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Post by shaggydog on Aug 16, 2017 11:59:27 GMT
Another update!
Managed to get the crosshead pins out so I could try and determine if the tightness was the wheels and rods or the cylinders.
The wheels and rods went around beautifully(!) which was much a relief only to then be brutally crushed by the fact both cylinders needed a good hard shove to get moving!
I slackened off the gland nuts hoping it was just some very dry packing but alas to no gain.
Next job then - take the cylinders off the frames to be machined!
I really must get around to doing the photo thing.....
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tony9f
Seasoned Member
Posts: 104
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Post by tony9f on Mar 13, 2018 13:07:39 GMT
From my own experience I can only suggest that the slide bars and cylinders are out of alignment. I found that the slide bars were set at 5 degrees and the cylinders nearer 6. As it goes I set the cylinders up at 6 degrees and dowelled them then threw away the Winson bits and made my own which are also at 6 degrees.
Just as an aside, can somebody tell me how the hell the tender drawbar is supposed to fit when there is a 1/2 inch discrepancy between the loco and the tender?
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Post by 92220 on Mar 15, 2018 18:47:20 GMT
Hi There.
Good luck with your project. Let's see some photos. You mention that you are going to have to remove paint from the tender. Be VERY carful how you go about this. I'm not familiar with the way the tender is built up, but don't use any kind of paint stripper or solvent or anything liquid, to remove the paint, because any rivet holes or places where two sheets of metal overlap and have any kind of space between them, the liquid will creep in by capilliary action. If that happens it is very difficult to remove it, then when you next paint it, the solvent/paint stripper will come back out by capilliary action again, and ruin your paint finish. Also, don't wash the surfaces with thinners to de-grease or remove dust. The way to do it is to use a piece of old bed sheet that is just dampened with thinners, not wet with thinners. If you know someone who has a grit/bead blaster, that is the safest way to remove paint. Where are you, in the UK so that anyone who might be able will know if you are near enough to visit? If it's any help, I am in Oxfordshire, and have a large bead blast cabinet that would take your tender.
Bob.
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Post by Bluff Chuffer on Mar 16, 2018 4:47:33 GMT
Hi, Regarding your tender/loco coupling, what do you mean by 1/2" discrepancy - I assume vertically? My 9F had no problem, so may be something is assembled incorrectly.
Errol
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tony9f
Seasoned Member
Posts: 104
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Post by tony9f on Mar 16, 2018 7:35:56 GMT
Hi Errol,
The discrepancy is vertical. As it goes I have been correcting a lot of faults in the original model and I don't think that is an assembly issue. I have also checked back against various drawings and photos and it would appear that everything is pretty correct dimensionally. The only fly in the ointment is that the tender has been fitted with the Hewson springs and brackets and as a result may sit lower than the Winson arrangement. I am countering this by making up the rubbing plates that fit on top of the axleboxes which brings the tender up to a scale ride height. As a matter of interest, the loco sits a little bit high (maybe 1/8") but it is on the Winson springs. Even though I have turned the wheels back to a scale 60" the fourth coupled set still come close to the front of the firebox. I would like to know what the correct ride height for this loco was supposed to be (3 5/8" buffer C/L) is about scale. I appreciate that in full size an allowance would have been made for a laden tender rising on it's springs as the coal and water was used up which really isn't an issue here but nonetheless I can't see any way that the slots in the rubbing blocks can line up. Have you got any ideas?
Tony
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Post by gwr14xx on Mar 16, 2018 11:44:39 GMT
My Winson 9F had a similar problem in that the loco ride height was about 1/2" higher than that of the tender, and would cause the leading tender axle to derail over any dips in the track. I ended up replacing the original bolts that connect the spring to the axlebox with studs and nuts - so that the studs could be locked into the axleboxes and then the ride height adjusted with the 2 nuts above and below the spring. I have not suffered any further derailments of the tender since carrying out this mod.
Regards, Eddie.
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tony9f
Seasoned Member
Posts: 104
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Post by tony9f on Mar 16, 2018 12:07:04 GMT
Eddie,
Sounds about right. I shall do a similar thing with 2BA studding but use nyloc nuts to adjust with and dispense with locknuts above the springs. As an aside I might try making the top leaves a bit more flexible which is what I think Errol did. Hopefully I will be able to get the tender ride height a bit closer as in all honesty from what I have checked from various drawings the dimensions are pretty close to scale for both the engine and the tender. The other issue I had was the tender wheel sets not being true. I dismantled them and rebored them after clocking the treads then made new axles. I turned them back to scale diameter but because of the crap profile that Winson put on them the flanges are still too thin so will probably have to get new ones as it will probably be just as much to fit tyres.
Tony
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Post by gilbert on Dec 25, 2018 4:58:30 GMT
Folks,
For anybody building a Wilsons 9F, I have loads of spare parts. I bought the job lot as two and a half 9Fs - needless to say I am only building one ! So, if you need any parts drop me a note and I can check for availability.
Gilbert
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Post by dhawker on Oct 7, 2019 21:31:58 GMT
Hi all, I acquired my 9F earlier this year as a built chassis with three boxes of bits including built up cylinders. It had been completed at some stage and from the looks of it stripped for painting and never re-assembled.
Having recently re-built and sorted a Winson Jubilee I am happy that almost all if not all parts are present.
One thing i am short of is a set of the assembly drawings / instructions. if anybody has them either hard copy or electronic i would welcome the chance to see / purchase them, also any copies of the relevant articles from the Winson magazine.
I am aware that I need to check and probably modify the regulator, main steam delivery pipe and the valve ports / alignment cylinder / slide bar arrangements as well, any other major problems that people have found i would be happy to hear about.
Davidh
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Post by cplmickey on Oct 7, 2019 21:45:23 GMT
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Post by dhawker on Oct 7, 2019 23:01:11 GMT
Hi Ian,
thanks for swift reply, not sure how to pm on this group yet but will do.
I found and read your cylinder saga, hence my comments.
David
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Post by Cro on Oct 8, 2019 8:25:21 GMT
Hi David,
I think I have most if not all of the assembly drawings somewhere, will see if I can find them later on and see whats there.
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions, as like Ian I have heavily modified one myself.
Adam
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Post by dhawker on Oct 21, 2019 21:10:12 GMT
Hi Adam,
I now have most of the drawings and instructions but if you havee them for kits 11 and 18 i would be most grateful.
David
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