, 2015 13:57:42 GMT
I have had sucsess in using a high temp silicon sealer called Heat Mate, by Ever Build i believe (i buy it from the loacl builders merchants). It does have a limited amount of adhesive strength, both surface have to be clean and grease free (i have used it in lest than spotless conditions and it still seals/ sticks. So far with 4 years of use its showing no signs of degrading.
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Post by GWR 101 on Apr 8, 2015 18:15:12 GMT
Hi gingerneer, that sounds interesting, I assume you are referring to its use around the smoke box boiler joint. I will undertake some research, many thanks Paul
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Post by gingerneer on Apr 8, 2015 22:26:15 GMT
Hi Paul Yes the smoke box boiler joint. I also use it to plug the gaps were steam and exhaust pipes go through. I still use a couple of CSK screws to hold it all in place www.everbuild.co.uk/heat-mateA link to the stuff, you have a choice of dull red or the universal engine black. Be warned it gets every were. Gloves are a must, best thing is to let it dry. Then trim back with a sharp knife, the excess can be rubbed off leaving a neat joint. Hope this is of use. Will |
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Post by GWR 101 on Apr 9, 2015 9:03:58 GMT
Hi Will, thanks for the link I see it states ok up to 300 deg. C, although I have no experience I assume this is more than enough for the smoke box to boiler joint. Regards Paul
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robmort
Hi-poster
3.5" Duchess, finishing 2.5" gauge A3 and building 3.5" King
Posts: 172
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Post by robmort on Apr 26, 2015 21:23:05 GMT
Why not just use ordinary silcone rubber sealant for these joints?
It's good to at least 250degC which should be more than enough.
It works well as an oven sealant for example.
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Post by ejparrott on Apr 27, 2015 8:11:01 GMT
Not the bathroom type, and I'd be careful of other types of silicone based sealant too. Becomes a real pig to do any kind of painting later. Countless Land Rover owners have had repaint efforts thwarted by idiots who try to seal leaks by bunging silicone sealant in to various joints. It leaves a residue behind that is an absolute sod to get rid of, and you just cannot paint where it's been.
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Post by GWR 101 on Apr 27, 2015 17:23:50 GMT
Hi Ed and Rob, I haven't fixed the smoke box yet (got delayed with the regulator) but was going to use the everbuild that was recommended by Wilf. Not sure if this is suitable for use on fittings, was originally going to use Hermatite but Julian says the new type isn't suitable for these. regards Paul.
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when the work that has gone into it could be ruined in seconds by incorrectly attaching things to it. Regards Paul
