smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Post by smallbrother on May 13, 2020 8:56:05 GMT
I have worked on the second cylinder and they are both bored, and faced on the ends and also for the portface. Seemed much easier this time with some lessons learned from the first effort and some great advice on here.
Decided to re-visit the rolling chassis and get it near to completion and painted. It needs taking apart, the spotted holes need finishing and the stay needs to be fitted. Bushes for the coupling rods and i think I will get the buffers done too.
Pete.
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Post by delaplume on May 13, 2020 12:28:25 GMT
Up and attem Pete !!........
Regarding painting the chassis}--- Personally I prefer to have any item that's to be bolted onto the chassis to be assembled first, thus ensuring metal-to-metal contact.....Others I know will counsel differently....It's an old chestnut that pops up from time to time...
My reasoning is that paint is not regarded as an Engineering medium, and that reference to any Drawings will not show a note saying}---"Ensure a layer of paint is maintained here"......Having said that, a thin coat of sprayed-on primer shouldn't pose any problems....
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Post by ettingtonliam on May 13, 2020 13:48:06 GMT
At one time it was common practice to coat the joint surfaces of structural steelwork with a coat of red lead (and I mean real red lead, the stuff you can't get any more) just before bolting up, Having had to take some apart 40 or more years later, even with all the bolts out, you had to belt the beam with a sledge hammer to break the joint.
Then came High Strength Friction Grip bolts, and with them, the joining surfaces (faying surfaces) should be shotblasted clean , and the paint was only allowed round the edges, about 1" onto the joint face.
When I'm building an engine, its metal to metal contact everywhere. full size locos must have been that way too, because they didn't go into the paint shop until complete, did they?
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Juliet
Jul 9, 2020 13:15:28 GMT
Post by smallbrother on Jul 9, 2020 13:15:28 GMT
I see Reeves are selling a 5/16 diam axle pump. The Juliet drawings show 1/2 diameter which is the same as my 5" Polly 1 loco, which fills in no time and has caught me out with an overfilled boiler several times.
The smaller pump is about 40% capacity of the large one.
Strikes me as plenty for a little loco like this.
Anyone see a problem?
Pete.
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Post by smallbrother on Jul 9, 2020 14:07:59 GMT
Bushes complete and amazingly it still all rotates. Pete.
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Post by nick952 on Jul 9, 2020 17:07:47 GMT
Hi Pete,
The drawings I have show the Axle Pump as having a 3/8" Bore, with a 1/2" Stroke, so the 5/16" offering may well be fine.
Nick.
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mbrown
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Post by mbrown on Jul 9, 2020 18:55:56 GMT
I see Reeves are selling a 5/16 diam axle pump. The Juliet drawings show 1/2 diameter which is the same as my 5" Polly 1 loco, which fills in no time and has caught me out with an overfilled boiler several times. The smaller pump is about 40% capacity of the large one. Strikes me as plenty for a little loco like this. Anyone see a problem? Pete. LBSC axle pumps do tend to be a bit oversize - he often said that locos on short up and down tracks (which were common in the days before there were many club tracks) used a lot more water than on continuous runs, and I guess he specified pumps that could keep up with (a) stop/start running with probably a lot of blowing off, and (b) middling workmanship. As an indication of what is possible, my Bagnall which has a boiler of similar size to Juliet but smaller cylinders, has a cross head pump of 1/8" bore and 1.25" stroke, and it can keep the boiler full on a continuous track without any use of injector or handpump. So 5/16" should be ample. Malcolm
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timb
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Post by timb on Jul 10, 2020 14:26:30 GMT
Pete, if you can fit the coupling rods and the wheels still rotate then you have done better than most! Well done sir!
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Juliet
Jul 10, 2020 18:39:44 GMT
Post by smallbrother on Jul 10, 2020 18:39:44 GMT
Pete, if you can fit the coupling rods and the wheels still rotate then you have done better than most! Well done sir! Well thank you Sir! Mind, looking at some of the outstanding examples on here I feel a bit outgunned! Pete.
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Juliet
Jul 10, 2020 21:53:14 GMT
Post by jcsteam on Jul 10, 2020 21:53:14 GMT
I suppose I should really make a start on re-building my Juliet. I bought it as an almost finished project but little did I know the woes that lay beneath. I have the steel for new frames as the original ones were so badly out of alignment only one hole married up when paired together. This has thrown everything else out too. So it is a start from scratch jobbie.
