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Post by mugbuilder on Dec 25, 2019 5:31:09 GMT
The baby 24 class is cute. What is the 4-4-0 130 based on? The NSWGR imported 2 of these Baldwin 4-4-0s numbered 105 and 130. They were classed 'U' and 'U 105 entered service in October 1879 and had a 6 wheel tender. 'U 130 followed in 1879 and had an 8 wheel tender.
This 130 is an O.B.Boulton design that was an adaption of LBSC's 'Virginia' in 3 1/2" gauge. The drawings and castings were purchased from old Barnaby himself at his King and George street Sydney optometrist office. The little 3 1/2" gauge 0-4-0 No. 14 was from the same place.
The little '24 class' was of my design and used an adaption of the martin Evans 'Rob Roy cylinders and valve gear. It used to go like the clappers. It was the last engine to run on the Old West Ryde timber [ very high ] elevated track. This track was nearly 6 feet off the ground at one place and was only 3 1/2" gauge. That last day before the track was dismantled I ran almost non stop for about 6 miles only stopping for fuel and water. I knew that it would be a few years before the new elevated would be ready for running again. While I was waiting I decided to build 5201 in 5" gauge and hardly ever ran the little '24' again. It along with No. 130 was sold to finance a new workshop building. When we moved to the Orange area the new workshop along with the 2 engines were left behind. I still have No. 14. It is in a little glass case in my home office.
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Post by mugbuilder on Dec 27, 2019 22:11:35 GMT
Here are a couple of non NSW engines that I finished from part built models. The green pacific arrived as a box of very rusty worn out chassis bits and a very good boiler. It was done for a well known Australian artist who used to send me little paintings of how he would like it to look when finished. It was for use on his private 5 1/4" track. The narrow gauge 0-4-0 tender engine was done from a part finished 5" gauge 'Sweet Pea' chassis and I fitted a 'Blowfly' boiler. As far as I know it now resides in Tasmania.
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Post by mugbuilder on Dec 27, 2019 22:26:44 GMT
The shed shown behind the Green pacific was the workshop that I had when my wife and I first moved to the Orange area.The house that we bought was 12 Km. from town and was on 7 1/2 acres.The tin shed [double garage] was not lined and the snow would sometimes blow in under the eaves in winter. I had a small pot belly stove inside that used to glow red hot at times. We lived there for 13 years before building a new house on a 13 acre block 23 Km.from town. On this block I had a 40 x 18 foot concrete block workshop. Behing the workshop and under the same roof I had a 40 foot GHG NSWGR guards van.I had a 1000 ft. test track on both blocks. Sadly gone now as age forced me into town. but the up side is that it is under 2 minutes from my club track.
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Post by Jim on Dec 28, 2019 5:43:46 GMT
Just 2 minutes from the track, you can't get better than that Barry.
One of the big disadvantages of living far from the track is not having the easy access to the exchange of ideas and thoughts with other members that always seems to take place round the steaming bays.
I got a lot of very useful information regarding the fuel mixes being used by other club members during my last visit. Once the weather cools a bit (37c at present) I'll be keen to try out the new found info.
JIm
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Post by David on Dec 28, 2019 9:43:39 GMT
Can't agree more Jim. If this was a solo hobby I don't think I'd be doing it. Being able to see everyone regularly is a real morale boost.
When Barry says 'my club track', it really is - he started the club!
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Post by Jim on Dec 28, 2019 11:05:35 GMT
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Post by mugbuilder on Dec 31, 2019 23:23:13 GMT
My latest project. It is another NSW '24' class 2-6-0. This one was being built by a fellow club member to my drawings. Unfortunately he passed away about mid 2019. He had completed the chassis to the running on air stage and was very excited about the prospect of having his own engine. I decided to purchase the unfinished engine and finish it off myself. It had a completed tender that was the product of another member who had also passed on. The workmanship was very good and only required a bit of tweaking here and there to bring it up to scratch. I have done everything above the running boards and hope to have the job complete about the middle of the new year.
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Post by mugbuilder on Dec 31, 2019 23:46:18 GMT
Some of oue model engineering friends find it difficult to comprehend that there are a lot of engines world wide that have some flangeless wheels. All of the NSW Standard goods 2-8-0s ended up with the middle two sets of driving wheels with no flanges. The pictures are of 5154 showing this. There is no problem with running expect when the front driving wheels derail for any reason. Then there is a major derailment as the following wheels have no where to go.
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Post by mugbuilder on Dec 31, 2019 23:48:17 GMT
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Post by steamer5 on Jan 1, 2020 1:33:55 GMT
Hi Barry, What a lovely tribute to a couple of passed members. And on top of that a great looking loco!
