Britannia 70047 "Derek Stokes"

[JonL]

[JonL]

To-do list from yesterdays steaming session: (3 hours of going round in a circle, axle pump keeps up with steam use very well)

Tiny weep from blower valve to turret union
Firebox door sealant needs a better option
Whistle valve minor weep
Lubricator; still not convinced its playing the game properly. In 40 laps of our track it went down about half an inch. I wonder if the oil pump cant overcome the steam chest pressure through the inline clack valve.
Smokebox door pin looks incongruous.
Audible leak of steam from somewhere in the left hand cylinder, but I'm blowed if I can trace it

All in all minor stuff. Most interesting was learning about the reverser. I'm sure despite my best efforts I've still got it wrong. 

I spent the first few laps pulling away in full forward gear. Slightly lethargic for a big locomotive, didn't set the world on fire. A little disappointing.
Experimented with notching up, Wahey, off we go! It would appear on full forward or reverse the available power drops off, suggesting I've got too much authority on the expansion link? I just don't know. When notched up a little she pulls away from standstill far more enthusiastically. I think the timing is still unbalanced as when you go closer to mid gear she sounds very uneven. This was never an issue with my William.

All learning, all tweaking, this is the bit I enjoy.

[JonL]

A mystery!

The lubricator works. The cylinders have residual oil in them. I've had it pumping on air and the system works fine.

Somewhere between the cylinder and the blast pipe the oil just disappears, leaving a bone dry chimney...... Magic!

I've spent the last hour trying to work out whats happening. Just when I start to think I'm becoming a bit of an engineer I feel like a complete tyro again!

[JonL]

I've gone through the lubricator system making sure everything is tight with no leaks elsewhere. The ball valves all seal. Strange.

A frustrating weekend as I've made good progress with the running boards over the past week and wanted to finish them, however I've been struck down with a cold which has made concentrating nigh-on impossible. Off work today, frustrated.

On the paintwork side I've decided to go with satin rustoleum for the half of the firebox under the running boards and the smokebox, and the rest gloss black.

[dhamblin]

Plain black, a-la 70000 when built, or with the mixed traffic lining?

Regards,

Dan

[JonL]

I think I might line her. See how it goes.

[Jock McFarlane]

From the early 1960s Britannias were not lined out after general repair and were turned out in plain green livery. (And they added electrification warning flashes and moved the top front lamp bracket and middle buffer beam bracket) . Olver Cromwell being the last steam loco to have a general repair completed in Feb 67 was an excpetion and was lined out. 

[oldnorton]

According to David Clarke's book on the Standard Pacifics 70000 Britannia, when first built, was run in unlined black for trials only before being repainted in standard lined green.

To further quote from that book: A 1963 instruction to stop lining black locomotives was also applied to the practice for green engines, but this took some time to be seen. The majority in 1965 were still in old lined paintwork, but very dirty. Certainly in 1965 and 1966 they were seen unlined and nameplates were removed.

I did see a five inch gauge Standard 7 painted in unlined green and it just looked incomplete. The satin finish didn't help.

[JonL]

My locomotive deviates so far from the prototype that I doubt it will be my paint choice that causes the main offence.

[JonL]

Applied the second coat of black today after flatting back the initial coat. I think there will be quite a bit of "flat it back, another thin coat". Keeping the garage warm enough to try to avoid wrinkles has been the expensive bit!

[chris vine]

Hi John,

Just a note of caution:
Many people will tell you to paint a model by putting on lots of thin coats and rubbing down between.
This is not always possible, and depends on the paint you are using.

In my experience, certainly with coach enamels, you have to put the paint on quite thick and fast to ensure that it is fluid enough to pull out flat.
If you are painting satin, then it doesn't matter so much if it pulls out truly flat because your eye won't see the ripples.
However, if gloss is what you are using for boiler barrel, cab sides etc (IE the coachwork), then it really is important to ensure it flows out properly as your eye can see the ripples all too easily.

To reduce the risk of the paint running/sagging you will find it helpful to make a turnover stand like a spit roast so you can keep it moving. The time spend setting up to do this will be repaid many times over!!

All best and enjoy it if you can,
Chris.

[JonL]

Thank you Chris, I've pored over your book on the subject. As usual I've cherry picked the info I've chosen to use despite it all being excellent!

The flatting back has been primarily to take out the odd run or dust mote; I don't have a clean room like our Roger. The first coat was indeed the thickest though; I used it as a filler coat for the odd rivet dimple etc. There are odd areas where the paint has had too satin a finish. I'm working on it.

[JonL]

A thicker coat tonight. Looked pretty nice (its the fourth coat I think!) but I won't know until later. I think at this point my plan is rub back any remaining runs or issues with fine abrasive then polish. I knew I wouldn't be getting a showroom finish, but I'm quite pleased with the direction its going in.

[chris vine]

Rubbing down runs is tricky, they tend to be soft inside.

Maybe rub down a bit, then leave for a long while and do a final bit of rubbing down or polishing later.

Chris.

[oldnorton]

For rubbing down fresh paint with wet and dry paper I always use tepid water with a drip of 'Fairy'. As well as a much better result, the water helps if you come across a soft patch.

[chris vine]

Or use some of the stuff from the car body shop suppliers. A sort of fine abrasive mesh mounted on foam. Usually with a velcro type back.
With water (and maybe fairy) it is very good at not picking up.

Chris.

[JonL]

That is exactly what I've been using Chris. As you say, it doesn't pick up. Suprised at how good it is.

[chris vine]

Good news!
As with so many things, the industrial suppliers can provide some seriously good stuff.
Chris.

[JonL]

Youtube short

[JonL]

A very frustrating fault. My locomotive has been performing very well, however with the reverser in mid position you can open the regulator and it is sealed lovely and tight. As soon as the left hand piston valve moves slightly towards the rear I get blowby with steam going straight up the chimney. This also happens wherever the reverser is set.

Surely if I had a leaking piston valve I'd get a constant blow up the chimney? It sounds like I've got a break through between the exhaust and inlet steam ports on the cylinder itself.... I've a feeling this is one of those jobs that will mean such significant rework I'll have to live with it. Astonished I didn't notice it before.