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Post by Deleted on Apr 10, 2015 21:19:39 GMT
Hi Folks,
I have soldered a short boiler barrel into the throatplate (riveted to the equally short wrapper). The barrel was a tight fit and appropriately fluxed. During soldering, the barrel slipped and tilted about 2 degrees. Thankfully, this tilt is not sideways of the barrel's final angle, but downward. There is quite a generous allowance for cladding so, should I just try and hide the tilted barrel in the cladding, or start again and re-make the barrel/throatplate solder?
Dave
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,900
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Post by jma1009 on Apr 10, 2015 21:27:49 GMT
hi dave,
i think it all rather depends on the throatplate positioning after the above, but as the copper will be annealed i think you can get away with a bit of tweaking here and there especially at the backhead end of the wrapper and not worry too much especially if the joint you have silver soldered is very good. it is surprising what a few judicious bashes with a raw hide hammer will do on annealed copper to get everything ok!
cheers,
julian
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Post by runner42 on Apr 10, 2015 22:33:07 GMT
I agree with Julian annealed copper is very easy to tweek into a new position so a judicial knock should correct things. On the other hand reheating the silver soldered joint because the boiler is in the early stage of assembly can readily undertaken. If attempted re-flux the joint and position the assembly so that when the silver solder melts that gravity will assist in re-positioning the barrel.
Brian |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 10, 2015 22:39:43 GMT
Thanks for that Julian and Brian.
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Post by ejparrott on Apr 11, 2015 7:23:08 GMT
I agree, you can probably tweak it, or you can remelt the solder as you haven't progressed far. I always use a couple of bronze screws to hold joints together.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 11, 2015 13:31:02 GMT
I've cleaned up the job and find that I have a good chance of starting from scratch as the solder hasn't taken properly on the barrel. Where would bronze screws hold a throatplate /barrel joint square?
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Post by ejparrott on Apr 12, 2015 7:39:36 GMT
I drill through the flange on the throatplate clearance size, and drill and tap the barrel. For any barrel up to 4" diameter 3 would be fine, over that it's up to 4 or 5. Just remember not to screw them up really tight when it's fluxed and assembled, otherwise the solder can't flow into the joint. I use the same for all the flanged joints. I've got nothing set up and all the ones that have been done are now filed off and finished so I'm afraid I can't show a photo. I do need to get on with the new Lion boiler though, I'll have to remember to take photo's.
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