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Post by Roger on Feb 6, 2019 12:41:30 GMT
Hi Mike,
Excellent progress, that looks neat and tidy. Are you proposing to fit some sort of arrangement to lift the inlet ball valve off its seat to prevent it from sticking when it dries out?
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barlowworks
Statesman
Now finished my other projects, Britannia here I come
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Post by barlowworks on Feb 6, 2019 13:32:16 GMT
Hi Roger, thanks for the kind words. When I tested the hand pump it worked ok first time so I will leave it and see how it is when I finally get the Brit running. It's easy enough to take to bits if I need too.
Mike
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Post by Roger on Feb 6, 2019 13:52:38 GMT
Hi Roger, thanks for the kind words. When I tested the hand pump it worked ok first time so I will leave it and see how it is when I finally get the Brit running. It's easy enough to take to bits if I need too. Mike Fair enough. As far as I can see it's the dissolved solids that dry out and stick the ball to the seat. I presume the issue is so common because the hand pump is rarely used. |
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stevep
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,073
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Post by stevep on Feb 6, 2019 16:42:41 GMT
I had my inlet valve (ball) stick on my Rob Roy hand pump last year, and one of my fellow club members recommended hot water. So we boiled a kettle and poured it into the side tank, and lo and behold, the valve freed itself.
Something to do with differential expansion, apparently.
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barlowworks
Statesman
Now finished my other projects, Britannia here I come
Posts: 878
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Post by barlowworks on Feb 6, 2019 17:50:35 GMT
All these things are being logged away in the old gray matter ready to hopefully be retrieved later. I still have a long way to go before I use the hand pump in anger but thank you for the suggestion.
Mike
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don9f
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Les Warnett 9F, Martin Evans “Jinty”, a part built “Austin 7” and now a part built Springbok B1.
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Post by don9f on Feb 6, 2019 22:14:28 GMT
Hi Mike, is your idea to pipe water from your filter box direct to the engine...ie not taking water from the “sieve boxes” that fit below the tank?
If so, maybe you could still use the sieve boxes to drain the tank by opening the bottom doors (item 3 in your list)....with appropriate hole sizes, it will drain pretty quick! The sieve boxes do contain water shutoff valves, but they are a bit fiddly to operate.
There are further fine mesh sieves contained within the injector water valves on the engine itself but don’t think they would work in 5” gauge.
Cheers Don
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timb
Statesman
Posts: 512
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Post by timb on Feb 7, 2019 8:32:51 GMT
Hi Mike,
On your excellent crane jib, how did you do the rivets, are they real or dummies?
Tim
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barlowworks
Statesman
Now finished my other projects, Britannia here I come
Posts: 878
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Post by barlowworks on Feb 7, 2019 8:40:27 GMT
Hi Don, yes water from the filter box straight into the engine. I do have some Doug Hewson filter boxes to fit but was just going to divert the water through them and leave well alone. The stop valves do look very fiddly to use on a regular basis, hence the valve in the tank. I do intend to empty the tender using a removeable water scoop pipe as shown by Steve (springcrocus) in his Brit tender build. That should empty the tender pretty quickly down the water scoop.
Mike
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barlowworks
Statesman
Now finished my other projects, Britannia here I come
Posts: 878
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Post by barlowworks on Feb 7, 2019 8:45:18 GMT
Hi Mike, On your excellent crane jib, how did you do the rivets, are they real or dummies? Tim Hi Tim, the rivets on all the crane parts are dummies, embossed by a riveting tool. You can see it on page 3 of this thread when I used it to emboss the tender step tread plates. Mike |
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timb
Statesman
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Post by timb on Feb 7, 2019 9:20:41 GMT
Hi Mike,
Yes you did, there is so much good stuff here I clean forgot!
Thank you for your patience.
