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Post by stoney43 on Jun 19, 2007 15:53:35 GMT
why cant this machine not take a cut bigger than 10 thou without stalling cant do all my machineing with backgear in situ. must be some adjustment somewhere. anybody with a speed 10 out there can help. dave.
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lancelot
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 471
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Post by lancelot on Jun 19, 2007 17:06:07 GMT
Hello Dave, I have run a ''Speed 10'' for quite a few years now and have yet to put it into ''back gear''...in saying that a 10 thou cut is a relatively light cut for this machine...IF ...your tooling is correctly sharpened [formed] and set up for the material that you are machining., I have taken 20+ thou off leaded steel with no problems. What exactly do you mean by ''Stalling'' ...is the motor cutting out , stuttering , slowing down, drive belt slipping,... I think you may have either a tooling or motor problem. Hope you can get it sorted, as the Speed ten is a great little lathe Is your lathe the latest model [18''centres with long cross slide] All the best for now, John.
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Post by stoney43 on Jun 19, 2007 17:22:31 GMT
thanks for the quick reply john but alas when looking at the three pulley wheel at the side of back gear on lathe main shaft the chuck and back gear stop whilst the pulley and belt go turning along not even making the motor draw more ammps seems as though there should be some sort of adjustment but none visible as yet. yes it has the long bed but dont think its as you say the latest must be 20+ years if its a day. dave.
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Post by albertsell on Jun 19, 2007 18:29:29 GMT
Helo Dave, If your belt is slipping due to being oily try dusting the belt and pulley with ordinary builders cement dust. It drys up the oil.Have used it on my lathe successfully.(old trick from my working days when I worked on mechanicly driven tracked cranes) All the best Albert.
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Post by stoney43 on Jun 19, 2007 19:56:32 GMT
hello albert thanks for the tip but the belt isnt slipping the pulley is ! its slipping on the headstock shaft when i put a cut on. if hold the belt with my left hand and grip the chuck with my right hand i can turn the chuck without moveing the belt or any pulleys. regards dave.
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Post by chris vine on Jun 19, 2007 20:12:37 GMT
Hi Dave,
I do not have a speed 10 but I think I may be able to point you in the right direction.
There are two actions to engaging and disengaging back gear. One is to release the headstock pulley from the mandrel so that it runs free. The second is to engage to back gears so that the drive goes from the gear on the pulley, to the lay shaft and back to the big gear on the mandrel (called the bull wheel).
Conversely when you change out of backgear to normal, you must dissengage the backgears themselves and then reconnect the pulley to the mandrel On an ML7 and Super 7 there is a little thing like a switch on the side of the bull wheel which you move over to connect the bullwheel to the pulley (the bull wheel is connected firmly (or should be) to the mandrel).
It sounds to me as though the headstock pulley has not been reconnected to the mandrel and so you have not got any real drive, just a bit of friction to make it go round.
Hope this is helpful, maybe I have the wrong end of the stick/mandrel.
Chris
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Tony K
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,573
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Post by Tony K on Jun 19, 2007 20:31:08 GMT
Carrying on from what Chris has said, on the Speed10 the direct drive to the chuck is disengaged/engaged by a key. If you are at the front and go left from the chuck, the first cog wheel (65T) enables this (what Chris calls the bull wheel I think).
If you rotate the chuck by hand you will see an allen screw on the right hand side of the cog. On my one it is an allen screw - it could be a hex head to make life easier.
Loosening the allen screw (difficult to get at) allows a key on the left hand side of the cog to move up and down in a slot, which disengages/engages with the shaft.
We reckon this could be in the disengaged position.
This is on page 10 of the manual under Headstock Spindle Drive. The key is item 51 and appears in the top left diagram (Section A-A) on the page next to the parts list. In the parts list it is called the backgear key. The cog is item 50 and is called the backgear in the parts list.
Regards, Tony.
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Post by stoney43 on Jun 20, 2007 18:03:08 GMT
hi chris tony i also have the allen screw in back gear have cut down an allen key to make it easy to access. this key is fully down and shaft is engaged. the slip is between the 3 step pulley and the main shaft. what holds this pulley onto the shaft it cant be a key ? i was thinking there was some sort of clutch or friction devise as a safety feature. frusrated dave.
