3 1/2 Juliet 2 - with Baker valve Gear

[timb]

3 1/2 Juliet 2 with Baker gear

In response to requests and on the understanding that many enjoy to read build logs, and as my Lamb build is currently on hold, I offer a 3 1/2 Juliet 2 with Baker gear.  I have posted some photos on the 'What I have done today' thread but will recap with progress so far.

I had these castings under the bench for some time having cut out the frames and fitted the horns some years ago.  Last year (or it might have been late 2019) I cut and fitted the buffer beams to assemble the frames, which are now complete with buffers and hooks .

Mid year I completed the pump and stay along with the pump eccentric and a second eccentric for the lubricator. 

I decided to go for steel axleboxes with oilite bushes.  The cast bronze stick that came with the castings must have been for a different loco as it was no way the right size.  Unfortunately I have no photos of these, so you will have to make do with a closeup of the eccentrics fitted and some wheels.

The first test of accuracy comes with the coupling rods and I am pleased to say that they were fitted with no binding around september time last year (2020).

Cylinders next, and although I managed to get the steam chests done, I was mostly away with work from late October to early December and was planning in getting the cylinders machined over Xmas, unfortunately I spent the time in hospital and had to delay further work until late January where I got the cylinders bored and to shape then completed after recovery from an operation in Fabruary.

The cylinders were a real pain as they had not been parted from the sprue properly at the casting stage so were undersize for some of the more cosmetic dimensions.  The steam chests were the worst so I have elected to make some covers later to tidy them up a bit (this is the second time I have suffered from poor castings being bought second hand - see my Lamb log for more!).

It can be seen that I has to solder some brass sheet to the outer edge of one of the cylinder blocks to be able to machine it to correct size.  A lot of faffing about I could have done without.

The cylinders are near enough done now, I have fitted 'o' rings to the pistons and used them to seal the piston and valve rods. The pistons are still a little tight  at each end of travel but I am sure they will 'ride up with wear'.

The cylinders could be bolted to the frames now but I need to think about fitting a mechanism for the cylinder drains which are catered for viz holes in the cylinders, but not yet designed.  LBSC shows the holes drawn for the drain cocks in the cylinders, but does not mention any actuating mechanism or assembly in either 'words or music'!  Any brackets for an actuating rod would need to be fitted behind the cylinder as it is mounted flush with the bottom of the frame.

I have also made some bits as I took the fancy, some of the the gear plates were done just before Xmas and more recently the connecting rods.

That about brings us up to date. 

The lubricator tank fits under the front buffer and would be awkward to fit after the cylinders and steam pipes, so that is what I will do next I think.  Now that this is a thread I will try to get more 'in action' machining setups photographed instead of just completed items hopefully this will stop people getting bored.

Thanks for looking in.

Tim

[mbrown]

Some very nice work indeed!

Malcolm

[GWR 101]

Tim, great work looking very craftsman like. Ah the lubricator fitted mine in one of the side tanks which I had modified. Keep up the excellent work. Regards Paul

[timb]

Malcolm, Paul, thank you very much.

I am just following the drawings, I think the real skill is to create an accurate model from the real thing, creating your own drawings along the way. Hopefully I will be able to move up to this level when I get a build or two under my belt.

Tim

[smallbrother]

Looks even better all in a dedicated thread.

Pete.

[coniston]

Nice job Tim, glad you could make good the poor cylinder castings. I would follow GWR 101 and put the lubricator somewhere it can be got at reasonably easily, I can't remember if on Juliet there is enough room on the running board in front one of the tanks but that would be a possible place, driven off the outside valve gear or crosshead? anyway you're doing great and love the separate build thread

Chris D

[timb]

Thank you Pete and Chris! I will try to keep it from being boring as much as I can!

Tim

[timb]

I have been messing about with guide bars for a while so only had chance to get the tank made.

Not having much luck with bending sheet to size, I tried the method suggested by The Barlow Works viz a 90 degree cutter to form a Vee prior to bending the tank sides up.

A suitable piece of 20g brass was marked up and squared in the mill, clamped to keep it as flat as possible.



I used the DRO to get accurate centres for milling the grooves, cutting them about 22 thou deep leaving 10 thou or so for the bends.

Once milled, I cut out the rectangle and cleaned up.



I had to run a file down the vee's to clean up the edges a bit, the cutter was carbide and tends to pick up on the brass. I then annealed the strip prior to bending, just taking it to a redish glow then leaving to cool by itself before cleaning it up.

Before bending to shape I decided to fit a bar to one side to allow bolting to the buffer from below. This should allow better access and means I can rivet a corresponding fixture to the buffer bar rather than have countersunk screws showing as per drawing. Also If I need to move the lubricator as suggested I will not have any holes to fill.

The bar was cut from 1/8 square brass and furnished with holes.