Cheers Kerrin
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mbrown
Elder Statesman
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Post by mbrown on Jan 1, 2020 10:24:46 GMT
My Burma Mines loco has no flanges on the central coupled wheels. I hadn't thought of the problem if the front coupled wheels derail, but I guess it's no worse than having an 0-4-0.
I do like those low-slung 2-6-0s from NSW and your models are superb.
Malcolm
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dscott
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Post by dscott on Jan 2, 2020 2:09:29 GMT
The NSW 24 is a pretty locomotive and what a tribute to her builders.
My current three were other peoples projects and on some you can tell where one finished and the others took over and gave up! The Simplex turned out to be a superb Boiler cheap for the price but everything bar the wheels and axleboxes will make it into the authentic Scrap Wagon. You try getting authentic 5 inch gauge scrap!
Fancy it being too hot to work in the Workshop!!! Yes we get 3 days like that. Lily and I keep the door closed all seasons as it either gets too COLD or Too hot.
David and Lily.
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Post by mugbuilder on Jan 2, 2020 5:38:22 GMT
Thanks for the kind remarks fellas. So much of Australia is on fire at the moment. The heat and total lack of rain is making life difficult. working in the workshop is not pleasant at the moment as I am making two 24 class boilers. I use a big thunder and lightning propane burnner to pre heat the job and then light the oxy propane torch to finish. It really heats up the shed. Why is it that boiler work always seems to come in the summer? The average summer temp. in Orange was 26Deg. but has risen sharply over the last 2 years and we are down 16 inches in our annual rainfall. Barry.
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Post by David on Jan 2, 2020 11:02:57 GMT
Summer is certainly boiler making season. You helped a lot with mine two summers ago, now you're doing two, father-in-law is doing his, at least one other club member is making one! We can only hope it makes the heating process more efficient.
Malcolm & David, you can build a NSW mogul in the guise of a MSWJR loco - they had two of what we called the 25 class which were so close to a 24 class I mistook one for the other when I first saw it. They passed into GWR ownership who completely ruined the look of them (IMO). The excellent MSWJR loco book has good drawings of it.
Weatherzone says December last year had an average temperature 5deg C higher than usual from the previous 20 years.
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Post by mugbuilder on Jan 5, 2020 0:28:59 GMT
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stevep
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Post by stevep on Jan 5, 2020 10:17:07 GMT
Interesting sequence of assembly Barry.
I presume you solder the tubes into the firebox before assembly into the outer wrapper. Can you explain further as to how you address the silver soldering of the side and crown stays once the firebox is closed in?
I like the idea of soldering the side sections of the foundation ring on to the firebox before putting the assembly inside the outer wrapper.
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Post by mugbuilder on Jan 7, 2020 0:35:46 GMT
Interesting sequence of assembly Barry. I presume you solder the tubes into the firebox before assembly into the outer wrapper. Can you explain further as to how you address the silver soldering of the side and crown stays once the firebox is closed in? I like the idea of soldering the side sections of the foundation ring on to the firebox before putting the assembly inside the outer wrapper. The next job is to work out the stay arrangement and drill them 1/4". To do this I will fit the inner firebox into the outer wrapper and hold it with a few screws. Then I will remove the inner firebox and solder in the tubes. Next the complete inner will be slid into the outer shell after fluxing it well and put some copper rivets into the screw holes. The smokebox tube plate will be fitted, fluxed and the whole thing silver soldered together before the flux dries. After pickling the stays will be cut at least 3/16" longer than the length required. This is to allow the torch flame to be consentrated on the end of the stay as it takes more heating than the surrounding plate and ensuring good penetration of the spelter. Each 1/4" stay is first placed in the lathe chuck and revolved while lightly tapping the end with an 8 ounce hammer to raise a shallow head on it. This then will stop the stay from falling through the hole while soldering. Most of these heads are fitted on the inside of the firebox and the extra length cut off and finished afterwards. I don't try to fit the stays all at once but do it in two or three stages. I have been doing it this way for quite a few years and find it gives good results.
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Post by Jim on Jan 7, 2020 1:19:54 GMT
39C is far too hot for me Barry.
Out in the workshop where it was over 40C the Britannia was hot to touch so I retreated to a comfy chair and a cold beer beside the fan.
Jim
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Post by mugbuilder on Jan 7, 2020 5:30:34 GMT
39C is far too hot for me Barry.
Out in the workshop where it was over 40C the Britannia was hot to touch so I retreated to a comfy chair and a cold beer beside the fan.
Jim
A bit cooler today Jim. Soldered the tubes into both fireboxes today. Sitting by the fan now with a cool drink. Barry
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Post by mugbuilder on Jan 10, 2020 23:13:42 GMT
The 24 class boilers are progressing.5" 2.5mm diameter barrel and all other plates 10 gauge [.128"]. Stays will be 1/4" diameter. 100psi.
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