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Tony K
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,573
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Post by Tony K on Jun 21, 2007 9:08:46 GMT
OK Dave - hope you have found something to relieve the frustration - I find a pint or two of Theakston's works for me.
There is no clutch or friction safety device fitted. I think this boils down to two possibilities. Descriptions looking from the front as before.
Possibility 1 The pulley is attached to the second cog on the shaft from the right. This second cog (cog2) engages internally to the first cog from the right (cog1) and drives it. If the two cogs drift apart, cog2 disengages from cog1 and the pulley rotates on the shaft. The position of the pulley on the shaft is determined by a collar on the left of the pulley, held in position by an allen screw. This may have come loose and allowed the pulley to drift to the left and disengaged it. Similarly, cog1 may have drifted right and disengaged. It is held in position by an allen key also. So your next check is to rotate tha chuck whilst holding the pulley still and see if cog1 rotates and cog2 remains still. If this is so, you need to engage cog2 into cog 1 by repostitioning them on the shaft and tightening the allen screw on either end. If not - go to possibility 2.
Possibility 2 Cog1 is prevented from rotating on the shaft by a woodroffe key in a keyway. So, if cog1 does not rotate with the chuck whilst holding the pulley still - the key is damaged or not there.
Hope this works out - please let me know.
Kind regards, Tony
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Post by stoney43 on Jun 21, 2007 16:42:20 GMT
tony collars are tight and in position no play between cog 1 and cog 2. cog 1 is as you describe fastened to shaft and chuck. with key in down position the drive is passed to cog 2. cog 2 is as you describe attatched to the 3 gang pulley. this is my problem the 3 gang pulley is on a shaft that appears to be part of cog 2 and the 3 gang pulley is the part that is spinning whilst the chuck, cog 1, cog 2, and the shaft are all stationary. it does appear as though the 3 gang pulley has worked loose on the shaft. i hope this is a spare part or should i just locktite it on. thanks for the input as it says two heads are better than one emptyone. now for a couple of amber fluid boddys. i owe thy one..
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Tony K
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,573
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Post by Tony K on Jun 21, 2007 19:00:42 GMT
On my machine, if I loosen the allen screws and disconnect cog2 from cog1, the pulley and cog2 rotate freely on the shaft - but the pulley and cog 2 are firmly fixed together. Therefore you should not Loctite the pulley to the shaft (the pulley has a grease nipple to lubricate it and the shaft turns at a different rate when the back gear is in use!). What needs to be done is to fix cog2 to the pulley. It is not clear from the diagram how this is achieved - they both appear to be mounted on a sleeve but there are no bolts on the diagram.
I think you have two options - either a new pulley/cog2 combination from Myford or fix the pulley and cog2 together in some way - possibly with something like Loctite permanent.
I reckon the latter is worth a go, since Myford will want the equivalent of several pints of Boddy's for a replacement. You may be able to do it without dismantling, but be careful not to stick other parts together e.g. do not glue either the pulley or cog2 to the shaft.
Hope this works - let me know.
Regards, Tony.
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Post by stoney43 on Jul 9, 2007 11:44:14 GMT
Tonytrans. Update. been busy with water tanks for rob roy but yesterday wanted to turn 4" flywheel thought it would take ages at 10 thou a time so took another try tightened the grubscrew in cog 1 with extension on allen key and some small success! managed to remove 30 thou off 4" dia. so for now it seems as tho im going the right way thanks for the clues. Dave
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Noddy
Statesman
Posts: 672
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Post by Noddy on Jul 13, 2007 12:15:53 GMT
Using cement dust...
although the stuff is very fine, it is mostly a powdered glass (cement clinker, with gypsum and inert or pozzolanic fillers added to it).
Bentonite clays (fullers earth) are a far better but less abraisive oil absorbant. boots chemist will sell you a little tub, alternatively, if you see a drilling rig working, ask if they have any bentonite pellets or powder (not grout, it has cement in it), and they'll hapilly give you a few hand fulls.
Some of the clumping cat litters are bentonite, but often have other abrasive crap in them as extenders. Keith
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