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Post by 02jcole on Jul 18, 2007 20:27:38 GMT
Hello all, I am in the process of making some steam fittings and wonder what is the best way of creating the square on the spindle and a matching square hole in the handwheel Any tips. James.
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Post by Tel on Jul 18, 2007 20:39:40 GMT
These spindles/handwheels will be pretty small? 'bout the easiest way to make the spindle is to file it while it's mounted in the lathe, using one jaw as a datum.
Conventional wisdon sez you use a broach for the square holes, but, they are expensive and won't get enough use to justify the cost. Instead, drill your core hole a little oversize and force a piece of HSS tool steel thru' it - you might 'ave to taper the end of the HSS a bit. You can make internal hexs the same way using a chopped off allen key.
Do it in the vise, with the workpiece backed up by a suitable bush that will let the 'former' come thru' enough to do a good job.
Having said all that - it is sometimes better just to run a thread on the spindle & thread the handwheel, then hold it all in place with a good locknut.
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waggy
Statesman
Posts: 744
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Post by waggy on Jul 18, 2007 21:09:04 GMT
James,
As Tel advises, thread the spindle and wheel.
Secure with Loctite threadlock and a locknut. Won't ever move in normal use.
Waggy.
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steam4ian
Elder Statesman
One good turn deserves another
Posts: 2,069
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Post by steam4ian on Jul 18, 2007 21:41:27 GMT
G'day Waggy,
You can lead a horse to drink; But you can't make it water!
Regards, Ian
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stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,070
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Post by stevep on Jul 23, 2007 8:35:39 GMT
Lawrie Lawrence's method, which I have used many times with complete success, is to broach the square hole in the handwheel in the lathe.
Having drilled and parted off a handwheel blank. hold it so that it rests against the chuck jaws, and put a square needle file in the tailstock, and then push it through using the tailstock handwheel.
To remove, open the jaws and put the blank on the inside, and just undo the tailstock handwheel.
You may have to do this a couple of times to complete the hole.
Incidentally, a good wheeze for handwheels is to get seven pieces of brass tube - I think I used 5/32". Tie them in a bundle (6 around the outside and one in the middle) and silver solder the lot together. Part off slices, and a few minutes work with a needfile gives a very reasonable representation of a cast wheel.
Steve
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Post by Old Biker on Aug 2, 2007 15:20:28 GMT
If you don't mind a bit of toolmaking, broaches are not that difficult to make, just a bit fiddly. The small one is 1/8" square for loco hand wheels. Incidentally the hand wheel is for a loco that was started in 1974 is still just a rolling chassis. Mark
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Post by spurley on Aug 2, 2007 17:57:24 GMT
Hi Mark These broaches look good, are they made from silver steel or gauge plate? Probably either would do I imagine? Are they filed up and then hardened once the teeth are sharp? Then do you use them by hand or in the lathe tailstock? I suppose they could be used in a drill press if the chuck is locked and the quill shaft is operated up and down? Wow loads of questions! Incidently Steve, who is Lawrie Laurence please? (just for interest as you mentioned him). I like your idea for the 'built up' job, might well give that a go at some stage. Cheers Brian
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Post by steammadman on Aug 3, 2007 17:05:50 GMT
old biker is a man after my own heart, why buy when you can make.
silver steel will make a damn good broach. look around for some square stock , used to be on the market), i've had mine in stock about 40 years. however, cut or file teeth on 1 ,orbetter still 2 faces,make sure you get em sharp, then very gently push your "broach" through , hand wheel, turn the broach through 90 deg,and repeat , gently , using your tail stock, with the embryo hand wheel held in the chuck and the "broach" held in the tailstock chuck, NOT MUCH PROJECTING.
i used this wheeze at least 50 years ago with succes.
REMEMBER SOFTLY SOFTLY CATCHES MONKEY
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Post by GWRdriver on Aug 3, 2007 18:37:38 GMT
Something worth consdering I don't believe anyone has pointed out which can simplify the job, rarely are miniature wheel holes broached fully square. As often as not the hole is drilled round and oversize so the broach needs only put four healthy nicks in the diameter at the rquired ACF dimensions.
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Post by Boadicea on Aug 4, 2007 10:13:42 GMT
who is Lawrie Laurence please? (just for interest as you mentioned him). Cheers Brian Reckon Lawrie Lawrence = Curly Lawrence = LBSC = Model Steam Engineering Icon.
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Post by alanstepney on Aug 4, 2007 11:29:03 GMT
Reckon Lawrie Lawrence = Curly Lawrence = LBSC Wrong one. Whilst Curly was indeed LBSC, Lawrie was a contributor to ME, for a time one of the editorial staff, and member of Bournemouth SME. His main "fame" is probably his series on Injectors, and how to make them. A series that should be required reading for anyone interested in them. Oh, and neither was related to the "other" Lawrences, DH, or TE.
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Post by spurley on Aug 4, 2007 16:23:31 GMT
That's why I asked the question!
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Post by Old Biker on Aug 4, 2007 16:33:52 GMT
Brian The broaches are either filed or milled taper /square . I have cut the teeth variously by filing or milling, both equally tedious. The teeth are 'almost' sharpened before hardening then touched up with a fine oil stone. With silver steel or gauge plate I find that quenching from cherry red into old cooking oil (windows open in w/shop as it stinks a bit !)is plenty hard enough, even then I have broken the odd one !. The smaller broaches can be pushed through from the Myford tail stock but in the larger sizes this is a bit hard on a 3 1/2 inch lathe so I really use the broaches for sizing, removing most of the material with a file as I did here. Mark
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Post by albertsell on Aug 4, 2007 19:33:33 GMT
Gentlemen, I must have made more than 30 hand wheels, all with a square hole made using needle files in not much more thn 5 minutes each/square.Much easier,quicker and cheaper than making a broach. Bye Albert.
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