Bench Grinder Advice

[mr swarf]

I am looking at getting a new 6 inch bench grinder. Does any one have any recommendations as they all look the same under different brands.
It will be used for grinding HSS tools & blanks. Is it best to go for a white wheel for HSS?

Paul

[92220]

Hi Paul.

For grinding HSS you need the aluminium oxide wheels (grey). The white wheels are for ordinary mild steel, and are much too soft for use with HSS.

I've had an 8" Clarke bench grinder from Machine Mart for some years now and it's still good, though I need to buy some new wheels....but that's not through any fault with the grinder. Unfortunately no wheel will be ideal for HSS and mild steel. Wheels arn't that expensive so it is possible to swap wheels for different jobs. If you do go down that route, always store usable grinding wheels on there sides, not standing up on edge. Any dampness is then evenly distributed around the wheel, not down at a point on one edge, that will throw the balance out when it is revolving at high speed.

Bob.

[goldstar31]

Oct 27, 2019 13:49:09 GMT 92220 said:

Hi Paul.

For grinding HSS you need the aluminium oxide wheels (grey). The white wheels are for ordinary mild steel, and are much too soft for use with HSS.


Bob.

I disagree! By all rough out with a 30 grit wheel but for average tool grinding a 60 grit white or pink wheel should do most prior to honing.

The average 'El Cheapo' 6" Double enders need throwing the wheels away and getting something decent as above. Again, I would change the rests which are notoriously flinsy.

Quite a number of workers now are replacing their wheels with diamond ones of CBN ones. I've got a white grit and a diamond one on my Deckel clone, but using a fine diamond one on my old Kennet but sticking with my white wheels on both my Stent and my Quorn.

Perhaps reading Gadgetbuilder.com might whet your appetite - at least to begin with

Cheers

Norman

[92220]

Hi Norman.

I use a white wheel on my surface grinder, and always have, for grinding mild steel. I have tried it for tool steel but it didn't like it. I did try a grey wheel on mild steel and it was useless. It clogged very quickly. My bench grinder has industrial grade grey wheels after I chucked the originals after only a couple of weeks from new. I buy my Norton Abrasives wheels from Abtec the industrial wheels supplier. I certainly agree with you about the flimsy tool rests. I think a lot of it is how they are used. Everyone has their own way of doing things and it doesn't always match other peoples ways, but both end up doing the same job....just differently.

Bob.

[goldstar31]

Thanks Bob

The trouble for most is not using the right bond of abrasives. I got into similar 'dilemas' until I bought a very old and battered Clarkson Mark 1 grinder- with no accesories but for £100 I wasn't getting excited.
I got the handbook probably from the 'net and went out and bought the Recommended wheels and revolutionised things.

If you look at the average grinder which comes up for sale, there is usually a heap of stones of varying specifications. Which bears out my rather ecessive number of machines.some I made, some I bought- cheep cheep.

What is interesting now is the new version of the Quorn from Hemingwaykits. Like the Clarkson their drawings etc list recommended wheels but only touch on diamond and CBN stuff.
Clearly the old books have become obsolete or obsolescent as things like diamond wheels and diamoond pastes are now available and relatively. One hopes that our OP pursues the topic but remembers that small supermarket specials leave a lot to be desired.

Fine for garden gate engineering but woefully hopeless otherwise

Norman

[goldstar31]

For Bob
Extreme old age, I'm afraid but I did note that you had a surface grinder and with a change of stone, you could have quite a sophisticated tool and cutter grinder too. I'd suggested Gadgetbuilder.com and forgot that Mr Moran describes the use and construction of the Derek Brookes grinder which appears in Model Engineers Workshop vols 16 and 17.
The Brookes designe has what is essentially a flat topped version of Prof Chaddock's Quorn tool holder. Indeed, the new Mk3 one looks even more exotic but the Brooks is certainly worth a look at.


I hope that our OP ( and you) will forgive me-- wandering a bit- to sharpen a bit!

Norman

[rrmrd66]

Hi Paul

You get what you pay for! What is your budget?

I have a Creusen HP7200 8" grinder. It purrs like a Rolls. Cost from Axminster Tool, 2 years ago, £234. I believe they are made in Holland.

I also use of a 6" Sealey in a full size steam engine shop. Cost about £122. I have seen one listed at £95! How cheap do you want to go?

I know which I would vote for. There is no comparison.

Good luck anyway.

Cheers

Malcolm

[goldstar31]

'There is hardly anything in the world that some man cannot make a little worse and sell a little cheaper and the people that consider price only are this man's lawful gain'

John Ruskin

[goldstar31]

I've just got a parcel containing almost all the castings for a Quorn tool and cutter grinder.
The missing ones can be fabricated to the Mark2 or even the Mark3 drawings. I've the latter!
Apart from the 3 pgms bars, the rest is from my steel collection- read junk/scrap box.

The cost so far is £72 including postage. I have the plans etc for the Mk3 at about £60 whilst the total kit including the plans etc must be about £600.

Merely keeping dementia at bay for the present.

Winter should be busy

Norman

[goldstar31]

I've sort of unearthed my old Mk1 Quorn T&C grinder from the depths -- and it still works.
The new Mark 3 seems to have lots of dividing and graduating plus new tool holding square lathe bits in round collets.
Maybe this should be transferred to another section!!!!!!

Norman

[mr swarf]

Thanks for the replys all. The only problem with my existing grinder is the wheels are very rounded and glazed. It was dad's so it's seen many years use.
Could they be dressed back or is dressing just for a light clean up. If so which dressing tool is best and any tips.
Paul