Tim
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barlowworks
Statesman
Now finished my other projects, Britannia here I come
Posts: 878
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Post by barlowworks on Feb 7, 2019 11:03:07 GMT
Hi Mike, Yes you did, there is so much good stuff here I clean forgot! Thank you for your patience. Tim If you can find time in the summer to come to the Gala I usually have it on display on our modelling table. You can have a play. 😉 Mike |
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timb
Statesman
Posts: 512
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Post by timb on Feb 7, 2019 18:24:31 GMT
Hi Mike, Yes you did, there is so much good stuff here I clean forgot! Thank you for your patience. Tim If you can find time in the summer to come to the Gala I usually have it on display on our modelling table. You can have a play. 😉 Mike Sounds like something for my diary! |
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timb
Statesman
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Post by timb on Feb 8, 2019 17:49:28 GMT
By the way Mike, do you attend the model Railway Exhibition at Birkdale?
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barlowworks
Statesman
Now finished my other projects, Britannia here I come
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Post by barlowworks on Feb 8, 2019 22:04:16 GMT
Yes, I'll be on the Sheffield O gauge group modelling table. Come and say hello if you are there. I'll be the big daft looking one not the one with the little dog. 😉
Mike
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barlowworks
Statesman
Now finished my other projects, Britannia here I come
Posts: 878
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Post by barlowworks on Feb 9, 2019 15:18:29 GMT
Hi everybody
More work on the tender water system. This is work for the overflow/quick emptying system shamelessly copied from Steve (springcrocus). I needed to know the location of this on the tender floor so I could work out the space I have for the stop tap fittings. The first thing was to make up the base plate for the water pickup chute. This is held to the underside with 8 x 6ba nuts and bolts and the hole is drilled through both the plate and the tender floor for fitting the collar that locates the overflow pipe (temporarily fitted with 2).
This is the collar and overflow pipe. The pipe is 15mm copper pipe, the drawing calls for 3/4 inch but, of course that doesn't exist any more with metrication. The metric equivalent is 22mm which is 3mill off 1 inch and mucks up all the dimensions for the collar so 15mm it is. There is a locking cutout in the collar and pin in the pipe to hold it in place. There will be an O ring in the bottom to make it water tight when they arrive from China.
This is how it all fits into the tender, very elegant, thanks Steve. The pipe will be cut to length for the overflow level when I make the top platform with the filler and dome in place. To empty, just remove the pipe and the water goes down the water pickup chute.
Next, I will have to work out where the stop taps can go and the through holes for the hand pump and the return bypass feed.
Mike
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Post by David on Feb 12, 2019 0:26:56 GMT
I like the overflow pipe, I don't think I've seen one down here. I have overfilled the tank lots of time which then washes grit back into it.
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Post by Jim on Feb 12, 2019 5:47:05 GMT
I like the overflow pipe, I don't think I've seen one down here. I have overfilled the tank lots of time which then washes grit back into it. I fitted an overflow pipe to Boadicea's tender along with an extension to the drainage plug so the plug could be removed without putting my hand into the confined space at the rear of the tank with its feed valves and overflow plus support brackets.
Jim
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Post by David on Feb 12, 2019 7:24:50 GMT
I fitted an overflow pipe to Boadicea's tender along with an extension to the drainage plug so the plug could be removed without putting my hand into the confined space at the rear of the tank with its feed valves and overflow plus support brackets. Jim
You're smarter than the rest of us then! I forgot to put a drain hole in the red loco's tender, despite meaning to do so and having it apart for a total replumb. I meant to put a 19 or 25mm hole in there to drain quickly. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 12, 2019 8:44:59 GMT
No drain hole in mine either but then ir does empty pretty rapidly when both water valves are openes.
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barlowworks
Statesman
Now finished my other projects, Britannia here I come
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Post by barlowworks on Feb 12, 2019 16:16:43 GMT
I must admit that even though I gave credit to Springcrocus for the overflow pipe I do remember Jim's thread as well, particularly him not wanting to get his pinkie wet. 😉
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