This photo shows the reverse side of the lube tank in the flat, you can see where the vee grooves have distorted the metal.



The bar was rivetted on with three 1/16 copper rivets and the tank (easily) bent to shape in my hand, it was so soft I had to be careful rivetting the bar to the side to prevent distortion.



I soldered the bar and sides together, holding to shape with some stainless wire. A bit of solder in each corner makes this box extremley solid.



I then cut out a base and soldered the lot together. This was in the citric acid for an hour or so before a bit of a clean with some wet and dry.



Although not perfect its definitely the best box I have made to date - thanks for the tip Mike at Barlow Works!

Thanks for looking in!

Tim

[timb]

Lubricator then....

This is mainly turning and milling with a few tricky bits thrown in. the main stand is from brass and is milled and drilled to size and shape. the only interesting operation is for the counterbore to take the spring which holds the cylinder in contact with the port face. This used a pin drill made from silver steel.

Drill in action..

Showing the pin..


I will not bore you with endless pictures of milling and drilling, however I did use Rogers 'bit on a stick' method for creating the piston rod end which is annoyingly small.

After facing, centering, drilling and tapping in the lathe the piston was screwed home using the tailstock chuck to ensure concentricity.  The rod was then fitted to a square ER collet block was used to get both sides to size and parallel around the centre.

The rod length to the hole centre is critical so this was measured after fitting the piston (rod).

This was then drilled and the sides finished to size.

The rounding off was done by hand.



The cylinder itself was next and as my 3/32 reamer always cuts oversize I thought I would make a 'D' bit from the silversteel I made the piston from.
Although not to Rogers standard, it certainly did the job.



The finished piston and 'D' bit.



The cylinder is held to the port face with a 26g spring. I wound this up in no time using my spring winding tool in the lathe.

Just starting off....

Spring finished.

After a bit of assembly this is where we are now.



Thanks for looking in!

Tim

[smallbrother]

Very neat.

Pete.

[don9f]

Yes, I like that spring winder!

Cheers Don

[timb]

There are lots of 'fiddly bits' to complette the lubricator, it is no wonder many buy them complete.  The ratchet and pawl are next and I elected to use the bit on a stick technique rather than the usual cut from steel strip and file.

Putting some steel rod in the milling vice ensuring it was square.

I drilled the pivot hole and the centre of the scallop to be removed, this to clear the centre of the end mill. I used an end mill to reduce the chatter, it having four teeth instead of two.  It worked quite well.

I had to beef up the clamps to mill the slot, nibbling a bit at a time.

Then over to the vice for a bit of filing to final shape.

This was parted off to length in the lathe.  The point is sharp and at the right angle to suit the teeth in the ratchet wheel which is what I was after, a lot more accurate than I would have got with a file.

The same technique used for the ratchet but this time the rod was thicker so I could use a Vee block to hold it more securely.

.

I lined things up to see where the holes needed to go.

The ratchet wheel was made last year using a fly cutter, I have enough length of material for about 6 more left.  The holes were drilled and tapped into the body 8BA so at least two threads!

I made a shaft for the pawl from brass and nutted this at the back.  This would give the pawl a brass bearing surface.

The lever was filed up from some old strip material I had, the holes drilled accurately first.

I made the pivot hole lager than drawing, again to allow a brass bearing surface to be introduced.  This in the form of a knurled nut so the lubricator can be operated easily by hand if required.  A couple of springs and bolts and we are ready for assembly.  The pawl and ratchet were case hardened, the ratchet wheel had been done earlier.

And put together.

A quick test and oil is being pumped, next the clack valve.  As you can see I have already turned the body as it forms the fixing to the tank for the stand.  The screwed part for a gland nut was made and a suitable locating hole milled in the side of the body.  These were silver soldered together.

The clack is a ball with a spring pushing it home.

Another test and we are still delivering oil!

On to the home straight now just a lid to go.  I used the same method as for forming the tank sides milling a 'v' groove to the required size (thanks again Barlow Works!).

Filed to shape, annealed then bent and silver soldered.

The completed Lubricator.

Pleased to get this done it was an at times annoying little project!

I suppose the next thing is to fit this and the cylinders to the chassis. I will need to think of the best way to do this.  I should be able to position the tapped holes accurately in the cylinders using the mill but I think I will measure and line up first then spot through.

Any and all suggestions welcome as always!

Thanks for looking in.

Tim

[smallbrother]

Looks great but as you say, lots of bits and I think I will buy one when I get to that stage.

Pete.

[chester]

Be careful which you buy Pete mine came in a bag of small bits i/e self assembly

[timb]

Mar 23, 2021 8:50:30 GMT smallbrother said:

Looks great but as you say, lots of bits and I think I will buy one when I get to that stage.

Pete.

Now I have looked they are about £80 for a 1" square one, probably worth it for the time spent, still it kept me out of trouble for a while!

Tim