Your frames are looking nice and tidy. Regard Jon
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Post by smallbrother on Jul 11, 2020 8:03:39 GMT
I suppose I should really make a start on re-building my Juliet. I bought it as an almost finished project but little did I know the woes that lay beneath. I have the steel for new frames as the original ones were so badly out of alignment only one hole married up when paired together. This has thrown everything else out too. So it is a start from scratch jobbie. Your frames are looking nice and tidy. Regard Jon Hi Jon, I went for laser cut frames from Model Engineers Laser. At least something will be right! Pete.
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Juliet
Jul 11, 2020 11:04:51 GMT
Post by smallbrother on Jul 11, 2020 11:04:51 GMT
I have made the washers for the leading crank pin and that completes all the parts on Drwg No 1. Not sure if this was the best way but I parted the 1/16" washer off as shown. Pete.
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stevep
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Post by stevep on Jul 11, 2020 17:30:22 GMT
That's as good a way as any.
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Juliet
Jul 12, 2020 10:11:48 GMT
Post by smallbrother on Jul 12, 2020 10:11:48 GMT
I need to return to the cylinders and finish them.
Do I need a tilting vice in order to drill the angled passages? Can't see how to hold them in the normal vice.
Having invested a lot of time in them so far I don't want to make a mess so don't mind the outlay if that is what it takes.
Pete.
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uuu
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Juliet
Jul 12, 2020 10:28:26 GMT
Post by uuu on Jul 12, 2020 10:28:26 GMT
I think I just clamped mine with the frame face against an ordinary angle plate. One of those really cheap electronic levels would set the angle (not that I have one, I must have used something else).
Wilf
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Juliet
Jul 12, 2020 10:47:13 GMT
via mobile
Post by osiris09 on Jul 12, 2020 10:47:13 GMT
Someone in a post recently had a vice in a vice to set an angle to do this. I think it was making a simple steam engine. You could see if that would work for you.
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Juliet
Jul 12, 2020 10:53:15 GMT
Post by smallbrother on Jul 12, 2020 10:53:15 GMT
I think I just clamped mine with the frame face against an ordinary angle plate. One of those really cheap electronic levels would set the angle (not that I have one, I must have used something else). Wilf Thanks Wilf, You inspired me to go and have another look at what I have in the workshop. I wonder if this set-up in a V-Block would work. I am sure I have clamps that would hold it all in place. Pete.
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uuu
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Juliet
Jul 12, 2020 11:14:23 GMT
Post by uuu on Jul 12, 2020 11:14:23 GMT
Is the angle right in there? That would be really fortunate. I see that your port face is on the side where mine is on top, so that perhaps makes yours more tricky - I could just swivel mine round.
I also see you've not yet drilled for the cover studs. Is it easy to position the angled passages to avoid where these go?
Wilf
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timb
Statesman
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Post by timb on Jul 12, 2020 13:09:46 GMT
Pete, I always draw the ports on the side of the cylinder. Plenty of marking out blue (or red paint as you have) on the side, use a square to draw across the port face and extend the lines down the side of the cylinder. Use a depth gauge to get the depth of the port and scribe this in. Use the square again across the front of the cylinder using the port face edge or put the cylinder port face down on a surface table and use a scribing block to pick up on the top of the bore and scribe this along the side. You can then angle the cylinder with a drill in the chuck such that the drill side will line up with a line from the cylinder edge to the bottom corner of the port. You could use a square on the vice jaw to line the two points up if you want to be exact. I find it easiest to do this in a drilling/milling vice. The issue you have is there is no bolting face but you can use the edges of the cylinder which is part portface part bolting face and extends beyond the cylinder body itself. You dont need much force to drill the passages so no need for the vice to be ultra tight. Easier to do than describe!
It shows the ports as 3 x No30 holes - I suggest lining up with the middle of the cylinder then use a slot drill to mill a flat, then centre and drill the first hole, same for the next two moving over either side. The setup would be more complicated if the ports were nearer to one side than another but these appear to be straight down the middle. Easier to do if you can mount it in the mill for drilling, using the slides to position correctly, I am not sure what you have avalable to use. Need to take it steady or the drill will grab when it breaks into the port. LBSC talks about grinding the drills with one side bigger than the other just in case the drill breaks but care and attenton is all thats needed.
I guess others will have a different point of view but I thought I might chance it. I could probably get a photo of the setup for you in the next week, just finishing off coupling rods myself!
Tim
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Post by ettingtonliam on Jul 12, 2020 13:38:35 GMT
In 1965, with minimal equipment, I filed the angled flat in the end of the cylinder bore, marked out the line of the drilling on the side of the casting, held it in the bench vice and drilled the passages with my trusty Woolworths hand drill, keeping everything in line, by eye. I didn't know that LBSC advised grinding the drill off centre in case it broke, but with my drill sharpening skills back then, I expect it was off centre anyway. Whatever, it worked.
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