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Post by ilvaporista on Jan 4, 2020 10:19:01 GMT
I have begun to commission my Deckel FP 1 clone. This is a lovely machine and although it cost a small fortune (well by my standards...) I am really pleased with it and all the accessories.
However hard I try I can't get the 4MT milling cutter chuck out of the spindle. Before I do some serious damage does anyone have one of these machines, or the clones, and a manual with a cross-section of the vertical spindle? The drawbar turns freely but will not come out of the spindle. It's almost like the taper is screwed in to the spindle.
The horizontal arrangement is just a simple 4MT which makes me wonder. I hope that the vertical one has not welded itself together!
Up until now I have not needed to use anything else other than simple straight shank end mills but the time is coming for an operation with the boring head. In the worst case I'll make a straight shank for the boring head but I would like to have the possibility to use other 4MT tooling as well.
Searching the internet I have not found details of the vertical head but have a great library of other information about the mill. Mine is a Dipalo DP1 made in Italy under licence from Deckel.
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Post by simplyloco on Jan 4, 2020 11:02:24 GMT
snip However hard I try I can't get the 4MT milling cutter chuck out of the spindle. Before I do some serious damage does anyone have one of these machines, or the clones, and a manual with a cross-section of the vertical spindle? The drawbar turns freely but will not come out of the spindle. It's almost like the taper is screwed in to the spindle. snip I made a U shaped wedge to fit between the MT shank shoulder and the end of the FB2 quill. A sharp whack on the wedge at the same time as on the drawbar and out it came! Good luck John
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Post by gwr1509 on Jan 4, 2020 18:04:29 GMT
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Post by ilvaporista on Jan 4, 2020 19:37:02 GMT
Many thanks Helmut. The pictures are great and my German will improve a lot!!!
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Post by rogsteam1959 on Jan 4, 2020 21:25:11 GMT
To avoid the chuck is stuck that hard put it out after you worked with that machine. If it runs long time and the head gets warm the chuck gets pulled in and after cooling it’s very difficult to get out.
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Post by ettingtonliam on Jan 4, 2020 22:51:36 GMT
I've had success before with the U shaped wedge between the taper shank shoulder and the end of the quill. A pair of them is best, driven in from opposite sides to avoid any bending effect, though thats more likely with a 2MT than a 4MT, I'd say. Wind the table up close with a thick wooden plank on top. When these things let go, it happens suddenly! A couple of wedges and a big taper shank landing on your feet hurts, believe me!
If the wedges themselves don't do the trick on their own , it might be necessary to hit the end of the drawbar as well. Try a series of rapid taps if one good belt dose not do it. Eventually it will come out, probably when you are least expecting it.
You used to be able to buy these wedges in Halfords, called balljoint wedges for extracting car steering joints, but I had to do quite a bit of angle grinder work on mine to get a nice slim taper.
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Post by ilvaporista on Jan 5, 2020 6:27:25 GMT
To avoid the chuck is stuck that hard put it out after you worked with that machine. If it runs long time and the head gets warm the chuck gets pulled in and after cooling it’s very difficult to get out. Yes I tend to remove tooling after use. In this case I bought the mill in this condition.
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Post by ilvaporista on Jan 5, 2020 6:30:46 GMT
I roughed out two wedges last night. I probably won't get to finish them for a while as we have a bank holiday tomorrow and today I have been volunteered to work on the house...
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jackrae
Elder Statesman
 
Posts: 1,335
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Post by jackrae on Jan 5, 2020 8:55:53 GMT
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Post by 92220 on Jan 5, 2020 9:36:44 GMT
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Post by coniston on Jan 5, 2020 22:41:10 GMT
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