klank
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Robinson's Locos - Edwardian elegance at its best.
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Post by klank on Aug 2, 2007 16:18:05 GMT
Being very new to the ownership/operation of a lathe, I have been gaining experience whilst making very simple items - die holder for tail stock; draw bars etc.
Whilst turning away merrily on my small 12X7 lathe (Chester DB 7V) I noticed the lead screw was getting sprinkled with a fair bit of swarf at times. I have got to the stage where I am starting to use the power feed with a little more confidence and became worried that the swarf may gum up the works somewhat. I have purchased a couple of beginners books and the wise ones (authors) recommended fabricating some type of "shield" to cover the top of the lead screw - especially near the headstock end where most turning takes place.
Rather than fabricate something rigid out of Aluminium or plastic, I looked around for a simpler solution and remembered I had some lengths of (molded) heating pipe insulation foam :- "Climaflex". (A sort of silvery grey colour plastic foam - split down one side with a smooth outer and inner surface). A 6 inch length of this (40mm o.d.) clips neatly over the lead screw to the left of the saddle and neatly squishes out of the way when moving to "the left". It seems very resilient and flexible and stays in place with no need for further attention. The lead screw rotates quite happily within this "jacket" - I imagine it could also be packed with lithium grease as well - not tried this yet. Costs pennies and fitted in seconds. When worn out - simple to fit a new length.
Now I suspect this idea may well have occurred to others, but I have seen no post of it so far - apologies if it is well known - but this may be of use to any newbies like me.
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steam4ian
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Post by steam4ian on Aug 2, 2007 23:15:51 GMT
G'day Klank. That sounds a good solution. I was looking to do something similar for the same reason. I was using LM grease on the screw but it attracted swarf like a magnet. I changed to oil with a small amount of moly grease, that helped a little. I have seen lathes with a telescopic spiral cover, this could probably be picked up a a spare somewhere. What caused me to defer the screw cover was a tray I mounted on the saddle which catches the swarf from under the tool . This tray extends the width of the bed, out to the edge of the saddle and under the chuck. The length is such that I can just take the tool up to the chuck face. The tray is mounted using a screw in the threaded hole for the traveling steady and so can be removed if it is in the way.
One thing I did get was grommet that fits in the opening of the control box for the lead screw, I found a lot of swarf getting in; brass swarf goes everywhere. The grommets are available from Little Machine Shop.
Regards, Ian
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steam4ian
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Post by steam4ian on Aug 3, 2007 2:51:35 GMT
G'day Klang Me again. Try this link for photos of my lathe with the swarf tray and other mods. www.flickr.com/photos/10703661@N03/I haven't done this before so it may be an exercise in futility. The photos also show the ammeter I installed and a saddle lock of my design (not patented). For interest my Grandson's Christmas (2006) present is shown along with the "Coffee Pot" steam motor coach. The best thing about the 7x12 minilathe is that there is so much you can do to it to make it like a Myford! Regards, Ian
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Post by spurley on Aug 3, 2007 6:06:46 GMT
Hi Ian Some good ideas for the lathe, I like it! Will probably join klank with his pipe insulation on my lathe's leadscrew, thanks for the idea Can you provide a bit of background to the Coffee Pot and coach please? Looks like an intersting combination, are they genuine or new build? Cheers Brian
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steam4ian
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Post by steam4ian on Aug 3, 2007 6:43:32 GMT
G'day Brian. I'm glad to see the link worked.
My particular mod is the ammeter. There was considerable resistance from experts on another group but I trusted my own extensive professional experience and went ahead. Very useful when parting and taking heavy cuts.
I'll post some details on the Coffee Pot later.
Regards. Ian
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Post by spurley on Aug 3, 2007 6:55:16 GMT
Hi Ian I had a look at the Pichi Richi Railway site and got the 'griff' on the Coffee Pot. I must say though I was really interested in the NM25 restoration www.prr.org.au/cms/content/view/119/73/what a job! Well worth a read through to see how it's done in 1:1 scale! Not much left of the original locomotive; new frames, new cylinders and major boiler work. I must say my projects at the Bluebell (North London, Baxter and the Adams Radial) were nowhere near as complicated. Sorry to have hi jacked this post klank, sometimes this is how it goes Cheers Brian
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klank
Involved Member
Robinson's Locos - Edwardian elegance at its best.
Posts: 87
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Post by klank on Aug 3, 2007 9:14:09 GMT
I'm pleased that the "lagged leadscrew" idea has caught the eye - don't mind about the rest.
I could not get the link to work - I would very much like to see the ammeter - where is it wired into the circuitry?
Ian, I realise I too need a grommet or some such - must investigate further.
Cheers
Peter
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steam4ian
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Post by steam4ian on Aug 3, 2007 9:55:30 GMT
G'day Peter (Klank)
The link does work but you need to copy the whole line into you browser; unfortunately just clicking on the link does not work. Let me know how you get on. For the ammeter I can find some old notes and put them on your PM.
Regards, Ian
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Myford Matt
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There are two ways to run a railway, the Great Western way, and the wrong way.
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Post by Myford Matt on Aug 3, 2007 11:36:54 GMT
Nice find Spurley - fascinating link: as you say in 1:1 scale!
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klank
Involved Member
Robinson's Locos - Edwardian elegance at its best.
Posts: 87
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Post by klank on Aug 3, 2007 13:47:31 GMT
G'day Ian, Thanks for the help - yup I got it now - fascinating.
Your notes on the ammeter would be really useful - big thankyou.
With all respects and wishes
Peter
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steam4ian
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Post by steam4ian on Aug 4, 2007 1:58:57 GMT
G'day Peter (Klank) See your personal email for info about the ammeter.
Regards, Ian
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Post by chris vine on Aug 4, 2007 9:47:03 GMT
Hi All,
I found a good way to protect the lead screw and bed on a myford (and others) is to use a piece of thick leather (from a chrome leather apron (available from J & L)). With a strip of metal and one screw it can be attached to the chuck side of the saddle using the tapped hole for the travelling steady.
If you make it about 8" or 9" wide it will flop down either side of the bed and protect the lead screw. Make it about 18" or 2 feet long and it will all curl up in the gap under the chuck. I find it is sort of automatic in use. As you wind the saddle towards the tailstock it just pulls out and as the saddle returns towards the chuck it falls into the gap.
I use coolant and this tends to get through the leather and stay damp on the bed to I added a layer of polythene under the leather. This "High Tech Composite" Material works well in this way. (Suggested trade names on a postcard please! Leatherthene? sounds suitably 1950s..)
Chris.
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